first colt, whats best?
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Tommygunn
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I think the 51 Navy would be a good one to start with. Either that or a Remington. My first was a .44 Remington 1858.
Get used to working with a gun that's easy to work with. The .31 's are cute, but can be a challenge because of their small size. If you want a 31, the Colt is a larger one than the Remmies and easier to work with.
Pietta and Uberti both make good Colt copies; the Pietta will be less $$.
I have found recent Piettas have a real good color case hardening, while it has always been a challenge to find a Uberti with one; but Uberti's are often better timed, and overall fitting is sometimes better. Some people say the steel in the Ubertis is harder and they take longer to wear.
Either way it's hard to go wrong.
Good luck.
Get used to working with a gun that's easy to work with. The .31 's are cute, but can be a challenge because of their small size. If you want a 31, the Colt is a larger one than the Remmies and easier to work with.
Pietta and Uberti both make good Colt copies; the Pietta will be less $$.
I have found recent Piettas have a real good color case hardening, while it has always been a challenge to find a Uberti with one; but Uberti's are often better timed, and overall fitting is sometimes better. Some people say the steel in the Ubertis is harder and they take longer to wear.
Either way it's hard to go wrong.
Good luck.
1KPerDay
Member
I disagree that the Remmies look better... the colt army is probably the more graceful handgun every made, imo, with the possible exception of the pocket police. 
I've got a Pietta '51 Navy in .36 that I love. Points naturally, is as accurate as I could want, and just plain feels good. The only problem with it is that it likes .380 balls and I've only found .375s locally.
I wouldn't hesitate to start with an 1851.
I wouldn't hesitate to start with an 1851.
Yep - I agree. I meant that they look better designed by those who fail to know much about black powder residue and percussion cap fragments. Poor choice of word on my part, I was commenting on Tommygunn's recommending a Remington.
1849 Pocket is cute but too tiny in my hands small lead balls are harder to load IMHO its neat but after the novelty wears off does not get much range time.
The 1851 has the best balance especially if cut to 5 inches of barrel length
The 1860 Army the best punch for its size and weight
The 1847 Colt Walker is way too front heavy for me and has the annoying habit of having the loading lever drop and dangle when being fired.
Either an 1851 Navy or 1860 .44 would be my choice in the Colts but if other options were on the table I really like the design and feel of the 1858 Remington it has a solid top strap and can be fast to reload with a couple spare cylinders
For pure fun if cost is not a factor the Lemat reproduction is the most unique design.
Hope this helps.
The 1851 has the best balance especially if cut to 5 inches of barrel length
The 1860 Army the best punch for its size and weight
The 1847 Colt Walker is way too front heavy for me and has the annoying habit of having the loading lever drop and dangle when being fired.
Either an 1851 Navy or 1860 .44 would be my choice in the Colts but if other options were on the table I really like the design and feel of the 1858 Remington it has a solid top strap and can be fast to reload with a couple spare cylinders
For pure fun if cost is not a factor the Lemat reproduction is the most unique design.
Hope this helps.
O.S.O.K.
Member
For your first one
I would recommend the 1858 Remington - Pietta, Uberti - your pick.
They are strong, accurate and easy to take-down (no knocking the key/wedge out like on a Colt).
Further, you may want to go with the target model which has adjustable sights - but do keep in mind that the Uberti standard model has a dovetailed front sight which allows for adjusting windage and you can file the rear notch deeper or the front sight down a bit to adjust elevation too.
I love my 58 but I also love my Colt repros too - Dragoon & 1860.
I would recommend the 1858 Remington - Pietta, Uberti - your pick.
They are strong, accurate and easy to take-down (no knocking the key/wedge out like on a Colt).
Further, you may want to go with the target model which has adjustable sights - but do keep in mind that the Uberti standard model has a dovetailed front sight which allows for adjusting windage and you can file the rear notch deeper or the front sight down a bit to adjust elevation too.
I love my 58 but I also love my Colt repros too - Dragoon & 1860.
Rangr44
Member
If you want "easy", and like the Remington-type/design, then it'll be hard to beat a stainless steel Ruger Old Army .45 - Heck, You can even simply throw 'er in the dishwasher for cleaning, once you remove the grips!
Get something, though, that will later take a cartridge conversion cylinder.
Get something, though, that will later take a cartridge conversion cylinder.
I'd recommend the 51, the 62 navy or the 60 army pretty much in that order. they are often easier to find. ( recently, some sources have been back staging the other revovlers and making them special order. With my revolvers, once I've fitted hand assemblies, they will interchange perfectly and most other lock parts are identical. These revolvers are easier to shoot accurately than a lot of modern handguns in spite of the rather informal sighting arrangement.
In the past, availability of replacement parts has been hit or miss and mainly miss. You had a better chance of finding Navy/Army parts than any of the others Currently, parts are more metallurgically sound and have good service life but you do have replace the occasional broken trigger /bolt spring and hand assembly or spring. The key replacement parts are readily available for all of the Colt type replicas from VTI or Cimarron and a few other sources.
In the past, availability of replacement parts has been hit or miss and mainly miss. You had a better chance of finding Navy/Army parts than any of the others Currently, parts are more metallurgically sound and have good service life but you do have replace the occasional broken trigger /bolt spring and hand assembly or spring. The key replacement parts are readily available for all of the Colt type replicas from VTI or Cimarron and a few other sources.
1KPerDay
Member
Ah... gotcha.
Bad Flynch
Member
From my limited experience with 3 Colt Armies, 3 Colt Navies, a '62 Police, a Ruger, and a Remington that a buddy shot.
All cap-and-ball revolvers cap foul to a certain extent, but the small frame guns handle the spent caps the least well of any of them. It is just a consequence of mechanical leverage and clearance. The bigger the frame, the less trouble with this aspect. My 1862 Police is fun to shoot, but it can be a pain on a bad day, too.
A good, standard-sized frame is very nice shooting. Among the best of any of them is the Ruger Old Army. This is a big revolver, with a bunch of surplus metal and extra strength--and they shoot very well, indeed.
The main thing is that you jump in with both feet and get thoroughly baptized as soon as possible, having as much fun as you can stand in the process.
All cap-and-ball revolvers cap foul to a certain extent, but the small frame guns handle the spent caps the least well of any of them. It is just a consequence of mechanical leverage and clearance. The bigger the frame, the less trouble with this aspect. My 1862 Police is fun to shoot, but it can be a pain on a bad day, too.
A good, standard-sized frame is very nice shooting. Among the best of any of them is the Ruger Old Army. This is a big revolver, with a bunch of surplus metal and extra strength--and they shoot very well, indeed.
The main thing is that you jump in with both feet and get thoroughly baptized as soon as possible, having as much fun as you can stand in the process.
O.S.O.K.
Member
first cap and ball
I would not recommend the Ruger for a first cap and ball unless you've got money to burn - they are excellent, non-period-correct revolvers that are built like a tank, and they are very expensive in relation to other cap and balls.
You can literally own three of the less expensive Italian models for the price of one Ruger.
Given that we are shooting black powder or substitute, the pressures are low and there's really no need or benefit to going with the Ruger for a first purchase.
If you really like the first one, then by all means, getcha a Ruger
OAN, mec, what kind of cylinder is that on your 1860?
I would not recommend the Ruger for a first cap and ball unless you've got money to burn - they are excellent, non-period-correct revolvers that are built like a tank, and they are very expensive in relation to other cap and balls.
You can literally own three of the less expensive Italian models for the price of one Ruger.
Given that we are shooting black powder or substitute, the pressures are low and there's really no need or benefit to going with the Ruger for a first purchase.
If you really like the first one, then by all means, getcha a Ruger
OAN, mec, what kind of cylinder is that on your 1860?
heres the ones that I like and need a good comparison to go along with everyones advice so far.
1851 "confederate navy" brass frame 44
1851 navy, 36 steel frame
58 rem 5 1/2" barrel 44
1851 Navy U.S. Marshall in 44 (pocket colt or not?)
1860 army
61 navy
1862 army police, 36
1849 pocket
Just what are the cons for each one? I understand the issue with short loading levers, but am wondering on the accuracy angle of it all.
The parts kits that cabellas sells, How well do they interchange with what comes in your gun from the factory? Is it just a matter of heavy filling or just "open revolver and insert replacement kit parts" as cabellas seems to suggest?
1851 "confederate navy" brass frame 44
1851 navy, 36 steel frame
58 rem 5 1/2" barrel 44
1851 Navy U.S. Marshall in 44 (pocket colt or not?)
1860 army
61 navy
1862 army police, 36
1849 pocket
Just what are the cons for each one? I understand the issue with short loading levers, but am wondering on the accuracy angle of it all.
The parts kits that cabellas sells, How well do they interchange with what comes in your gun from the factory? Is it just a matter of heavy filling or just "open revolver and insert replacement kit parts" as cabellas seems to suggest?
Franco2shoot
Member
My vote
Since I live in No. Va. and there are very few indoor ranges that allow BP I went with the Uberti 1858 Remington and ordered the R&D conversion cylinder. This allowed me to become very familiar with the gun as I could fire .44 Long Colts all day long at a local range (Gilberts - about 5 minutes away). When I would make the trip out to Clarke Bros. (40 minute drive) I would fire several BP cylinder loads then switch to the R&D cylinder and use up what ever Long Colt ammo I still had in the box.
At first I was put off by the difficulty in removing the pin, after firing a cylinder of BP, but that's because I didn't realize the impact oil based lube's have. After reading on this board about the need to use non-petrol based lubricants, I mixed up some Olive oil, bore butter, Burt's bees wax and a dab of Crisco in a used Altoids tin. Ample smearing of this mixture has made the process quite enjoyable. I put a small dab on the throat of each cylinder when shooting BP, and pin removal is never all that hard, at worst requiring a little wiggling of the "T" end.
Hopefully, relating my experineces helps you somewhat.
KKKKFL
Since I live in No. Va. and there are very few indoor ranges that allow BP I went with the Uberti 1858 Remington and ordered the R&D conversion cylinder. This allowed me to become very familiar with the gun as I could fire .44 Long Colts all day long at a local range (Gilberts - about 5 minutes away). When I would make the trip out to Clarke Bros. (40 minute drive) I would fire several BP cylinder loads then switch to the R&D cylinder and use up what ever Long Colt ammo I still had in the box.
At first I was put off by the difficulty in removing the pin, after firing a cylinder of BP, but that's because I didn't realize the impact oil based lube's have. After reading on this board about the need to use non-petrol based lubricants, I mixed up some Olive oil, bore butter, Burt's bees wax and a dab of Crisco in a used Altoids tin. Ample smearing of this mixture has made the process quite enjoyable. I put a small dab on the throat of each cylinder when shooting BP, and pin removal is never all that hard, at worst requiring a little wiggling of the "T" end.
Hopefully, relating my experineces helps you somewhat.
KKKKFL
DixieTexian
Member
Stay away from brass framed colts.
J.T. Gerrity
Member
To each their own. I started shooting BP over twenty years ago with a Pietta brass-framed .44 cal '51, and still shoot it today. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend a brass-framed Colt as a starter pistol; they're cheaper, look great, and, since you use a lighter charge, are great for getting used to BP shooting. As for those who keep suggesting Remingtons, I now have seven Colt-style Pistols, and wouldn't trade a single one of them for a Remington (I had a Remmie once but never shot it , so I gave it away). If you want a Colt, get a Colt.
That being said, I'd get a '51 Navy, .36 or .44, brass or steel, and you won't be sorry. They became famous for being natural "pointers", and do fit well in your hand; they become an extension of your arm very naturally. And they just look so cool! I mean, could Wild Bill have been wrong? I think not
That being said, I'd get a '51 Navy, .36 or .44, brass or steel, and you won't be sorry. They became famous for being natural "pointers", and do fit well in your hand; they become an extension of your arm very naturally. And they just look so cool! I mean, could Wild Bill have been wrong? I think not
Seancass
Member
would anybody say the Walker model is a bad first choice? i want it naturally for the high power. (it can be high powered right?)
The only problems with the walker are the giant size and the lever that drops down when you shoot. I wouldn't pick it for the first revolver but definately wouldn't go too long without one either. I havent done the trick of hooking the retaiining spring/stud to keep the lever up. It probably works fine but I'm reluctant to subject the thing to the full stress of recoil. I tape, rubber band or tie the lever to the barrel after loading.
O.S.O.K. wrote that Rugers are "very expensive in relation to other cap and balls...you can literally own three of the less expensive Italian models for the price of one Ruger."
True but the Ruger will last twenty times as long and give a lot less trouble.
But it is not "period" and sure does look funny at a muzzle loading shoot.
Jim
True but the Ruger will last twenty times as long and give a lot less trouble.
But it is not "period" and sure does look funny at a muzzle loading shoot.
Jim
Just because it's easier to work with big fumbly fingers... literally it's easier to put a bullet in etc, I'd pick the .44 1860 Army over the .36 1851 Navy as a starter, and I have both.
sixgun MAK
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My very first one was a '61 navy, 2nd generation. I also own a '61 Signature Series along with several other models in both lines. I mention the '61 because it is by far my favorite model to shoot. I love the navy grip compared to the army grip. I feel that the 7 1/2" barrel balances perfectly and I like the streamlined look compared to the '51. Also, there is hardly any recoil. A very fun gun to shoot.
However, if I were alive during the mid 1800's and had to choose based on my survival, I would choose the '60 army for the ballistics and ease of carrying and shooting compared to the walker and dragoons.
However, if I were alive during the mid 1800's and had to choose based on my survival, I would choose the '60 army for the ballistics and ease of carrying and shooting compared to the walker and dragoons.
DrLaw
Member
Uberti 1860 Army. No doubt about it. Easy to shoot, easy to load, easy to maintain, easy to clean, easy, easy, easy!!!!
And it shoots great, too!!!
The Doc is out now.
And it shoots great, too!!!
The Doc is out now.
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