I think that when you get down to 3fg and 4fg, our senses aren't going to tell the difference. 4fg vs. 2fg...maybe. Possibly. And, ignition time can vary from shot to shot, from clean to dirty gun, etc., regardless. I think I can tell the difference between 4fg and 1fg, because that's a bigger spread.
I have gone to 4fg for all my revolvers, so if I have a revolver on me, I also have a flask of 4fg, so that's just a handy way to prime. And the only reason to prime with 4fg. But with both rifle and musket I always carry paper cartridges for things like chasing wounded bears around in the brush, (been there done that) and in that case I'm going to prime from the cartridge, British style.
Yes, the red klinkers. From what I understand, those result due to specific temps, humidity, and phase of the moon or something. Yep I've seen those in the bore on rare occasions, and certainly one could fall back down into the breech when re-loading, and clog the vent. But again, with coarse powder it would be apparent by looking closely at the vent.Every once in a while, I will see a reddish-brown "klinker" in the touch hole, which I assume is poorly-burned powder or some related kind of trash. If I try to shoot the gun in that condition, it often won't work. So when I see it, I dig it out or shift it around so that fresh powder appears, and that always allows the gun to go off. I suspect those little klinkers are responsible for at least some of the flintlock's reputation for unreliability.
Tl;dr: I think big touch holes are a very good idea.
The struggle is real....the struggle is real.
No, as long as one has good follow-through, it doesn't matter. Fast ignition is "nice", and something to strive for, but those last three micro seconds won't make or break the shot. (other than super-competitive target shooting I suppose) (or if one is a flincher) Reliability is more importanter.
Follow through is everything.
Close enough.
I've had my can for a decade at least. At three grains or so per shot, it lasts a while...
I agree completely. That's why I no longer bother with it on things like Kiblers. But for guns which I've "fixed" as much as I can but are still imperfect, Null B is the difference between a toy and a tool.
Rumor has it that it is the leftover "fines" from production. At any rate, it is extremely fine - almost dusty - untreated powder. No difference, chemically, from the regular stuff, but no graphite or other burn deterents/regulators, so it burns easily and quickly. The only real downside is that it sucks up humidity like no one's business, and on a rainy day can turn into black mud that won't burn in a furnace.
Pretty good read.
