Floorplan re: home defense

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-eaux-

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Granted, this may a bit broad/abstract, but if you were to plan a floorplan of a home you were going to build, how would you factor in the possibility of HD?
Not necessarily asking for literal floorplans, though they'd be quite welome, moreso asking what structural, building material, layout, etc would factor in to your plans to build your own home if HD were a strong factor in your planning.
 
Most important in my mind:

Points of entry far from bedrooms
Bedrooms defensible from a common point (say, they have a common hallway).

I hate the idea of being on a different floor or side of the house from the kids, even though that has its benefits :)

There are 100 other ones, but those seem the most important to me.
 
Points of entry, common areas would be high on my list of considerations too. Thanks for the input. Looking forward to more.
 
Consider a choke point for all your bedrooms. In my house it is a set of stairs that leads to the upper floor. this allows me to move into a position and just sit there. It also leads straight the main door so If someone is trying to break in I have that covered too.
 
Having your own egress route is just as important as keeping entry points far from bedrooms and choke points such as hallways.

I would have all my bedrooms branch off of a common hallway (fatal funnel). My room would be closest to the entrance of the hall (with a vantage view point of the front and back doors of the floor plan) and the children would be at the rear of the hall. Then I would have an exit that leaves the home at the rear end of the hall as well, for the family to escape from, kinda like a third back door that was inconspicuous to the would-be intruder from the outside. That way you could provide cover fire while your family goes ito a retreat behind you. If I had unlimited funds I would build all of the walls with a 3/8" layer of armored steel behind each sheet of drywall, and instead of filling the walls with insulation I would fill them with sand or concrete.

You asked:D:D:D
 
Col Cooper recommended a U-shaped villa style home with a courtyard that would allow for defense and observation from the second floor. His model also accounted for wide observation and fields of fire from the ends of the "U.". The design maximized early warning of trouble and allowed for effective defense from just about anywhere to threats outside or on their way in; that is, from one end of the house you knew what was coming a long way off, and combined with dogs or a security system the defense could be turned inward. Read more in Jeff Cooper's To Ride, Shoot Straight, and Speak The Truth.
 
I am sure the architect wasn't thinking of HD when designing my house, but it's pretty nice. I work at home and my office is on the second floor in what was supposed to be a game room. The way it is situated, I have a clear field of fire for the front door and back door as well as the stairway the leads to the children's bedroom on the second floor. I have immediate access to a Beretta CX4 9mm carbine with 40 rounds of ammunition in two magazines and four more 17-round magazines for either the CX4 or PX4 pistol.

The master bedroom is on the first floor but you have to go down a narrow hallway with a sharp turn before reaching it and meeting the second armed member of the household with her Browning automatic with two loaded spare magazines. There are land lines and cell phones in both locations.

The only change I would make is adding some reinforcement to certain walls to make what is now concealment into actual cover and reinforcing one room to be a "safe" room.
 
Any defense can be overcome, it just takes numbers. Underground escape routes would be a consideration. A panic room with gun ports. External security cameras and perimeter alarms are also a good option. A recent home invasion in Az was thwarted because the home owner saw the intruders, as they pulled up outside the house, and he was able to see, and hear, their intentions.
 
High windows. Most houses have ground floor windows that are at waist height. When the windows are located at least 6 ft off the ground, breaching the home becomes more of a challenge, and defense can focus on doorways.

Inside the home, regarding floorplan, I'd say the most important factor is the owner's knowledge of the layout's strengths and weaknesses. There has been discussion of "choke points" above, but these can work equally well to the attacker's advantage. It all depends on who gets to them first.

Talking about a defensive floorplan is, to my mind, like talking about the design of your "dummy wallet." If you're carrying around a wallet to be handed over to robbers, then you have conceded the game in advance. All effort should be on the prevention of unauthorized entry. Once they're inside, it's down to a matter of seconds only.

If your tactical planning involves shootouts inside your home, then you are thinking wrong. The inside of your home is not a freefire zone where you plan to be standing in one area, pumping away with the shotgun, whilst the attackers are befuddled by the clever design of your stairwell or somesuch. Although some do get lucky in this regard.

Rather, most accounts involve running, hand-to-hand fighting and life-or-death struggles over possession of the firearm. It seems like what really matters most is being able to get to a firearm quickly and bring it into use. They'll be right behind you, if they're already inside. If they're outside and attempting entry, then you can barricade, defend the entryway, etc. So a strongly defended exterior is really 99 percent of the game.
 
Some good ideas here, but I'll add one more in the design/architecture stage of planning.

A small hidden room on each floor that can be converted into a safe room with a hidden entry. It's important to get this in the design stages, because I've actually seen hidden rooms that were obvious because of the floorplan.

And the hidden rooms should of course be built with reinforced walls, floors, and maybe ceilings.

Az
 
Do not assume that an invasion will occur when you are in, or in such a manner that you can get into, the bedroom.
 
I had it in mind when I designed mine. The bedrooms are upstairs with the master the first BR on the landing at the top. The exterior doors are steel for fiberglass, the door framing is doubled and the hardware is all mounted with long deck screws. Windows are mostly well off the ground except in the back. The central alarm system can be controlled from either upstairs or down and there are lights downstairs that can be turned off or on from upstairs.

You don't want to have a firefight in your home so you want to prevent people from getting in if you're buttoned up. You'd prefer to keep them from getting to the house at all. Long driveways that make them take time to approach. Open fields of view. Thorn bushes for ornamentals.
 
I am a self employed remodeling contractor. Between jobs, bids, giving advice on future projects. I may be in a 150 homes or more a year. I have noticed that I would say a good 80% of home I am in this would be a nightmare to defend. Front entry way centered on home with master bedroom located to the rear of the home often times to the left. The kids bedrooms towards the front of the home running to the back of the home on the right. Ranch style homes are very popular in this area. So now if you here a bump in the night the living room slash entrance point, the kitchen, eating areas, study and so on is located center of the home. So if a BG breaks into the home and you get up to investigate gun in had. The kids bedrooms are in a direct line of fire from your position. Not a good thing. In this day and age and really for the last 20-30 years homes are not built like they used to be. Everyone wants a million dollar home but wants to pay $50,000 to get it. Yes I know thats a stretch but you should see some of these cheap suckers. So if you think a pistol bullet won't penatrate a sheetrock wall you are nuts.
So in my home all of the bedrooms are at one end of the house with entrance one the opposite side of the house. I put up security lighting and have a back up generator that kicks on automatically if the power is cut. If I loose power it takes maybe 5-6 seconds for power to be restored. Generator runs off of my propane tank. Our driveway has a motion sensor and the drive is really very long. Over a 1/4 mile from road back to the house. If someone drives in it rings my doorbell and turns on a lamp in the living room. Once they get to the house they will be greeted by my two labs. don't think either one would bite unless they saw someone trying to hurt my wife or kids. My next house will be a two story with a open staircase. I will also have a landing overlooking the front door of the home on at least two sides if not three. Main entrance way would have a 15-16 foot ceiling which is a waste of space and not good for heating and cooling but I am willing to pay a little more in a/c for the added security.
 
I agree with several others that your number one priority is to keep them out in the first place.
That means strong doors, strong windows (preferably burglar bars) and strong exterior walls that will stop a bullet.

In my situation, I live on a mostly open hill out in the country (as in 3 miles to the pavement). You can see someone coming from at least 300 yards on all sides.

I would imagine an "inside vs outside" confrontation being more probable than having to deal with someone already in my house.

When I build my new house the exterior walls will be of log construction. A virtual 360 degree bullet barrier. What could be better to stop a bullet than 10" thick solid wooden walls?
 
I'm house shopping right now and the defensibility of the house is way down on my list. Livability is at the top of the list, mainly because the probability I'll live in the house for years to come is awfully close to one and the probability I'll have to defend it is awfully close to zero.

If there is a painfully obvious flaw in design or materials, I would certainly take that under consideration, but for the most part, I'm more interested in how the floorplan fits my lifestyle. Likewise, if we build, it will be the same deal.
 
My home has the small slit windows downstairs. They are about chest level and to small to do much with in terms of being a point of interest to burglars or invaders. My entrance doors are all steel with reinforced hardware and frame. My home is a split level with the entire living area being upstairs, the only way to the living area from the front is up a flight of stairs that puts you directly at the begining of the hallway that leads to all bedrooms (fatal funnel). The rear entrance comes off the dinning room and leads to the same spot in the hallway as the front entrance. If I have time to get to my bedroom I will hunker down and wait for them to come to me. I won't be going looking for anybody unless I'm left with no other option.

Another thing to think about is shooting lanes. If a bullet overpenetrates and exits your house are you putting your neighbors at risk? Luckily, the way my home was set up I have no neighbors that could be in harms way unless the threat decided to climb a 25 ft ladder to get into one of the upstairs windows on the side of the house the bedrooms are on.
 
Posted by Jorg: I'm house shopping right now and the defensibility of the house is way down on my list. Livability is at the top of the list, mainly because the probability I'll live in the house for years to come is awfully close to one and the probability I'll have to defend it is awfully close to zero.
My thoughts exactly.

I would, however, take into account egress in the event of a fire. Current house is not great; we once decided not to move into a second-floor apartment because there was only one way out.
 
I would chose a house more for livability than defensive soundness. Of course I also have motion sensing lights over the walkway to the font door. I have a security light supplied by the power company in my back yard. At night there is only one place in my yard that is not covered by a light. The only windows at chest height have something in front of them that makes noise and will slow down an intruder.

I am also planning on purchasing a couple of door alarm security bars. They wedge between the handle and floor making it harder to kick open a door. They also have an alarm that sounds if somebody turns the handle or kicks the door.

It is simple to make your house more secure and less inviting to theives. It is always best to avoid letting them in to start with. However, if they do get in you want it to take long enough that you can be ready.
 
In regards to building materials, and assuming the fact that you want your house to actually look like a house and not a fort, here's an idea of what's available out there:


Bullet-resistant fiberglas panels for interior or exterior walls:
http://www.armorcore.com/

Steel security mesh to keep badguys from punching holes through walls:
http://www.amico-securityproducts.com/mesh.htm

3M Security window film:
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...cts/Residential/Safety-Security_Window_Films/

Bullet-proof doors:
http://www.cecodoor.com/default.aspx?Doc=products/ArmorShield Door and Frame System.htm

Bullet-proof windows:
http://www.usbulletproofing.com/USBPProductwindow.htm

If your building code will allow it, consider building 2"x6" exterior walls (instead of the usual 2"x4"), sheathing both sides with plywood, and then filling the void with hi-strength concrete.


All it takes is lots and lots of cash!

Also consider a CCW permit, if available, so that some bad guy doesn't just wait until you come out of the house, put a gun to your head, and then tell you to let him in.
 
Concrete poured in between studs??!??!?? In most parts of the country, I can't think of a better way to promote termite growth and rot. Then what's holding your slabs of concrete?

ICFs or standard formed concrete walls make sense, but that's just wrong.

ETA: OP is in Louisiana, one area where moisture mitigation is critical. Don't even think about concrete in direct contact with untreated lumber.
 
First post!

I grew up overseas. I lived in some dangerous countries and in one case, chile, was school friends with the US Ambassadors son.

His house wa sinteresting. Obviously a gate house. Several car bombs detonated in front in the 80's. Winding driveway with plexiglass booths on each corner. I dont know if they were bullet proof. The living quarters were a separate wing. Common hallway. Huge copper door that was shut at night. In the middle of the hallway a trap door with one tunnel to the garage, where there were armored cars and another tunnel out to the golf club behind.

I never made it to the end so I dont know wether were talking hogans heroes or anything. :)

The garage had an armored van and an old lincoln with windows you couldnt roll down they were so thick.. Along the sides, military crates of munitions of some kind.
 
Vauban Star. The only way to go...:D

200px-StarFortDeadZones.png


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Star_fort
 
There's no reason that you can't combine "livable" with security.

Keep the BGs out by designing the first floor in such a way that it's very difficult to break in. A basement that lifts the first floor 4 ft off the ground does a pretty good job of keeping people form accessing the windows easily and funnels people to the doors. Frame construction isn't common in Europe and if avoided here can make for much greater security. Doubling the structure around doors and setting locking hardware deeply makes it difficult to break open doors. Good locksets from a locksmith and not a big box home supply retailer, alarm system for fire and entry. Plenty of things can be done to make a place more livable and very secure.
 
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