Glock broken. Need help

[L-2]

Can I swap the extractor from a G19 and use that in my G26?

Generally, yes you can swap extractors. Ensure both extractors are of the LCI (loaded chamber indicator) type.

Older G26 models may have a non-LCI type.

The two different extractors should have different SLBs (spring loaded bearings).

I'm sorry you didn't already do this the last time you were at the range. We all could have narrowed it down to the actual cause by now (hopefully).

I'll ask again, is the EDP installed correctly (in the correct direction)?

When you have both extractors out, it'll be easier to compare if there is any chipping or missing material.

 

[TheProf]

L-2,

I believe that the extractor plunger is loaded correctly. I made sure that I took it out and put it back in the very same way. (And I had never taken it out...prior to the problem occurring last week.)

I ordered a new extractor today. (Factory 9mm extractor with loaded chamber indicator. I am assuming that it should fit my G26 Gen 4....since it looked like they had one standard extractor for all 9mm.

And I ordered a new extractor spring for the extractor plunger. Again, they only had one type of spring for 9mm extractors. Is this correct? Or do I need to
be aware that there are various spring strengths for 9mm Gen 4 G26? Is this what you meant by two different load bearings?

 

[F-111 John]

The extractor plunger spring is the same for all Glocks of all generations except for the pocket Glocks 42 and 43.

The spring loaded bearing is the black plastic piece that you saw on the end of the extractor plunger spring that rests against the slide cover plate. There are two types, a thin faced one for extractors with loaded chamber indicators (LCI), and a thicker one for older non-LCI extractors.

You can (and must) reuse the spring loaded bearing from your old spring when you install the new spring. That way you know you are using the correct spring loaded bearing. (They don't wear out.)

Here are what the two spring loaded bearings look like. Black is for 9mm, white is for .40/.357 Sig, and olive drab is for .45 ACP/10mm;



Are you absolutely certain there is no damage to your extractor? The best way to chip an extractor is to plunk a round into the chamber by hand then drop the slide. Glocks are designed to feed rounds from the magazine only. During the chambering cycle, the rim slides up the breech face and under the extractor claw. The extractor never 'snaps' over the rim.

 

[TheProf]

Would this be an indication of a chipped extractor... (since i do not see any chips visibly)

I discovered after my last range session, that upon cleaning the gun... I noticed that inside the slide, there's what appears to be granules of brass. It's the size of sand particles. But's shiny like brass.

Mind you that prior to shooting, I had cleaned the gun. It was spotless. My shooting range is indoors. So the particles were not due to environmental factors.

The brass granules were of sufficient quantity. As if as someone sprinkled salt on the slide. Would this brass granules be coming from the extractor not interfacing with the spent cartridge?

In all my years of owning glocks, I had never noticed this before.

 

[Steelharp]

I only use Winchester white box (brass) factory ammo

That might be the problem; that's some really, really dirty cheap stuff. I've seen a lot of really filthy customer guns after a couple hundred round session.

 

[F-111 John]

I discovered after my last range session, that upon cleaning the gun... I noticed that inside the slide, there's what appears to be granules of brass. It's the size of sand particles. But's shiny like brass.

If it was on the underside of the slide, that is perfectly normal and is caused by the stripper riding over the brass cases as the slide cycles. (The "brass color" in the following photo is most likely remnants of the factory applied anti-seize compound. This picture was borrowed from the internet.)



Here is a picture of my extractor from my G26 gen 3. The extractor claw shows some wear but no chips. (Edge highlighted by arrow.)

 

[L-2]

Questions have been answered. I look forward to seeing how this problem gets resolved.

I only wish I was with you at the range with a spare 9mm Glock or two and my spare parts. I'd hope with a bit of substitution testing and comparing the problem will get resolved quickly.

 

[TheProf]

Problem Solved!!!

First, I want to thank all those who have responded. You have educated me. (Thank you L-2 and F-111.)

Before the replies... I had no idea about extractors...nor extractor springs..nor extractor plungers, etc.

I completely replaced the extractor and the extractor spring. That seemed to do the trick.



Yes, the original extractor (it was a Gen 4 model) seemed to have minor wear on the tip of the extractor claw.... The corner seemed "slightly rounded off"...but the wear is so minor compared to the new that I was not 100% sure if that was the problem. Nevertheless, I decided to replace it as well.

The "brass granules" that appeared inside the slide was not there today. (And no, it was not the factory lubricant that you see with a brand new glock. I am familiar with that.) These were pieces of shiny brass. As if, if you had a salt shaker of brass particles sprinkled inside the slide.

And these "sprinkles of brass granules" appeared about the same time that I had extractor issues.

So here's my theory: The extractor was not interfacing with the spent brass case. Perhaps the granules where the result of the extractor chipping away at the brass cartridge. And perhaps the spring had something to do with that as well.

Today, with the brand new extractor and extractor spring... I was able to run through 100 problem free rounds of WWB ammo. And some rounds of my carry HST hollow point ammo.

All is well with my Glock.

 

[L-2]

To TheProf, now that you're good at disassembling and reassembling the slide, the next time you shoot, you could substitute in the old extractor and/or the old extractor spring, just to see which part had the most influence on the original problem.

Thanks for the report. Also, I often have bits of brass inside the slide after shooting and it might just depend on what brands of ammo I'm shooting that day.

 

[Steve C]

Your failure is caused by your case seizing in the chamber so tight that it doesn't eject. Its not an extractor problem, the extractor doesn't pull the case from the chamber after discharge, it only pulls the case from the chamber when you hand cycle the action. Under discharge the case normally pushes the slide back as the case is forced out of the chamber by the cartridge pressure. The extractor acts as a pivot for the case pushing it away from the breach and out the ejection port as the ejector gives it a shove.

I have had this condition with my Glock 19 a couple times. With steel case ammo and some +p+ ammo. A friend was having this problem with some Wolf 9mm he was shooting in his S&W 9mm M&Pc.

My solution is to polish and clean the chamber making sure to remove all powder fouling, carbon and any lacquer or polymer case residue from steel case ammo. I use an old brass brush, wrap it with OOO steel wool, chuck it into an electric drill and with some oil run it in and out of the chamber maybe 12 to 20 times at low to medium speed. Then use patch and solvent to clean out any of the small wires from the steel wool or any other residue. This has worked on my guns and others I've recommended it to.

 

[TheProf]

Thanks Steve. I'll include that in my cleaning regimen.... just to make sure.

Could I use a regular brass brush to accomplish the same thing? You mentioned wrapping it with steel wool. Is that to keep the brass brush from making actual contact with the chamber wall?

The reason I'm asking is...that Glock issues out the plastic brush with their pistols. And that makes me wonder if a regular brass brush is harmful to the inner wall of the chamber and barrel.

I use brass brushes on all my other pistols. But for my glock, I only use the plastic brush. Is it ok to use brass brushes on glock barrels and chamber walls?

 

[RecoilRob]

I don't recall you commenting on WHERE the empties that leave the gun are landing. Somewhere there was a fellow who was having problems with 'brass to the face' type things, and he was mucking about with the extractors and springs ect. Tried to suggest that his ejector was more likely the contributing factor but he was stubborn...until he'd exhausted all the extractor options he could find.

When your gun fails to extract...could it acutally be a failure to eject? All the extractor can do is pull the case from the chamber...and if that happens (and as mentioned when firing gas pressures should do most of this for it) the extractor is no longer in the mix unless it's letting the empty drop off of the breechface before it gets back to the ejector.

If your ejection is erratic...you might end up looking at the ejector and especially if you aren't happy with where the empties are flying. The extractor should hold the fired case long enough to reliably strike the ejector...which will result in very consistent ejection pattern. So...if it's still not throwing them in a tight little group on the ground....I'd keep going until it does.

 

[tallpaul]

well I was scared- I thought the problem was it being UGLY... that can't really be fixed- some dress them funny and change colors but UGLY soulless goes deep

all the other stuff can be fixed

BTW I like my UGLY souless tools - they multiply and I do not mind treating them as the souless wonders they are

 

[TheProf]

Recoil Rob...

I don't think it was an issue of failure to eject. The cartridge fired, but the spent casing was left stuck in the chamber....fully inserted in the barrel. I had to pull the spent shell out of the chamber with my fingernail.

Good news though...

But...the problem is fixed.

 

[Zerodefect]

I detail strip and clean the sides on my Glocks and 1911 often. As it doesnt take long, and causes no wear.

Keeping the extractor clean is key.

 

[Steve C]

Could I use a regular brass brush to accomplish the same thing? You mentioned wrapping it with steel wool. Is that to keep the brass brush from making actual contact with the chamber wall?

The 000 steel wool is very fine. I use it because its a little more likely to take of the carbon and other residue. Being that its a very fine wire wool it seems to polish the chamber well although one could use Flitz or other abrasive to do the same thing with a tight fitting patch. My intention is to scrape off any residue without abrading the harder chamber surface.