Glock issue

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Aug 26, 2019
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I have a 3rd Gen Glock 34. Last weekend I picked up a complete Zafirri Precision upper that is RMR cut. I'm always trying to catch up with my failing vision. I mounted a Holosun red dot and went to the range. I had multiple failures where the new round would catch on the ramp. I kept shooting and it got a good bit better. I know the new slide and ported barrel have much tighter tolerances and may just need to work in. I came home and polished the ramp etc.

I hope some body has some guidance. Should I try the factory barrel in the new slide? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
The slide was 500 but it was complete slide, ported barrel, complete upper hardware springs firing pin etc. I can slide on the old upper in seconds. The cost of getting the slide cut was 250-300 and you no longer have a factory slide.
 
The slide was 500 but it was complete slide, ported barrel, complete upper hardware springs firing pin etc. I can slide on the old upper in seconds. The cost of getting the slide cut was 250-300 and you no longer have a factory slide.

Thanks for the info.
 
I would shoot the new equipment a bit more to see if it is just a break in period. As you mentioned the tolerances for the new slide/barrel are much tighter.

If you don't find a good load/bullet for the new equipment I would contact the manufacturer.
 
I will echo what others have said about shooting the pistol more. And use some 124Gr NATO spec ammo. A lot of the 115Gr ammo marketed as training/range use has been on the weak side in the last 2-3 years.

One other thing to check is how the barre fits the slide. You don't want the barrel hood sitting too low or too high in the slide. You want the barrel hood to be flush with the top of the slide or sitting no more than 0.006" below the slide.

It is not uncommon to have to hand fit an aftermarket Glock barrel. Most of the time when fitting is required, it is because the barrel is sitting too low in the slide.
 
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Will try all the suggestions, I'm shooting homemade reloads that are pretty much 124 grn bullets with 4.4 grns of 231, have shot thousands of these and been happy. Will try the factory spring, factory barrel and just let it run in a little. Thanks for all the feedback guys.
 
When I built my Gen 3 Glock 34 using a Lone Wolf upper and a match barrel I had to do a touch of filing on the front and rear of the barrel hood to get a complete lock up.

70E2E291-F36A-4BFA-9959-F69AE45C1CF2.jpeg

I have never had a Glock part not drop in, but some non oem parts may need a touch of fitting TLC to get them to mate up properly. :thumbup:

Let us know how it turns out. :)

Stay safe.
 

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I had multiple failures where the new round would catch on the ramp.
Wait, what? Malfunctions with a Glock?

Sorry, I got nothing. Just had to poke at the "perfection."

On a serious note, I'm not really a Glock guy, but I do know that when one starts putting aftermarket parts on production firearms, the concept of "drop in" is readily disproven.
 
Using too long of screws mounting the optic could cause too but more likely need break in and less power RSA

An optic screw being too long will cause extraction issues since the longer screw will be in contact with the extractor plunger. The OP stated he is having feeding issues where the round nose dives into the feed ramp. His issues will most likely not be causes by an optic screw being too long.

@CharliesHammer You want to top of the barrel hood to be flush or just below the top of the slide (6-8 thousands of an inch)

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Wait, what? Malfunctions with a Glock?

Sorry, I got nothing. Just had to poke at the "perfection."

On a serious note, I'm not really a Glock guy, but I do know that when one starts putting aftermarket parts on production firearms, the concept of "drop in" is readily disproven.

Not a Glock problem. It’s an aftermarket part problem.
So, aftermarket parts are interfering with “Perfection”! :p

With that aside I will also echo keep trying ammo to break it in. It may settle in for you.
 
Never heard of the company.. Their website shows heavily milled slides. Perhaps you need to play with spring weights.
 
When I read about a failure in a Glock , it usually has aftermarket parts added . Probably the quickest thing for you to try and it won’t cost you any money , is your factory barrel . I also agree with ineedmorecowbell’s post .
 
The slide was 500 but it was complete slide, ported barrel, complete upper hardware springs firing pin etc. I can slide on the old upper in seconds. The cost of getting the slide cut was 250-300 and you no longer have a factory slide.
I bought a new Glock 34 Gen 4 for $480. I wouldn’t dream of adding five hundred bucks in unnecessary aftermarket parts…to each his own I guess.
And by the way, an optic cut slide mill on a G34 should cost no more than $75.
https://www.dpcustomworksllc.com/product-page/glock-optic-cut
 
I wouldn’t dream of adding five hundred bucks in unnecessary aftermarket parts

It’s a cheap poly gun. Aftermarket stuff can quickly cost more than the gun it’s self.
I.e. A simple optic and WML far exceed the guns price.

CF994287-550C-49E3-BBC2-5D63E685A973.jpeg




And by the way, an optic cut slide mill on a G34 should cost no more than $75.
Dont forget to add $$$$ for refinishing.
 
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Look for the wear points on your new slide. Odds are they should be pretty obvious by now.
If the aftermarket slide assembly has a thick coating of some kind it may take a few rounds before it "breaks in". Check the barrel fit as described above and pay attention to the rail grooves for unusual wearing of the coating. Be sure to use some lube with these aftermarket parts.
Rack the slide by hand if necessary until the parts "feel" good. You'll need a healthy dose of patience but I suspect with a little effort on your part it'll be worth it in the end. If you don't like racking the slide manually, try using hotter ammo and/or a lighter RSA.
 
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