First idpa today

[moto_stevo]

I just shot my first IDPA match today. I was using my S&W 915. The whole experience was great. The most fun a guy could have without Zombies.
I did however have trouble with the qualifier section. My pistol's safety is also a decocker, which made every first shot difficult... And hurt my results. For now I will practice those DA shots. I am considering either performance tuning the 915, or buying another pistol for these matches. What are your recommendations?

 

[waktasz]

I've had a couple DA/SA guns. I don't like them so I say get a new gun.

 

[9mmepiphany]

It is cheaper to just learn to use the DA trigger pull. Once learned correctly, you aren't at any disadvantage to other trigger styles...as the trigger stroke occurs before your gun reaches full extension...certainly not in IDPA and especially not in SSP/Production

Take a look at the 2nd link in my signature

 

[jim243]

I find it easier to use the decocker and do a DA pull on the first shot than to try and make sure the safety is off for the first shot.

To each their own.

Good luck and have fun.
Jim

 

[ultradoc]

these are fun shoots. you can learn alot

 

[moto_stevo]

9mmepiphany, I read the article. Thanks for pointing me to it. My understanding is that the holstered gun has to have the safety on. Upon drawing the weapon, I have to flip the button flap on my holster, flip the safety, then acquire the target while pulling the da first shot. If the weapon is decocked do I still have to have the safety on? If not that would certainly speed things up for me on the qualifier

 

[Sam1911]

My understanding is that the holstered gun has to have the safety on. Upon drawing the weapon, I have to flip the button flap on my holster, flip the safety, then acquire the target while pulling the da first shot. If the weapon is decocked do I still have to have the safety on? If not that would certainly speed things up for me on the qualifier

You can start in either safe condition. Either decocked, safety off, or safety on if that's the way you'd normally carry.

Of course if it would "certainly speed things up...on the qualifier" [Classifier] then it will certainly speed things up in "real life" too.

 

[9mmepiphany]

Sam1911 is correct. I usually see folks who shoot their pistols, with a safety/decocker on the slide, with the safety lever up (off) in the holster. I thought having the safety engaged after de-cocking went out back in the 70s before the formation of IDPA

I've shot a Beretta 92 with the safety on in the holster...just to see how it affected first shot speed...and I've done the same with an old H&K P9S. It isn't a huge difference...just takes correct positioning of the strong thumb...but both of these pistols have easy to disengage safeties. The S&W safety is a bit harder to hit (flat) and flip off (stiff)

I am a little curious what a "button flap" is?

Assuming you're not referring to drawing from a flap holster, like the UM-84, are you referring to the rotating hood on a Safariland SLS holster?

 

[moto_stevo]

The button I am referring to is the button on the pistol retention strap on the holster.

 

[Sam1911]

I think he's referring to what we usually call a "thumb-break" type holster. The old style retention set-up.

 

[moto_stevo]

Ultradoc, I learned more in the 27 seconds of the first stage than I could have ever learned at the 'regular' range. I'm really looking forward to next months match

 

[Old Guy]

Use what you have, double action first shot, practice dry fire, till you have a nice smooth release.

Watch all the other shooters, check out the gear used. Have fun, be safe.

As you progress, in fun and skill! Most likely you will try other holsters, pistols.

Welcome to IDPA.

 

[Jeff22]

trigger control

THE CONSTANT TRIGGER CONTACT TECHNIQUE
aka "Catching the Sear" or "Catching the Link"

(works with nearly any self-loading semi-automatic firearm except some DAO designs.)

1. Place your finger on the trigger so that the pad of your finger is in contact with the trigger. With your finger in position on the trigger, there should be some space between your finger and the frame of the weapon. This will allow you to pull the trigger straight to the rear, firing the weapon without disturbing its aim. If your finger is too far through the trigger guard, so that it lies along the frame, or if you have your first joint rather than the pad of your finger on the trigger, pulling the trigger could push or pull the weapon to the side.

2. Using smooth, steady pressure, pull the trigger straight back, letting the weapon fire. Keep your finger in contact with the trigger. Hold the trigger to the rear as the weapon cycles and another round is loaded into the chamber. The recoil may make your arms and hands rise slightly. Get the weapon back on target as soon as possible.

3. Allow the trigger spring to push the trigger—and your finger—forward only as far as needed for the trigger to reset for the next shot. You will feel and hear a click as the trigger resets.

4. Continue the same sequence for subsequent shots.

If you can do this, and avoid "slapping" or "bouncing" the trigger from shot to shot, your groups will tighten up. Many shooters have trouble with the DA/SA transition because they let their finger break contact with the trigger after firing that first double action shot, and as a result they "slap" the trigger to fire the subsequent single action shots, which usually results in shots going low.

It's critical that the gun properly fit your hand. If the grip is too big, and if your trigger finger contacts the side of the frame when you are shooting, you will have trouble getting good control on the trigger and may push or pull shots to one side or the other.

As a practice drill at 5 or 7 or 10 yards, beginning from low ready come up on target, fire one precise shot double action. Hold the trigger to the rear as the gun cycles and then let the trigger out only far enough to reset the sear, (you'll hear and feel a "click") and then press off another shot. Decock if necessary, and then repeat the procedure. With practice, your group size will shrink.

When you can shoot tight groups at 5 yards, move back to 7 yards, and then to 10 yards. When you are consistent shooting tight groups from low ready, then work from the holster, always working to be smooth & accurate rather than fast.

 

[Old Guy]

Well said Jeff.

In teaching the Firearms Instructors of the Quebec, Canada, tactical unit, in their transition from Ruger Revolvers (1987) to the Glock 17, new issue, that trigger reset I considered crucial.

As there were only 6 of them, I went down the line, individually lifted an ear muff, after a single shot, so that on the release, they could hear the "Click" as well as feel it. In no time flat they had mastered NOT, slapping, or bouncing off the trigger.

In using a written lesson plan to teach from, I left this with them to teach from, there were 30 members in the Squad. This was a one day program, 500 rounds each.

 

[moto_stevo]

I will practice da shooting at the range this weekend. Our range is outdoor and will only set targets at 25 yds.... The problem I have( I think) is the 8-10 lbs pull on the da shot. Follow up shots are on target, just not the first one. Which seems to be low and right, like I'm pulling my hand nit just the trigger

 

[9mmepiphany]

Read the 2nd link in my signature.

Since the only DA shot is the first shot, use the motion of pushing the gun out from High Ready/Retention to full extension to coordinate the rearward motion of the trigger...as the gun moves forward, the trigger moves to the rear. Don't try to save trigger travel and then try to catch up by snatching at the trigger at the end of your extension

 

[moto_stevo]

I intend on trying/practicing that at the range tomorrow.

 

[Jed Carter]

You do not need to go to the range to practice drawing, aiming and dry firing. My wife thinks I'm nuts when I practice at home on a carpeted floor, drawing, disengaging the safety, dry firing and tactical reloads, over and over... However any range time is good. If all the advice and practice still leave you wanting a good pistol for IDPA, I use a Glock G34 9mm for SSP and a 9mm STI Trojan 1911 for ESP, both really low recoil, reliable and accurate pistols. Many who compete use their primary carry pistols, so a G19 Glock may be a good choice.

 

[Twmaster]

I hope this is not a dumb question...

I've got a new CZ75 P-07 Duty (9MM). This has the option of either a traditional safety or a decocker. Not both. Personally I prefer the decocker. (Which is the way the CZ ships new)

How does that effect the rules for IDPA as there is no safety to disengage?

Thanks.

 

[waktasz]

If there's a decocker you must use it and fire the first shot double action, whether you're in SSP or ESP.

With the manual safety you can lower the hammer and start hammer down, or shoot it cocked and locked in ESP.