Glock 19 slide/barrel/spring on G23 frame?

[1KPerDay]

I (perhaps stupidly) assumed it would just drop on and voila, instant G19. But there's a bit of stickiness/hesitation just as the barrel starts to cam down. It would probably run but it's not as smooth as with the G23 upper.

Ideas? Do I need to change ejectors or anything?

 

[Simmy952]

Should be OK. The 19 and 23 are the same frame. Make sure the spring is installed and centered but everything should be OK.

 

[rjrivero]

The 19 barrel is narrower than the 23. It may fit, but it won't fit flush. That's part of the reason "conversion" barrels are available. The barrel wall is actually thicker.

 

[marv]

I would imagine that the locking block might also be involved in this interchange.

 

[1KPerDay]

The 19 barrel is narrower than the 23. It may fit, but it won't fit flush. That's part of the reason "conversion" barrels are available. The barrel wall is actually thicker.

I'm not changing barrels. I'm aware of the issues using G19 barrels in G23 slides and don't intend to do it. I'm swapping complete uppers.

 

[1KPerDay]

I would imagine that the locking block might also be involved in this interchange.

Don't think so. Midsize Glock 9/40 locking block inserts are identical to my knowledge.

 

[Nathan Detroit]

The 3-pin 19a, 23s, and 32s all use the same locking block. So the locking block should not be causing you a problem. There might be an issue in the very rare event that you have a 2-pin 19, however. The 2-pin uses a different locking block than the 3-pin.

 

[1KPerDay]

No, both are 3-pin gen 3s. Thanks

 

[SuedePflow]

The ejector is the only difference in the lower. I'm not sure how well a .40 ejector works for ejecting 9mm casings. Only one way to find out though. I assume it works just fine though being that people convert G23's to 9mm with a barrel swap all the time and most have positive results.

 

[Glock Doctor]

Ideally, you'll want to use a 9mm ejector - Preferably a #30274. The, 'stickiness' you refer to is probably due to dimensional differences between the 9mm and 40 caliber barrel locking lugs. Some judicious fitting and polishing by A REAL GUNSMITH might get things smoothed out for ya.

 

[hentown]

Ideally, you'll want to use a 9mm ejector - Preferably a #30274. The, 'stickiness' you refer to is probably due to dimensional differences between the 9mm and 40 caliber barrel locking lugs. Some judicious fitting and polishing by A REAL GUNSMITH might get things smoothed out for ya.

Whatever's causing the "stickiness" has nothing to do with the locking lugs and won't require the services of a gunsmith. Someone else already correctly posted that the locking lugs/locking blocks are the same.

It's o.k. to run a .40 ejector with 9mm; not so, the 9mm ejector with the .40 brass.