Garand questions

[conhntr]

I finally got a chance to shoot my CMP field grade HRA garand i got last year!

We had a blast and blew a whole can (196rnds) of greek M2 ball! Shooting offhand/kneeling i was really impressed with its accuracy. Definently minute of tennisball out to 50yards.

So my problem was out of the 200 shots fired i had 6 failures ;(. 3 failure to feed partway through the clip wherein a slap on the charging handle put the round in and all good. The bolt was gettin hung up about 1/4 of the way in and the force required to get it to chamber was not much. I didnt think these failures where a huge deal..

However i had 3 failure to extract as well. Fired case stuck and the gun did not cycle. I could pull the charging handle about 1/2" but it would budge past there and required the edge of my tailgate and slamming it pretty hard to get it to cycle!

I detail stripped clened and lubricated the rifle on receipt. The failures where never on first or last round and occured randomly throughout the session.
I guess 97% reliable isnt that bad but would like 100%. Do you think the cheapo ammo is at fault? 50c a round is pretty good especially since it is already in clips i have 3 more cans of it.

now i am looking at one of the cmp "springfield specials" at 995$

 

[rule303]

The Greek M2 is good ammo, I doubt it is at fault. Failure to feed is usually caused by a weak oprod spring. On the rounds that failed to extract, was there any strange marks on the brass? Could be a defect in the chamber, or just built up crud.

 

[Cal-gun Fan]

Does your greek ammo have a lot of corrosion/rust looking crap on the sides of the casing? Mine does, and it has caused several failures to extract. When I sorted the ammo and picked out clean rounds, I didnt get any failures.

 

[velocette]

conhntr;
Greek M2 is good ammo, no problem there. First question, What did you use to lubricate your Garand? Lubriplate white grease I hope in all places as specified by the field manual.
Next, a thorough cleaning of the chamber could help your FTE. Garand tools have a brush specifically for that purpose. If you have not used it, it is possible that some cosmoline or rust or other detritus could be in your chamber.
Next, a thorough cleaning of the bolt to make certain that no 60 year old grease or cosmoline is in it could help. Thorough meaning, at least soaking in mineral spirits for a couple of hours to be certain you've got all old grease etc out, or preferably complete disassembly and cleaning.

The old warhorse is usually very reliable when kept properly lubricated and moderately clean.

Roger

 

[conhntr]

The ammo has some discoloration but is smooth to the touch.
I didnt pickup up the rounds after i got them out i should have looked them over!
I lubed per the manual with brownells grease http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1147/Product/ACTION-LUBE-PLUS-reg-


I think ill go over the chamber i cleaned the barrel but didnt go at the chamber specificaly.
The bolt was filthy cruddy but i got it cleaned up after soaking. I do not have the tool to disassemble it so im not sure what the inside looks like!

 

[Orlando]

Dont need a tool to dissasemble the bolt. Need nothing more than a punch and your fingers. Try a internet search
As suggested I would make sure chamber is clean and dry (use chamber brush)
Also make sure gas screw is "tight"
Make sure rifle is greased at these points
http://www.nicolausassociates.com/PDF/M1GarandRifleGreasePoints.pdf
1/4 inch drive extension and ratchet works well


Also check the Op Rod spring, it should measure between 19 -20 1/4 inches long and be free of kinks or bends
If it is out of spec replace it with a sprng from Orion 7
Stay away from Wolff Op Rod extra power springs as they "can" cause short stroking
Good luck

 

[conhntr]

What are you using the rathcet for the gas block screw?

 

[Orlando]

Just a 1/4 inch drive extension fits perfectly.
I never could get them tight enough with a big bladed screwdriver or the combo tool

 

[Hacker15E]

I'm betting that the chamber needs a really good scrubbing.

A new set of springs all around wouldn't hurt, either.

 

[conhntr]

Im looking at a RM1SASSP vs RM1SPECIAL. 100$ extra for the special which comes with a new barrel and is less "correct" tham the sassp. But this is a shooter and i dont think anything with a new stock is collector piece anyway. Is the extra 100 for the new vs gi barrel worth it?

 

[Orlando]

The RM1SASSP is basically used but "like new" USGI rifle with a commercial stock.
IMO that is the one I would get