Getting a Lee Pro 1000; what extras?

[GBTx01]

I am upgrading from my Rockchucker and getting a Lee Pro 1000. I plan on reloading .223, .45acp and 38/357. I am going to buy the press setup for .223. For those using the Pro 1000 what extras would you recommend both as spare parts and for caliber changing? I really appreciate your help. Thanks

Ian

 

[YellowLab]

Best tip is to buy a whole carrier for the PRIMER size change. Evidently swapping the large/small primer mechanisms are a PITA, and swapping the whole carrier is only 1 nut/bolt.

You still swap out the calibures normally when staying with a large primer, but when going from large to small primer (.45ACP to .223) just do the whole carrier.

 

[darwin-t]

A casefeeder if it doesn't come with one. I've heard bad things abot the bullet feeders, but have no experience with it. Get a tube of powdered graphite to lube the "tube" that feeds the primers into the press.

 

[HSMITH]

Ian, please believe me when I say I am not a press snob, but the Pro-1000 isn't much of a press and will be frustrating to use at best. A Loadmaster is a MUCH better press and is only about $75 more. Look on the Lee site for reconditioned presses, great deals can be had.

A Dillon SDB isn't a terrible lot more money than an Loadmaster, and it is a lot more press. Problem with it is Dillon is the only one that makes dies for it....

If you can step up to the $350 range you can get A 550B, as solid as your RCBS and a fantastic value.

Take a good hard look at the Hornady L&L and the RCBS Pro-2000 too, both are quality presses and around the price of a 550B.

I wouldn't have posted this but I have used the Pro-1000 and the Loadmaster. To be able to use them without pulling your hair out you need to be the sort that doesn't mind a little tinkering with it to keep it working right, and have a pretty good mechanical mind.

 

[cherryriver]

I've been reloading for thirty years. I never had a squib in over a hundred thousand rounds. Then I tried a Lee 1000. Two squibs in the first five hundred, plus dozens of unprimed rounds.
I'd give you the Lee but it's already in the landfill.
Get a Dillon. It's cheaper.
Bill

 

[darwin-t]

I agree with HSMITH, if you are going to buy Lee, buy a Loadmaster. 4 dies are better than 3

 

[bfox]

Hi
If you do get the pro 1000 get some extra hex ratchets
part no. 90108 . They do give you an extra one when you buy it though .
Changing primer size from the small for the 223 part no . tr2436
large primer pin and part no . tr2164b large primer trough
You will need shellplate for each caliber .
And Part no. 90667 case collator works great .
It doesn't take long to switch out the primer troughs .
I had the directions here by the computer so thought I'd
throw in the part numbers .

If you do get one make sure primer trough is always full .
Give the primer tray a little smack once in a while to keep
them flowing doesn't hurt .

Good Luck , Bill

 

[YellowLab]

The Pro1000 will do fine with your listed cartridges.

If you have any problems (like squibbs) you probibly didn't do someting right.

I have yet to have any ammo malfunction from my loadmaster (although I have pulled a lot of mistakes due to my error).

For the money its a good value... ask lots of queestions and read the FAQ on the Lee web site.

 

[GBTx01]

I appreciate everyone's thoughts. I went with the 1000 because I didn't figure I needed anything more. All of my big caliber loads are either done in such low numbers or are precision loads that I will continue to do on my Rock Chucker. I always deprime and size as a different step so that I can clean shells and primer pockets in between loading. I thought that the 1000 was simpler and would still fit my needs.

What does the load master give me that the 1000 doesn't other than the extra die? Thanks.

 

[hartzpad]

I'm starting out with a Lee Pro 1000 as well for reloading .40 and 10mm. I assume that both use the same dies and shellplates, right? Is the only difference in the large primer (10mm) vs. small primer (.40)? I just have to buy different primer pins for to switch between 10mm and .40?

Also, does it matter if I go with a .40 press or a 10mm press when I order? I assume that it will cost the same to change between them no matter which Lee Pro 1000 press setup I purchase?

 

[bfox]

Hi
You will have to get a second primer trough .
One for the large and one for the small .
I would get the adjustable charge bar also .
Bill

 

[darwin-t]

If you PRIME separately,too, then the Pro 1000 would be perfect. That's what I do. I put the powder charging die in the front, the bullet seater in the second station and the factory crimp in the third. Using a case feeder I can run them through quickly and effortlessly.

 

[hartzpad]

That is a good idea, I hadn't considered priming separately. With most of the negative remarks about the Lee Pro 1000 being about its primer feeder, it makes sense to primer separately and use the primer station to add the option of another crimping die. The Lee Auto Hand Priming Tool is only $10!

 

[darwin-t]

I use my Lee turret press to prime - I bolt the case feeder tube assembly to my loading bench so that each case is easy to pick up. Lee's new safety priming system is VERY nice for priming. The other 3 stations on my turret hold dies for 38 special. I just take out the auto index rod when priming 9mm.

The hand primer is very nice also. I used to use that while watching TV, your hand will get tired after a while. Think of it as a way to strengthen your grip.

My output has increased lately so I gave up on the hand primer.