foul of Uberti cylinder pin

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Franco2shoot

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I know this topic has been discussed in the past, just wondering if anyone has come up with a good solution.

Problem:
The Uberti 1858 Remington cylinder pin fouls when using Pyrodex pellets after just 6 shots. Removing the pin becomes nearly impossible as the blowby of each shot forms a sticky glue on the pin.

I have had little success placing a smidge of paste (comprised of Burts bees wax, olive oil & crisco) both in front of the ball as well as behind. Lubing the pellets has a minor effect. I'm thinking of scratching the surface so that more vegtable oil can cling to the pin, but wonder if this will really help. I can usually get the pin to dislodge by twisting it to break the glue, and maybe a shot of BP cleaner in a small bottle squirted on the pin would be the best solution.

What's the good word?


KKKKFL
 
I use the vegetable spray PAM and it works great. Spray it on the cylinder pin.
 
Moly

based non petro grease over balls , on cylinder pin , I swear by it on the 58 .
Pams for cooking , BUTTER is better ! :D

Das Jaeger
 
I use PAM on my Ruger, my Paterson, and on the Uberti and Pietta Remingtons that I owned at one time. I even use it to lube patches for my Belgian .54 caliber long gun (I can't call it a rifle since it has been smooth bored). I even spray a little bit over the balls in the cylinders - it stays in place much better than Crisco (and doesn't burn off after the first shot).
I spray it down the barrel at the range when the gun needs a little cleaning.

Try it and if it doesn't work, what the heck. The store versions are even cheaper than the original PAM and work as well.
But, I do not use it when cooking eggs - butter is better.
 
I made up a small tin that was a combination of Bore Butter, Burt's bees wax, a little crisco and a dash of olive oil. Dumped all in a shoe shine tin and melted on the stove. Then moved to the freezer where it became a paste.

Now, I smeared this on the pin, and use a dash on the felt pad that covers the Pyrodex pellet, smash down the ball and use another dash on top of the ball. This combination barely works, I can get the pin to wiggle and allow removal of the first cylinder, but after about 4 shots on the second cylinder things start to gum up and slow down and the pin is very hard to budge.

I'll see how well the Pam works and report back.
 
I combine Crisco and, well, nothing, and smear it over the balls. That works pretty well.

After 5 cylinders or so, I wipe off the really nasty crud with a rag.

I've shot about 70 rounds at a session (that's a full flask of P Pyrodex) that way.
 
cylinder pin

Lose the Pyrodex and use the real stuff.

I have 6 revolvers and never had the problem you mention with real black. I load the chambers and then use Blue and Gray brand "Pistol Patch' over the balls in the chambers. Comes in a tube like tub caulk. Even when I use just crisco, I have no problem as you describe.
 
I use SPG lube over the balls and have no problems. Some other folks I know use strainght bore butter on the pin and over the balls.
 
Here's a couple of previous threads that mention:

1. polishing the pin but not "scratching' it.

2. the merits of threading the cylinder pin so that it can hold more lube, but the idea hasn't really been proven to work.

It seems that most folks recommend to simply clean and/or lubricate the pin between loading cylinders.
I would recommend using loose fffg or P powder rather than pellets.
Choosing any other powder to shoot with besides pellets should be one of the first alternatives to try to see that makes any difference. Try either loose APP fffg, 777, Prodex P or real BP, and there's even Black Mag 3.
Anything besides doing that and "you're on your own". :D

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=426337&highlight=remington+cylinder+pin+grooves

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=319111&highlight=remington+cylinder+pin+grooves
 
Last edited:
Now, I smeared this on the pin, and use a dash on the felt pad that covers the Pyrodex pellet, smash down the ball and use another dash on top of the ball. This combination barely works, I can get the pin to wiggle and allow removal of the first cylinder, but after about 4 shots on the second cylinder things start to gum up and slow down and the pin is very hard to budge.
Click to expand...

If you can't get or use Black Powder then jus' get the Pyrodex P ... "P" don't have the glue that packs pellet of powder... I bet you problem goes away. I would not recommend using Pellets in a Revolver more carbon residue, durtier fouling and made for a well the other kind a ML rifles.
I shoot all day long with my Sophia A. Uberti .44 1858 Remington NMA and my Dang I'm broke Lube Pills... 1 on top of fffg Black Powder...
 
In timed fire matches, I take it out every 10 shots and just wipe it with water. Put it back in and put a drop of water on the front and rear and spin.
 
I have made a gas ring bushing and relieved the frame to accept it. It prevents the fouling from getting to the cylinder pin. It is similar to the Ruger Old Army gas ring.

cylindergasring.gif

gasringinframe.gif
 
POST #12 by smoking gun. Throw them pellets away. & never look back. Absolutely what your prob is. I got lazy & tried that crappy pellets. Big waist of my $$. The fouling would be great on your hands if your a pro football wide receiver=STICKEM. & totally dig that gas ring RC FLINT.
Im going to go fire up the 10 inch SOUTH BEND!! Does it just sit loose on the cyl??? Ok i think i got it figured out. You milled out the frame & pressed it into the frame or lock tighted it. Am i right??
I havent got to fire up the old Atlas Horizontal mill in a long time. this is going to be a fun little project.
 
Last edited:
Husker, I made and reamed the hole .374/.375 diameter, .38 deep. I turned the gas ring .375 to press in, and I did locktite it. I finish bored the hole in the bushing after installation to make sure it aligned with the rest of the cylinder's arbor hole. (diameter 7mm or so).

The gas ring protrusion is .140, and matched with a .140 cut on the frame, with the barrel removed for that process. I had to take a pass on the exposed barrel threads with a file, just a hair after reinstallation to clear the gas ring, or you could reduce the gas ring bushing diameter a bit so it doesn't rub.

This does reduce the support of the barrel's forcing cone by the frame in that area, but it is unsupported at the sides as it is, anyway.

Smoking Gun, I can convert yours if you want, email me if you're interested. [email protected]
 
I have only used BP in my Uberti NMAs. They foul faster with 30gr loads than with 20gr loads. I put a drop of olive oil or Ballistol at the front of thecylinder where it rubs on the frame between each shooting stage or cylinder full. I also use automotive grease on the pin after cleaning from a days shooting. The small squeeze bottle of oil keeps the cylinder turning all day.Put the drop on after you have charged the gun hold it upward and jiggle the cylinder to help it flow down onto the pin. Works for me and takes about 5 seconds per gun. My euroarms NMAs will shoot all day. Go figure.
 
Here that boys

Hellgate writes :
I also use automotive grease on the pin after cleaning from a days shooting .

-------------

Now this is from a renowned CASS shooter , knows his stuff , considered a GOD or GURU in the scene .
Now on the otherhand I am a nobody , just another shooter , but I too discovered the automative or aeronautical moly grease for this gun and every other gun I shoot BP with . The stuff works . If you don't belive me , at least listen to Jesus there and try it ! And no , I did not get the idea from him , I tried it myself years ago and found it to be the best . :D

Das Jaeger
 
I keep the cylinder base pin of my Remingtons well lubricated with Ballistol, and they'll keep turning for at least 3 cylinders full before the cylinder starts to drag. However, I get better results if I pull the pin after 2 cylinders, wipe and relube. If I don't do that the pin gets difficult to remove.
 
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