Forehand Arms pistol

[DaveJ]

I recently came across a Forehand Arms double action pistol and have some questions.

Does anyone know how to remove the cylinder? There is a rod that spins with the cylinder and right underneath that on the frame in front of the cylinder is a small lever. It moves and I can feel it doing something to that rod but I can't make anything move to take they cylinder out of the frame.

The gun is marked double action but there is no caliber designation on the frame anywhere. It looks like .38 but shorter than the .380 auto cartridges I have. It's too big for .32. Anybody know what it might be.
The frame shows a patent date of 1891. It has the F&W grips in perfect condition. Most of the nickel has worn off the gun, it has an octagonal barrell.

I'm seriously thinking of firing it if it checks out to be safe. Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks,
DaveJ

 

[Jim K]

A little background, from Flayderman. Sullivan Forehand and Henry Wadsworth both worked for Allen and Wheelock and both married daughters of Ethan Allen. They took over the company when Allen died in 1872 and renamed it Forehand and Wadsworth. When Wadsworth died in 1890, the company became Forehand Arms Co. and continued that name until it was bought by Hopkins and Allen in 1902. Your gun was probably made just about the time of the transition in 1890 since it has the Forehand Arms name with the old F&W grips.

The cylinder should turn on the base pin, not with it, so it seems in your gun the base pin might be rusted or crudded to the cylinder. I suggest you remove the grips (carefully, they will be brittle) and soak the gun in brake free or some other good penetrant (I use G96 Gun Treatment for that sort of thing). Then use soft vise jaws (or a couple of pennies) to clamp the front of the base pin and try to turn the cylinder in the normal direction. If that doesn't work, you might try cocking the hammer and looking to see the back end of the base pin. If you can, clamp the gun in soft vise jaws (leather or a cloth), and either tie the basepin catch down or have someone hold it. Then use a pin punch to try driving the base pin out from the rear. Don't get carried away, the rule is easy does it.

If those ideas don't work, get back at me and I will have other approaches you might try.

Jim

 

[anapex]

Not sure if it helps you with your pistol but my father in law has a top break Forehand and Wadsworth. To remove the cylinder on that I just had to open it up and then push a small button (on the left hand side) in near the front of the cylinder. After the button was in I could just pull the cylinder off. May or may not help but just in case, there it is.

 

[DaveJ]

Thanks folks,
I have the gun saturated with wd-40 for now and I'll get some good solvent tomorrow when I go to work.

I see there are some parts available on the net so maybe even if something is damaged beyond repair it can still be made usable. It's not a gun I would shoot a lot but to know it actually works is a good thing. I'll keep going with it and if I need any help I'll be sure to ask.

Thanks,
DaveJ

 

[BEARMAN]

It may be chambered for a .38 rimfire cartridge, check to see where the firing pin hits.

 

[Jim K]

Hi, Davej and Bearman,

F&W did make revolvers in .32, .38 and .41 rimfire, but that gun was a bit late for the rimfire era. It is probably chambered for a center fire cartridge, either .38 Short Colt or .38 S&W. The only .38 round I know of that would be shorter than the .380 ACP would be the old .38 Short Colt, Short Case, which was not made until 1919 or so. My guess would be the .38 S&W.

Jim

 

[DaveJ]

Thanks for the information. I'm going out later this afternoon to see if the cylinder has broken free from the pin yet. I think it is cernterfire just by where the firing pin hits the chamber. I see the Cheaper than Dirt has 38 S&W for a bit over $16/box of 50. Any cheaper out there that anyone knows of?

Thanks,
DaveJ

 

[Jim K]

Not off hand, but remember that shipping costs really add up with ammo. I doubt you are going to fire that gun very much so it might be easier and about as cheap to check the local gun shops. .38 S&W is a pretty common round and most shops carry a couple of boxes.

Jim

 

[DanN]

Forehand Arms Revolver

Dave,
Are you sure that the patent date doesn't say 1881? mine does. I think I have the same gun you described, altough mine does come appart. It belonged to great aunt SAL, and I have her New York City pistol permit frrom 1920 to go along with it. (she was quite a character). I'm not sure if it is standard {S&W} center fire 38 or not. I would like to compare pictures with mine.

my e-mail is : [email protected].

Dan near Baltimore MD....
Nov 24

Happy Thanksgiving to all

 

[DaveJ]

Dan,
You're right, it does say 1881. Soaking it for the last couple weeks made the markings show up a little more clearly. The nickel is pretty much all off so it isn't a pretty gun anymore.

I still am not able to get the cylinder to turn on the pin, I haven't tried to pop it loose from the rear yet. I'll get it eventually.

I'll put the grips back on this weekend and do some scans of it and send them to your e-mail address.

If anyone has any more ideas on what I can do to break it loose please speak up.

Everyone have a safe and happy Thanksgiving.

DaveJ