This weekend I was shooting my rocklock T/C Hawken and I noticed inconsistencies in the ignition time even though I was priming the pan the same way each time. So I started experimenting with how to fill the pan and I never quite resolved which method results in the shortest ignition time. Each time I was plugging up the touch hole with a paper clip to ensure that it was clear. What do you all think is the definitive way to prime a flintlock?
Flintlock Ignition
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ribbonstone
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Clean pan and flint..."gunk" build up won't help.
Uusually about 1/3 of the pan is filled...but the touch hole has to be near the top level of the pan (and as I don't fill the pan, can be a littel below the upper level and i'll not care).
Prefer 4F..it's not that much aster, but every little bit helps.
Vent plugged...paper clip or the quill of a small feather. Doens't seem to make any differnce what.
Will spend the time to clean more often...not so much that you can't keep ahead of the barrel fouling by occasional swabs, but you can't keep ahead of the breech end fouling with damp patches. If anything, just patching the gun proably pushes more gunk down to the breech end (and the vent) that it removes.
SO...if you can stand being non-tradtional...will occasionlly run a patch doen to the breech and then squirt some solvent (even hot water) into the vent...then drag the now dirty patch out and toss it.
Uusually about 1/3 of the pan is filled...but the touch hole has to be near the top level of the pan (and as I don't fill the pan, can be a littel below the upper level and i'll not care).
Prefer 4F..it's not that much aster, but every little bit helps.
Vent plugged...paper clip or the quill of a small feather. Doens't seem to make any differnce what.
Will spend the time to clean more often...not so much that you can't keep ahead of the barrel fouling by occasional swabs, but you can't keep ahead of the breech end fouling with damp patches. If anything, just patching the gun proably pushes more gunk down to the breech end (and the vent) that it removes.
SO...if you can stand being non-tradtional...will occasionlly run a patch doen to the breech and then squirt some solvent (even hot water) into the vent...then drag the now dirty patch out and toss it.
sundance44s
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sundance44s
Ive got a Thompson flinter too .. only had slow ing untill someone showed me how to load it right for quicker ing. what i learned is keep the primming powder at least 1/8 pf an inch away from the flash hole and don`t puddle or pile it up there eaither ..spread it out in a line down the middle..and it doesn`t take much 2 or 3 grs at best .and don`t pack the ball ontop of the powder ..just seat it and stop there . and ya won`t have to pick the hole every time .
Ive got a Thompson flinter too .. only had slow ing untill someone showed me how to load it right for quicker ing. what i learned is keep the primming powder at least 1/8 pf an inch away from the flash hole and don`t puddle or pile it up there eaither ..spread it out in a line down the middle..and it doesn`t take much 2 or 3 grs at best .and don`t pack the ball ontop of the powder ..just seat it and stop there . and ya won`t have to pick the hole every time .
A vent hole liner that has a funnel shaped countersink inside and outside helps direct the priming particles into the hole and gets the main charge closer to the priming. You can enlarge the hole some too but don't over do it. The centerline of the vent hole should be even with the top plane of the pan.
The flint being knapped well to get a good line of flint on the frizzen helps. Having the flint strike a little low on the frizzen seems to shoot the sparks into the priming powder better than if the flint strikes high on the frizzen.
The flint being knapped well to get a good line of flint on the frizzen helps. Having the flint strike a little low on the frizzen seems to shoot the sparks into the priming powder better than if the flint strikes high on the frizzen.T C Flintlock ignition
I have been shooting blackpowder and building fine quality flint rifles for over 30 years...In general, T C locks dont spark very well. I usaully recomend a replacement lock. There are several available, from log cabin shop for around 100 bucks...This may seem costly, but it will greatly improve ignition problems that you are experiencing. A cone shaped touch hole liner is almost a must, and all of these factors contribute to fast ignition times. I usually use 2-3 gr of 4f priming powder in my locks, and after pouring the powder in the pan, I close the frizzen down and tip the gun to where the lock is facing the ground. By doing this , all the priming powder dams up in the outer portion of the pan and upon ignition the spark shoots straight into the touch hole!
Remember friends, we want our firelocks to go off quickly...no fuses!
I have been shooting blackpowder and building fine quality flint rifles for over 30 years...In general, T C locks dont spark very well. I usaully recomend a replacement lock. There are several available, from log cabin shop for around 100 bucks...This may seem costly, but it will greatly improve ignition problems that you are experiencing. A cone shaped touch hole liner is almost a must, and all of these factors contribute to fast ignition times. I usually use 2-3 gr of 4f priming powder in my locks, and after pouring the powder in the pan, I close the frizzen down and tip the gun to where the lock is facing the ground. By doing this , all the priming powder dams up in the outer portion of the pan and upon ignition the spark shoots straight into the touch hole!
Remember friends, we want our firelocks to go off quickly...no fuses!Normally I wipe the pan and frizzen and flint down with a soft t shirt after each shot. The BP residue is hygroscopic and makes a greasy coating from the humidity in the air.
I also shove a paper clip wire thru the touchhole after tamping the charge down and before putting about a quarter of a pan worth of priming powder and closing frizzen. Finally, tip rifle to right to make priming powder fall against outside of pan. Works just about like a centerfire that way.
I also shove a paper clip wire thru the touchhole after tamping the charge down and before putting about a quarter of a pan worth of priming powder and closing frizzen. Finally, tip rifle to right to make priming powder fall against outside of pan. Works just about like a centerfire that way.
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If you can get a Chamber's White Lightening touchhole for it (if indeed Jim makes one that fits), go with it. It's flared out on the inside to allow more flash through.
Also, tests conducted at Colonial Williamsburg shows that larger grain powder in the pan (2F or 3F) catches the sparks better than 4F. They've photographed sparks showering down and even bouncing back up and out of the pan. The bouncing up & out is less frequent with the larger grain powder.
Also, tests conducted at Colonial Williamsburg shows that larger grain powder in the pan (2F or 3F) catches the sparks better than 4F. They've photographed sparks showering down and even bouncing back up and out of the pan. The bouncing up & out is less frequent with the larger grain powder.
Darth Ruger
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Last time I called Chambers to inquire about their touch hole liners, they told me they don't sell them separately, only as part of their kits (although this was over a year ago). Has that changed? I'd like to find a replacement for my Pedersoli.
I never heard about these tests. Can you post a link to it?
I would have to say that cut german agate has produced the hottest spark shower in my locks, with a close second to english flint. If everything is with in reason with a firelock, the agate or flint acually shaves hot slivers which the lay in the pan glowing for a small fraction of time...which is good on days when dampness can affect ignition time. I also would agree that 2 or 3f is acceptable for priming and that the amount and location are more critical. A touch hole liner is almost a must, but one must remember that the hole's location is also critical.
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