Flash hider or muzzle brake?

Flash hider or muzzle brake for factory-threaded barrel?

  • Flash hider

    Votes: 28 41.8%
  • Muzzle brake

    Votes: 27 40.3%
  • Neither. Use thread-protector.

    Votes: 12 17.9%

  • Total voters
    67
  • Poll closed .
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skypirate7

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Apr 7, 2006
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Location
Atlanta, GA
My Savage 10FP-SR in .308 winchester has a factory-threaded barrel. I'm wondering what I should put on it. I'm not really interested in jumping through the hoops needed to get a silencer/suppressor.

I am interested in either a flash hider or a muzzle brake. Do either of these require a gunsmith for installation? From what I've been reading today it's a bit confusing but it seems muzzle brakes require a gunsmith to ensure proper fitting, even you already have a factory-threaded barrel like me.

Also, any particular models you recommend? Links are appreciated. :)
 
I don't think either will really do much other than improve the look. A brake will significantly increase noise level for the shooter, and those around the shooter. But if you want it to look cool, then get the baddest looking attachment you can find.:D
 
Given that the 10FP-SR is intended to be a long distance shooter, I'd opt for a brake to further reduce recoil. Will assist with follow through after the shot.

Maybe one of the JP brakes, or a Miculek brake. You should be able to get the brake properly indexed using crush washers.
 
If you are looking for recoil reduction then a brake will help. There are many styles and designs out there and it isn't really clear which one is the best. There are gill type, multi chamber, radially ported type just to name a few. The first two types will need to be timed to your barrel. Timing can be done with shims or facing the brake or shoulder on your threaded barrel. These types work well and also permit you to shoot prone as the pressure is only ported to the left and right and not downward. Brakes will holes radially all the way around them are effective also but will blow debris around when shot prone.


You mention not wanting to jump through hoops for a suppressor. If you do have an inkling for them it might weigh in on your decision for a brake as the makersall offer quick attach models that will take here suppressor.
BTW it isn't a big deal getting a class III item if your local has provisions to legally own them. For a private buy It's a CLEO signature, a set of finger prints, $200 tax stamp, he cost of the item, a 4473 frm and several months waiting for approval. With a trust you skip he first two steps, no big deal.
AAC, Surefire,Thunderbeast, SRW, Liberty and Gemtech are just a few in the suppressor game.
Supressors are the cat's meow, they reduce the report while also reducing the recoil.... A win win

As far as muzzle brakes go Badger, Holland, KDF, Vias, Gentry make them
 
Thanks a bunch guys. As for the muzzle brakes - can I screw them on my barrel myself or do I need a gunsmith to make sure everything is lined up correctly?
 
Or is this a tedious and pricey endeavor?

Yes it is. Usually 4 to 6 month wait after you have spent your money.

I don't think you will see many people shooting back at you, so a flash suppressor is really a questionable item. however a good muzzle brake, WILL help in keeping your barrel from rising between shots and let you get back on target faster.

Do you need one? Depends on what caliber you are shooting. Generally no you don't. Will one help, maybe, I use a double muzzle brake on most of my non-hunting rifles, even the lowley 22 LR, and yes I feel it does help. You will lose some gases with one, but I am shooting for accuracy and not terminal energy, that is why you will not see one on my hunting rifles.

But that's just one opinion.
Jim
 
Micor Flash Suppressor

Most Flash Hiders are designed to act as a brake as well. Now I'm thinking AR-15 and 10 here mostly but...

...the Micor Flash Suppressor, which they started making in .308, are an astounding product that do not lower accuracy once installed. Muzzle devices typically make rifles a little less accurate -- it is as though these aren't there accuracy-wise but they eliminate flash and reduce climb.
 
I put a brake on my Rem 700 308 and was amazed at the reduction in felt recoil. I wish I hadn't waited a year or three to do it.
 
a .308 needs neither so I voted leave the cap on. Of the other 2, flash hider all the way unless you shoot alone. The recoil of a 308 is reasonable and muzzle brakes can be mighty annoying to other shooters.
 
Linear comp to direct sound/pressure wave down range. Mine use a levang style & Kies Blast Master...

Nick
 
Assuming your muzzle was properly threaded at the factory, you should be able to screw a brake on yourself. Timing of the threads can be fit using shims, jam nuts, or crush washers. Many brake manufacturers supply a crush washer or shim set with the brake.
 
Are linear comps effective? From what I've read, some people think they do little or nothing to reduce muzzle rise.
 
You can't use a supressor for hunting, but I guess you could use it to impress some people.

A 308 Winchester ain't a varmint rifle and doesn't create enough recoil to justify a brake.

Are you going to do a lot of covert night shooting ?

Guess you can tell I voted thread protector.
 
dagger dog said:
You can't use a supressor for hunting, but I guess you could use it to impress some people.

A 308 Winchester ain't a varmint rifle and doesn't create enough recoil to justify a brake.

Are you going to do a lot of covert night shooting ?

Guess you can tell I voted thread protector.

You might want to do some research, doing so you will find that suppressors are perfectly legal to hunt with in many states.

Recoil is a relative thing, folks have different tolerance levels to it. Myself, I like the the fact that I can spot impacts myself will the lack of recoil.

Personally I do quite a bit of night shooting suppressed, the lack of noise doent bring attention to me from neighbors.
The only person I need to impress is myself but I think if you ever tried it you would have a different outlook with suppressors.
 
For me, muzzle brake.
Address recoil or "jump"
Protect the muzzle
Reduce dust-ups (snow?)
Get that pesky guy setting up next to you and continually bugging you to move over a coupla lanes.
 
I voted thread protector.
Me too.

If you have no reason to need a flash hider or muzzle brake??

Don't fix it if it isn't broke.
Cause your ear drums will be broker with either muzzle attachment.

If it shoots good now?
Leave it well enough alone!

Just because it has threads doesn't mean you are required to screw with it.

rc
 
My Savage 10FP-SR in .308 winchester has a factory-threaded barrel. I'm wondering what I should put on it. I'm not really interested in jumping through the hoops needed to get a silencer/suppressor.

I am interested in either a flash hider or a muzzle brake. Do either of these require a gunsmith for installation? From what I've been reading today it's a bit confusing but it seems muzzle brakes require a gunsmith to ensure proper fitting, even you already have a factory-threaded barrel like me.

Also, any particular models you recommend? Links are appreciated. :)

I would put a good muzzle brake on it.
It will reduce the recoil and muzzle jump so that you can spot your own impacts when shooting at steel with dirt behind it.
This is very helpful when shooting at longer distances.

As for recommendations, look at the JP Bennie Coolie, the PRI QC comp or have a brake custom made by Ross Schuler.
Any of these will require shims to index them or have a gunsmith index them with the lathe for the cleanest installation.
If you pulled the barrel off your rifle and sent it to me, I do simple muzzle device indexing for $20 without shims.
If you get shims, you can do the installation yourself.
 
I've got this big ol monster of a muzzle brake on my 308 and my ears are just fine. I wear hearing protection though, YMMV.

StraightJacket.jpg
 
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