Going to give a go

Status
Not open for further replies.

BossHogg

Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
689
Location
Arkansas
I think I've gathered enough stuff to start my reloading. I got 100 speer 115 plated 9mm and 100 gold 230 tmf ,don't know brand but was told good for Glock. Universal Clays is my powder . What do y'all think about some loads. I just picked up these at a gunshow so I could get started I know I should buy in volume but I wanted to get going.:)
 
Start with some reloading manuals before you rely on internet load data that isn't from a powder maker or bullet maker

Since you have UNIVERSAL, go to Hodgdon
 
I have found loads online that are 20% over what it would take to blow up many guns, mixed in with perfectly safe loads and looking little different, with the individuals claiming no signs of over pressure. Even if you backed off 10% from the listed load it would still blow up in your face.
Don't believe internet loads until you get a good understanding of what loads are actually reasonable.


So use good reloading data. Don't try to turn a caliber into something it is not because someone else has or claims to have done so.

When a piece of brass looks worn toss it. If you get case head separation it will cost more in repairs or medical bills than you likely ever saved in reloading.

Powder measures work decent for some powders (round) and poorly for others (flakes, rods etc). Don't rely on metering for really potent powders where a slight grain change has significant impact. Such powder measures allow slight variation between rounds, and a perfectly safe load can become unsafe with such potent powders. So really potent powders should be individually weighed (much slower.)

Use powders that are weak enough that it takes a good percentage increase in load to have significant pressure increase.
Powders that fill up most of the case with a normal load also provide additional safety by making it obvious when there is a double charge (it generously overflows.)

Learn to reload with heavier and slower calibers because they are more forgiving in overall bullet weight and powder precision. You wouldn't want to start on something like a .220 Swift or FN 5.7x28 for example because the slightest variation can go from safe to dangerous.

Rework up every load when you get a new batch of the same powder. There is slight variation in powders from the manufacturers, and the exact same powder can be slightly different batch to batch.
Changing primer brands can also result in enough difference in pressure to go from safe to unsafe, so back off and work back up any time you change primers.



You are unlikely to notice much savings in 9mm over commercial purchases, and many (including GLOCK) recommend against reloading unjacketed bullets in a Glock or other polygonal rifled gun because they can have lead build up much faster. Resulting in dangerous pressure increases in a small number of rounds.
If using commercial jacketed rounds, and factoring in the cost of reloading equipment you are unlikely to see any savings in 9mm for thousands of rounds.
 
Last edited:
Mr Hogg -
Check your local library for books such as The ABC's of Reloading, or any reloading manual. The reloading process is straight forward, but needs to be fully understood before you start.

If I were you, I'd concentrate on the 45ACP first. That's a relatively low pressure round and very forgiving of beginner mistakes. The 9mm is far more "touchy" and not a good starting point.

You can get reliable and safe reloading data for Universal Clays on-line RIGHT HERE.
 
I will presume the 230gr bullets are for .45ACP? Though I reckon they 'could' be for about anything?

The Lyman and Lee manuals are what I mostly use, coupled with the Hodgdon website (I use only their Win231/HP-38)
 
Start with the 9mm to get your feet wet. It is usually more forgiving with most loads. I have no experience with Clays, so other will have to inform you if there are issues to be aware of.

Everyone is saying get a good manual, for good reason. I think everyone should have a Lyman's 49th on the shelf, because it is reasonably priced, has a wide range of loads, and you should always have a minimum of 2 references, but 3 is better.

Be meticulous. This also means start low and work your way up, and keep track of everything. Load a few of several different loads up to midrange or so and toss them into seperate ziplock bags with all the loading data on a card in each bag. Half the fun of reloading is finding a load your gun likes and shoots well. If you can't resist impressing the guy at the next table at the range, break out a Hakim.
 
Take note of what was said about the reliability of internet information. In 2 of the three posts above this one, there are opinions about 9mm that vary from it's a good safe starting cartridge to it is more forgiving than most loads.

I'm not saying either is wrong, just the opinion of the individual likely based on their experience. Hence the need to check several sources before making use of any information. Heck, I've even seen some reloading manuals with incorrect information. They sometimes publish corrections so be careful, be safe. Understand what you're going to do before doing it. Good advice: start with low charges and work up, always checking for signs of high pressure or other problems.
 
Stick to the manuals or the manufacturer's reloading guide. Be sure to read the instructions for your scale. You will probably need to calibrate it. Get some calipers so you will know what a proper crimp looks like. Universal Clays is going to be good for certain loads. Just don't try to make it into something it's not. If you want higher velocity, get the right powder.
 
It is NOT bad you bought small batches first. You will probably change components a couple times before you settle. I still have most of a 1 pounder of Blue Dot that I found didn't work well with my loads. I'd be out a lot more money if I had bought a larger container. Experiment in small batches, purchase PROVEN components in bulk.
 
Universal is one of the first powders I started with. The jacketed data will be fine for plated, as the top-end loads shouldn't overdrive the plating. (if they're plating similarly to Berry's).

That said, if memory serves me, the minimum load is 4.0 grains of Universal for a 115gr bullet. In my glock (G19) it didn't have enough oomph to work the slide reliably. About 50% of them stove-piped. Big hint here - when you start your loads, only make a handful of test rounds. If you load a box worth and they don't work, you get to pull everything.

Ultimately, I settled on 4.4 grains. This is mid-range I believe. Good accuracy, pleasant recoil.
 
medalguy said:
Take note of what was said about the reliability of internet information. In 2 of the three posts above this one, there are opinions about 9mm that vary from it's a good safe starting cartridge to it is more forgiving than most loads.

I'm not saying either is wrong, just the opinion of the individual likely based on their experience.
Ah well, there really isn't a simple answer, and we can only make some general statements without getting into a lot of detail. Or we can get into a lot of detail, only to discover we don't have all the information, nor the means to acquire it, which requires good test equipment and methodology. So where does that leave us?

I will go out on a limb and state that I think the 9mm is a very forgiving cartridge. Being of small diameter, it can tolerate greater pressure than most others before achieving catastrophic failure, but being of smaller capacity, there is less total energy available to release. The math to prove that is fairly simple - the math to show the amount of pressure a given charge of powder will generate under varying conditions is not quite so simple, as it tends to be a non linear function.

So more than anything, powder selection complicates matters, as some are not very forgiving in a given application. But as a general rule (and you can look this up in the manuals), the amount of the same type of powder in different cartridges doesn't vary as much as the case capacity does, so more of the fast powders will come closer to filling a 9mm case, which leaves less space for an overcharge. Of course there is still plenty of room for error, since we don't know which powders are likely to build greater pressure with a given % of overcharge. Not to mention how they tolerate giving up their personal space to an intruding bullet. We can assume, and make reasonably good guesses, but most of us don't have access to all data to make truly informed decisions.

Anyway, I was only able to find one load in my manuals for Clays in 9mm that shows a start and a max load. It's a wide range, compared to most others, and that is good. But I don't know anything about the density of Clays, so I don't know if it about fills the case, or hardly fills the case. Or all those other little details that would be nice to know. :)

One thing I do know (because I checked it), it is possible to double charge a 45acp with a max load of Bullseye, but most 9mm loads won't allow much more than 30%-40% over a max load of Bullseye.
 
Hogdons 45ACP loads show a min to max pressure of 16,000 to 17,200 cup for the powders mentioned and is fairly typical of 45 acp pressures.

Hogdon's 9mm loads shows a min to max pressure of 32000 to 33,000 cup for the powders mentioned and is fairly typical of 9mm pressures.

As GaryL said, a lot of other factors also influence the effects of overcharges. The above 'typical' data however, combined with the vary small case 'volume' of the 9mm Luger, makes the 9mm generally much less forgiving of reloading errors.

It's "typically" easier to screw up a 9mm, than a 45ACP.

P.S. 124gr jhp 9mm loads using 3.8 grs of n320 (31000 cup or so) can also, just barely, be 'double charged', because I too tested it personally. It would give a compressed load.
 
1SOW said:
Hogdons 45ACP loads show a min to max pressure of 16,000 to 17,200 cup for the powders mentioned and is fairly typical of 45 acp pressures.

Hogdon's 9mm loads shows a min to max pressure of 32000 to 33,000 cup for the powders mentioned and is fairly typical of 9mm pressures.
Well, if I'm wrong, then I'm wrong and hope to learn what is right.

I realize cup isn't psi, but using those numbers and the internal volume of the 2 cartridges, you'll find the total force acting against the case walls is fairly close to the same, assuming the peak pressure is reached before the bullet starts to move. After that, things get fudged a bit, and can go either way, but they are not vastly different. Granted, the higher pressure of the 9mm means being a little closer to a hull breach and gas leak.

Need someone with an understanding of hoop strength to step in and add some information.

I understand that putting the same amount of gas into a smaller volume will increase the pressure. From the ideal gas law pV = nRT (p=pressure, V=volume, n=moles, R=gas constant, T=temperature), it is clear that cutting the volume in half is going to double the pressure, all else being equal.
 
Like said above, since you are using a Hodgdon powder you can get load data from the Hodgdon Load data Site. BTW, Hodgdon now sells all Winchester and IMR powders along with their own powders so data is available for all 3 company's powders on that load data site.

Just a note, always check any data given on the Internet for yourself because it's very easy to switch a number or write it incorrectly by mistake. Mistakes can and will happen so be careful.

Since Hodgdon is giving a range of between 4.5gr and 5.0gr of Universal using a 115gr Speer GDHP bullet your powder is going to go a long way. You're not going to use much more with the .45 Auto. I think Universal will be just fine although I personally prefer W231(HP-38).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top