Dave McCracken
Moderator In Memoriam
When we shoot, we contact our shotguns at four points.
The shoulder is one.
The head is the second.
And the hands are third and fourth. These not only hold on to the shotgun, but direct it, fire it and absorb some recoil energy. How we do these affects performance and comfort.
When I do the live version of Shotgun 101 amid the noise and distraction of a live range, I tell the newbie to grip moderately tight. When off the range, I tend to go all Zen and say "Hold the shotgun as if it is a small bird you neither wish to hurt nor let go". Either method gets the point across most of the time. No white knuckles and trembling, no grip so loose the shotgun "Gets away".
Now as to where to hold it....
Let's start with the hand used to fire the weapon. Obviously, it needs to be where the trigger finger can reach the trigger. I suggest a beginner first ensure the shotgun is empty, then place the tip of the trigger finger on the trigger. Position the hand to do this comfortably and consistently, and mark it if necessary with a piece of tape. Once you've done this a while, it happens unconsciously.
Now the front hand. Assume a firing position, let go with the front hand as you raise the shotgun to 45 degrees or so, and let it drop back into that front hand. There is probably the best place for you. After a lifetime of handling stuff, our reflexes will find the best point for the weight and balance needed.
The closer to the muzzle the front hand is, the less leverage. This means moving the barrel from here takes a bit more time, but oft can be done more precisely.And the weight feels less, so fatigue is less. One of the reasons smaller people have trouble with the shotgun is their arms may not be long enough to hold up the front end with comfort.
Now a few words about the hardware....
Stocks come in many shapes at the grip, from the straight one so beloved by the Brits to the separate Pistol Grip a la M-16, AAK, etc. Most American shotguns come with a semi pistol grip that's SUPPOSED to fit most folks OK. Surprisingly, it does,with caveats. Smallish folks find the radius a bit too open to really grab while keeping the trigger finger in contact. I've helped a couple Pixies by using a layer of masking tape on the contact surface of the grip, then using electrical tape in multiple layers to build up the grip a bit. Downside is the enlarges the grip, but it has helped a few folks and is instantly reversible if the experiment doesn't work.
Fred Etchen, old time trap Legend, had a grip named after him where the radius was so tight the end pointed back towards the muzzle. Some trap shooters swear by it for control and reducing flinching. My opinion, if it works for you....
Other folks get the middle finger banged on the back of the trigger guard. Oft, this happens in conjunction with heavy loads and a slicker grip surface. Padding the rear of the trigger guard a bit can help, so can a rougher contact surface and lighter loads.
Speaking of same, checkering is the traditional way of roughening the surface and improving the hold. Within sane limits, the rougher the grip texture, the better one can hold it,and the better control and recoil absorbtion.
Cut checkering works best,IMO. Of course,it's the most expensive.The impressed, machine made checkering most of us have does work almost as well. Smooth surfaces are the worst, like found on many single barrels and economy grade doubles and pumps. Checkering gets worn easily, and freshening a pattern can help immensely.
If you don't care what a synthetic stock looks like afterwards, a thin layer of epoxy on a grip with salt or sugar crystals dribbled on helps. Once the epoxy cures, a little water dissolves the crystals and leaves a nubbly surface. A shot of spray paint to match the finish completes the job.
The 3 gun and Practical folks are fond of skateboard tape or the stuff sold for boat ladders. Peel and stick. Some is too rough and abrades skin when used. Go carefully here.
I've also used Emery cloth(Like sandpaper) mounted on double sided tape. Not waterproof, unfortunately.
The shoulder is one.
The head is the second.
And the hands are third and fourth. These not only hold on to the shotgun, but direct it, fire it and absorb some recoil energy. How we do these affects performance and comfort.
When I do the live version of Shotgun 101 amid the noise and distraction of a live range, I tell the newbie to grip moderately tight. When off the range, I tend to go all Zen and say "Hold the shotgun as if it is a small bird you neither wish to hurt nor let go". Either method gets the point across most of the time. No white knuckles and trembling, no grip so loose the shotgun "Gets away".
Now as to where to hold it....
Let's start with the hand used to fire the weapon. Obviously, it needs to be where the trigger finger can reach the trigger. I suggest a beginner first ensure the shotgun is empty, then place the tip of the trigger finger on the trigger. Position the hand to do this comfortably and consistently, and mark it if necessary with a piece of tape. Once you've done this a while, it happens unconsciously.
Now the front hand. Assume a firing position, let go with the front hand as you raise the shotgun to 45 degrees or so, and let it drop back into that front hand. There is probably the best place for you. After a lifetime of handling stuff, our reflexes will find the best point for the weight and balance needed.
The closer to the muzzle the front hand is, the less leverage. This means moving the barrel from here takes a bit more time, but oft can be done more precisely.And the weight feels less, so fatigue is less. One of the reasons smaller people have trouble with the shotgun is their arms may not be long enough to hold up the front end with comfort.
Now a few words about the hardware....
Stocks come in many shapes at the grip, from the straight one so beloved by the Brits to the separate Pistol Grip a la M-16, AAK, etc. Most American shotguns come with a semi pistol grip that's SUPPOSED to fit most folks OK. Surprisingly, it does,with caveats. Smallish folks find the radius a bit too open to really grab while keeping the trigger finger in contact. I've helped a couple Pixies by using a layer of masking tape on the contact surface of the grip, then using electrical tape in multiple layers to build up the grip a bit. Downside is the enlarges the grip, but it has helped a few folks and is instantly reversible if the experiment doesn't work.
Fred Etchen, old time trap Legend, had a grip named after him where the radius was so tight the end pointed back towards the muzzle. Some trap shooters swear by it for control and reducing flinching. My opinion, if it works for you....
Other folks get the middle finger banged on the back of the trigger guard. Oft, this happens in conjunction with heavy loads and a slicker grip surface. Padding the rear of the trigger guard a bit can help, so can a rougher contact surface and lighter loads.
Speaking of same, checkering is the traditional way of roughening the surface and improving the hold. Within sane limits, the rougher the grip texture, the better one can hold it,and the better control and recoil absorbtion.
Cut checkering works best,IMO. Of course,it's the most expensive.The impressed, machine made checkering most of us have does work almost as well. Smooth surfaces are the worst, like found on many single barrels and economy grade doubles and pumps. Checkering gets worn easily, and freshening a pattern can help immensely.
If you don't care what a synthetic stock looks like afterwards, a thin layer of epoxy on a grip with salt or sugar crystals dribbled on helps. Once the epoxy cures, a little water dissolves the crystals and leaves a nubbly surface. A shot of spray paint to match the finish completes the job.
The 3 gun and Practical folks are fond of skateboard tape or the stuff sold for boat ladders. Peel and stick. Some is too rough and abrades skin when used. Go carefully here.
I've also used Emery cloth(Like sandpaper) mounted on double sided tape. Not waterproof, unfortunately.