Glock Cam Surface?
- Thread starter bg226
- Start date
- Status
ny32182
Member
Define cam surface?
The part of the slide where the tip of the connector touches.
ny32182
Member
As far as I know it only touches the bottom forward portion of the striker. I wouldn't really say it needs to be lubed, but I guess I leave a thin coat of CLP there when I'm done cleaning.
voyager4520
Member
This picture shows it(huge picture! may slow down your computer!): http://blog.vec.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Glock-slide.jpg
See the stepped portion of the slide next to the firing pin lug, the area where you see the gold/copper-colored paste, that's the part that pushes the connector inward to allow the trigger to reset.
http://www.homedefenseweapons.net/w...26-Factory-Copper-Colored-Grease-on-Slide.jpg
See the stepped portion of the slide next to the firing pin lug, the area where you see the gold/copper-colored paste, that's the part that pushes the connector inward to allow the trigger to reset.
http://www.homedefenseweapons.net/w...26-Factory-Copper-Colored-Grease-on-Slide.jpg
Voyager, excellent pics.
One picture shows the copper paste bordering the little stepping, but the other shows it covering the step itself. Which one is the right way to do it? And does regular oil work or do I have to buy some of that copper paste?
One picture shows the copper paste bordering the little stepping, but the other shows it covering the step itself. Which one is the right way to do it? And does regular oil work or do I have to buy some of that copper paste?
voyager4520
Member
Regular oil should work fine, I haven't had a problem in a little over 3,000 rounds out of my two Glocks using oil in that area. Grease may be better because it won't run into the firing pin channel.
The area to be lubricated is the side of that step that faces the firing pin lug, and the flat surface between the side of the step and firing pin lug. I painted over one of the pictures from my above post, the red area is the side of the step and the orange area is the flat surface between the side of the step and the firing pin lug.
http://tinypic.com/r/153p3xi/7
I basically lightly oil a q-tip and run it along the side of that step while very lightly pushing down.
The area to be lubricated is the side of that step that faces the firing pin lug, and the flat surface between the side of the step and firing pin lug. I painted over one of the pictures from my above post, the red area is the side of the step and the orange area is the flat surface between the side of the step and the firing pin lug.
http://tinypic.com/r/153p3xi/7
I basically lightly oil a q-tip and run it along the side of that step while very lightly pushing down.
Dan-O
Member
It works just as well bone dry too....don't know why your are fretting over it.
swinokur
Member
Isn't the cam the curved portion of the trigger bar that allowsthe connector to guide the bar to move the cruciform down to allow the firing pin lug to move forward under spring pressure?
Zerodefect
member
The sideways ramp under the slide hits the connector and pushes it back allowing the trigger bar to snap up to a height that allows the trigger bar to catch the striker when the slide closes.
You could call that ramp a cam....I guess. But it's nothing more than a ramp/inclined plane.
Yes, it's better to lube that part as it is a metal part sliding on a coated metal part. The only part that deosn't like oil is the striker. But as long as you remove the striker and clean it from time to time, you can feel free to lube heavy. I use a .22 patch or fuzzy cloth bore brush to clean the striker bore.
You could call that ramp a cam....I guess. But it's nothing more than a ramp/inclined plane.
Yes, it's better to lube that part as it is a metal part sliding on a coated metal part. The only part that deosn't like oil is the striker. But as long as you remove the striker and clean it from time to time, you can feel free to lube heavy. I use a .22 patch or fuzzy cloth bore brush to clean the striker bore.
voyager4520
Member
At 3:25 into this video he shows an important lubrication point, the interface between the connector and trigger bar: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGobEpUO3Uc
You have to be careful not to overlubricate this spot, too much oil in this spot and the oil will pool up around the trigger housing and begin to seep out onto your magazines and seep out of the trigger housing pin hole. Grease would be ideal for this spot because it would last much longer and you wouldn't have to worry so much about overlubricating it.
He even says so in that video, do not overlubricate, small drops of oil or grease in each area is all that's needed.
Here's the latest diagram of lubricating points put out by Glock. They're very conservative in their instructions because they don't want people to overlubricate and get oil into the internal parts of the slide.
http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8631536&postcount=25
But in general, as with any firearm or other machine, lightly lubricating any points where metal parts slide past each other is a good idea(except getting oil into the internal parts of the slide). I run a lightly oiled patch over the areas in the diagram AND: the camming surface of the slide that moves the connector, the firing pin lug and part of the trigger bar that engages the firing pin lug, the arm of the trigger bar that engages the firing pin safety, the front corners of the locking block that jump up into the slide upon recoil and cause slide peening - as well as the corresponding peened spots on the bottom of the slide, the top of the slide lock and in the slide lock groove that engages the barrel lug - as well as the bottom of the forward barrel lug and groove for the slide lock, the base of the metal guide rod on sub-compacts and Gen4's, and finally the top of the slide stop that locks into the notch in the slide as well as that notch in the slide and the area rear of that notch that the slide stop rubs against until it reaches the notch in the slide.
Also, I lube the forward part inside the slide that the top of the barrel's chamber slides across per Glock's instructions, but I also lube the side walls inside the slide that the sides of the barrel's chamber will rub across.
Lube1: http://tinypic.com/r/1z5rvhx/7
Lube2: http://tinypic.com/r/14wgilj/7
Lube3: http://tinypic.com/r/erk0wo/7
Lube4: http://tinypic.com/r/2h7nal4/7
Lube5: http://tinypic.com/r/a4mltt/7
Lube6: http://tinypic.com/r/52cg9w/7
You have to be careful not to overlubricate this spot, too much oil in this spot and the oil will pool up around the trigger housing and begin to seep out onto your magazines and seep out of the trigger housing pin hole. Grease would be ideal for this spot because it would last much longer and you wouldn't have to worry so much about overlubricating it.
He even says so in that video, do not overlubricate, small drops of oil or grease in each area is all that's needed.
Here's the latest diagram of lubricating points put out by Glock. They're very conservative in their instructions because they don't want people to overlubricate and get oil into the internal parts of the slide.
http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8631536&postcount=25
But in general, as with any firearm or other machine, lightly lubricating any points where metal parts slide past each other is a good idea(except getting oil into the internal parts of the slide). I run a lightly oiled patch over the areas in the diagram AND: the camming surface of the slide that moves the connector, the firing pin lug and part of the trigger bar that engages the firing pin lug, the arm of the trigger bar that engages the firing pin safety, the front corners of the locking block that jump up into the slide upon recoil and cause slide peening - as well as the corresponding peened spots on the bottom of the slide, the top of the slide lock and in the slide lock groove that engages the barrel lug - as well as the bottom of the forward barrel lug and groove for the slide lock, the base of the metal guide rod on sub-compacts and Gen4's, and finally the top of the slide stop that locks into the notch in the slide as well as that notch in the slide and the area rear of that notch that the slide stop rubs against until it reaches the notch in the slide.
Also, I lube the forward part inside the slide that the top of the barrel's chamber slides across per Glock's instructions, but I also lube the side walls inside the slide that the sides of the barrel's chamber will rub across.
Lube1: http://tinypic.com/r/1z5rvhx/7
Lube2: http://tinypic.com/r/14wgilj/7
Lube3: http://tinypic.com/r/erk0wo/7
Lube4: http://tinypic.com/r/2h7nal4/7
Lube5: http://tinypic.com/r/a4mltt/7
Lube6: http://tinypic.com/r/52cg9w/7
Last edited:
I clean my Glocks with a completely dry nylon brush to get out the powder. Then put a little oil on the slide rails, a micro drop on the sear/disconnector interface, and then wipe the outer barrel and hood with a patch with a drop of oil on it.
I've never oiled the cam surface, and I don't see any wear on the nickel plating on the tip of the disconnector on any of my Glocks. That's a 5 dollar part and that surface doesn't affect the trigger pull or anything you'd notice, anyway. Not sure why you'd bother lubing it; I've never heard of it wearing out. The sear/disconnector interface is the part that will wear out first.
I've never oiled the cam surface, and I don't see any wear on the nickel plating on the tip of the disconnector on any of my Glocks. That's a 5 dollar part and that surface doesn't affect the trigger pull or anything you'd notice, anyway. Not sure why you'd bother lubing it; I've never heard of it wearing out. The sear/disconnector interface is the part that will wear out first.
Last edited:
- Status
