First, Tritronics collars are the way to go because they have the range and they are durable. Don't bother with the cheaper brands found at the pet store...just pay the $300 and get it over with. I read several reviews on those cheaper brands...the ranges were far less than advertised, zaps didn't work and the batteries were garbage. Don't buy twice!
Second, use the collar as a sort of "love tap" to indicate "do it now" when you issue a command. It should be used sparingly.
Beagles have to process and decide to do a command. They want to perform to expectations; they just need some time to make the decision. If your dog performs just as well without the collar as with it, then you're doing it right. If the dog starts to get reluctant when you take him out, then you're zapping too frequently and for trivial reasons.
My dog was almost one year old when I started him on rabbits. It's not a big deal to start late. The key is to make sure the dog will sit/stand, stay, heel and return to you in a reliable way BEFORE starting. That means two fifteen minute sessions per day until he has those skills. This should be started with a leash and finished with the collar. I use the collar's beeper as "Return" frequently...since there's no zap, it's just a remote command.
Once he's good at the basics, put the collar on him and go for a walk. He should behave. Use the beeper to get him to return to you. He should do this reliably...but also let the dog roam. Let him get out 50 yards and beep him back. If you beep for awhile (there's a limit...something like 10 seconds) and the dog doesn't respond, pause, do a short "warning" beep. If his body doesn't start turning toward you (or if he doesn't look at you), then give him a very short level 1 zap. Follow it up with a beep as he returns. Use your voice too (though I recommend a whistle--see
Gun Dog or
Water Dog by Wolters.) Make sure to NOT fall into a pattern (so don't always do the warning beep...use that at the beginning). Otherwise, he'll ignore the beep and continue chowing down on "deer chocolate" until the last warning beep. Ask me how I know
Zap Levels: beagles are wimpy. Level 2 on the Tritronics is pretty strong for regular commands. If the dog verbally yelps and is jumping around, that's probably too much zappage. I've only used Level 3 twice: once to stop a fight and once when Level 2 didn't work. I used Level 4 ONCE to stop a deer chase...that's REALLY important to do since deer will run for miles and you will lose your dog. FYI: Tritronics now makes a GPS unit, but it's expensive. You will need to experiment with your dog to see what level is required to get him to leave the trail...some need more and some need less. Generally, my beagle just needs a level 2 zap to stop chasing a rabbit.
At some point, your dog will find a rabbit. Let him take off after it. Say your verbal hunting command...whatever that is. Let him know that he's doing the right thing. It doesn't take much for a beagle with hunting instinct to fall right into a rabbit chase. After the first few chases, he'll just start barking and singing. Try to do this in a field rather than a woods...you'll feel more comfortable with the dog running a few hundred yards away from you. Remember, the rabbit will circle back.
Books mentioned:
Gun Dog by Richard A. Wolters
Water Dog by Richard A. Wolters
Rabbit Hunting: Secrets of a Master Cottontail Hunter by Dave Fisher
I have used Wolters' training method on every dog I have owned since reading it. It works very well at taming labs, catahoulas (which I thought was impossible) and even beagles. Labs take right to it. Beagles need a bit more patience, but take advantage of the beagles' inherent desire to please and placid nature. Catahoulas...well...sometimes you have to show your teeth after (gently) knocking them down. They'll know who's "boss" after that, though puppies will still destroy the house (how those pictures on the wall were knocked down--I have no idea).
Finally, I really do recommend you take your dog rabbit chasing or hunting with an experienced pack at least once. They need to learn how to be a dog. The dog will run with the pack and just fall right in line. He knows what to do. While he will fool around quite a bit (especially at 1 year of age), he'll get better as he learns the game. My dog came back from that first hunt a much more confident animal (he literally wouldn't step off the path in the woods by himself). He understood that rabbits were the quarry and that he has 100% permission at all times to chase them.
The best thing is that day you forget your Tritronics collar...and the dog performs perfectly with only voice and/or whistle commands.
