I just grabbed an 8" gong for like $40 off Amazon. It said it was AR500 steel, but several of the reviews said they are not the most durable. For that price should I expect it to really take .223, or should I just stuck to .22 and pistols? I'd don't want to ruin it, but I'd kind of like to shoot at it with a .223.
Gong Quality
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If it's 1/2" for pistol don't shoot it any closer than 10 yds(30 ft) & 50 yds for rifle.
Be sure to angle it downward to deflect the rounds as they hit the gong.
Bullets can bounce off of the gongs & come back at you. Inspect the face of the gong for any pitting. If you see pitting at any time stop using the gong.
Be sure to angle it downward to deflect the rounds as they hit the gong.
Bullets can bounce off of the gongs & come back at you. Inspect the face of the gong for any pitting. If you see pitting at any time stop using the gong.
AJC1
Member
1/2 inch ar plate should handle any pistol at any range. Rifle at or below 308 at 100 yards no steel penetrator is good to go.
AJC1
Member
They last years. If your to close or to.much power they will cup. If your waaaaay over they will pierce
By cup, you mean they start to deform right? Can't you just start hitting the other side?
AJC1
Member
Yes the overpowered steel targets will react by deformation
CoalCrackerAl
Member
I buy my steel targets from Titan MFG. I did get one silhouette that dented. They sent me another one right away. And let me keep the other one. I use it for rim fire.
Even AR400 should be good for pistol. I've fired thousands of rounds at mild steel with pistol before retiring them to being sacrificial at 200.
If it's truly AR500, you should be fine.
Any time you shoot steel, there is additional RISK involved.
A bullet will explode off a flat surface at approximately a 20 degree angle and thats the reason you angle the face downward. It doesn't deflect it all down.
ANYTIME YOU SHOOT STEEL, you should have a baseball style cap on with the bill facing forward and safety glasses ( preferably wrap around or side shielded).
This will prevent those small fragments from finding their way between your glasses and your eye.
I shoot steel a bit closer than many and have gotten hit by many shards.
My AR500 collection.
2018-10-18_06-55-09 by poofy27, on Flickr
Here are some mild steel plates we used at various group shoots untill I decided they were no longer safe to use and bought all AR500 replacements except for the 2 resetting popper that were AR500.
group shoot steel by poofy27, on Flickr
My advice to everyone is to get good steel, shoot at safe distances, wear a ball cap and good safety glasses, do NOT shoot at cratered steel ( this is when a bullet can hit part of a crater and come right back at you).
This experimental test plate was shot a 10 yards from behind steel sheeting with only the barrel and enough to see the sights. Once again, RISK is different to everyone.
IIRC. a 9mm, .40SW, .44mag, X39, 30-30,.308, 30.06, .300 winmag a couple doubles.
2020-01-21_08-11-50 by poofy27, on Flickr
If it's truly AR500, you should be fine.
Any time you shoot steel, there is additional RISK involved.
A bullet will explode off a flat surface at approximately a 20 degree angle and thats the reason you angle the face downward. It doesn't deflect it all down.
ANYTIME YOU SHOOT STEEL, you should have a baseball style cap on with the bill facing forward and safety glasses ( preferably wrap around or side shielded).
This will prevent those small fragments from finding their way between your glasses and your eye.
I shoot steel a bit closer than many and have gotten hit by many shards.
My AR500 collection.
2018-10-18_06-55-09 by poofy27, on FlickrHere are some mild steel plates we used at various group shoots untill I decided they were no longer safe to use and bought all AR500 replacements except for the 2 resetting popper that were AR500.
group shoot steel by poofy27, on FlickrMy advice to everyone is to get good steel, shoot at safe distances, wear a ball cap and good safety glasses, do NOT shoot at cratered steel ( this is when a bullet can hit part of a crater and come right back at you).
This experimental test plate was shot a 10 yards from behind steel sheeting with only the barrel and enough to see the sights. Once again, RISK is different to everyone.
IIRC. a 9mm, .40SW, .44mag, X39, 30-30,.308, 30.06, .300 winmag a couple doubles.
2020-01-21_08-11-50 by poofy27, on Flickr
Don't shoot steel with a rifle at less than 100 yards due to potential ricochets/target damage. And of course how you angle the target and how much give the mounting set up has makes a difference. Some rifle is still too fast at 100 yards to shoot steel with. A lot of AR500 makers say 100 yards for rifle, 200 yards for magnum rifle, but it's all about speed as much as energy.
https://shootingtargets7.com/pages/target-selection
https://makeitringtargets.com/target-ballistics
Riomouse911
Member
I use 1/2” or 3/4” steel gas line pipe and threaded fittings for my gong holders. A piece of 1/3” x2”x18” conveyor belt material folds over the top pipe piece to hang them.
I also use a dueling tree and these swinging plates/gongs from ALCO Target with a B-27 stapled in the middle.
Stay safe.
I also use a dueling tree and these swinging plates/gongs from ALCO Target with a B-27 stapled in the middle.
Stay safe.
RetiredUSNChief
Member
I don't shoot AR500 less than half an inch thick. My preference, especially since I may also be shooting with a rifle. It it's AR500, it will last for years and years with pistol and most rifles. For rifles, velocities not exceeding 3,000 fps is generally recommended, and definitely with no steel core or armor piercing rounds.
Various sites have advice on how to set up these steel targets, and they're pretty consistent. Here are a couple to look at:
https://ar500targetsolutions.com/how-to-hang-steel-targets/
https://www.grizzlytargets.com/guides/how-to-hang-steel-targets/
If it's a fixed steel target, then about a 20 degree downward angle is recommended.
Free hanging can be vertical. Free hanging also makes the "gong" sound so much more audible, and therefore fun to shoot.
Distance: 25 yards or more for pistol, 100 yards for rifle.
Shooting AR500 is really cool. Bullets from rifles pretty much "splash" when they hit the surface and all you'll likely find is a copper disk from the jacket. The lead essentially vanishes in a puff of lead powder. Pistol bullets loose a lot of their lead content as well, but you'll likely find a few flat copper jackets with lead stuck to them.
That means that ricochets from AR500 generally don't involve a "bullet" in any kind of form resembling a bullet at all. Tiny fragments, low mass, small discs. Penetration from these not likely, because their mass is generally very small and their shape does not lend itself to aerodynamic flight at all...but eye protection is a must, because you're eyes are a bit more subject to injury. Most such bullet fragments will be in the immediate vicinity of the AR500 target in an area defined by the face plane of the target. Meaning below and to the sides. You WILL find such bullet fragments up to several yards in front of the targets after you've shot a bit.
Care involves not shooting them with something powerful enough to readily dimple or deform them. Just inspect them to be sure this hasn't happened...if it has, replace them.
Various sites have advice on how to set up these steel targets, and they're pretty consistent. Here are a couple to look at:
https://ar500targetsolutions.com/how-to-hang-steel-targets/
https://www.grizzlytargets.com/guides/how-to-hang-steel-targets/
If it's a fixed steel target, then about a 20 degree downward angle is recommended.
Free hanging can be vertical. Free hanging also makes the "gong" sound so much more audible, and therefore fun to shoot.
Distance: 25 yards or more for pistol, 100 yards for rifle.
Shooting AR500 is really cool. Bullets from rifles pretty much "splash" when they hit the surface and all you'll likely find is a copper disk from the jacket. The lead essentially vanishes in a puff of lead powder. Pistol bullets loose a lot of their lead content as well, but you'll likely find a few flat copper jackets with lead stuck to them.
That means that ricochets from AR500 generally don't involve a "bullet" in any kind of form resembling a bullet at all. Tiny fragments, low mass, small discs. Penetration from these not likely, because their mass is generally very small and their shape does not lend itself to aerodynamic flight at all...but eye protection is a must, because you're eyes are a bit more subject to injury. Most such bullet fragments will be in the immediate vicinity of the AR500 target in an area defined by the face plane of the target. Meaning below and to the sides. You WILL find such bullet fragments up to several yards in front of the targets after you've shot a bit.
Care involves not shooting them with something powerful enough to readily dimple or deform them. Just inspect them to be sure this hasn't happened...if it has, replace them.
Heres a video of a few plates at about 7 to 10 yards..
Free hanging will generally divert most of the pieces down.ward.
I had to rig the stand as I was missing a piece.
https://flic.kr/p/WzCJAH
Free hanging will generally divert most of the pieces down.ward.
I had to rig the stand as I was missing a piece.
https://flic.kr/p/WzCJAH
illinoisburt
Member
Standard 223 fmj and soft points are usually under the 3000 fps mark at 100 yards or so and seem to be okay on ar500 plates. I've had some pitting when shooting a few green tips at that range. Even those cheap 1/2" Allen rifle plates from Wal-Mart have done okay, so it's the steel not the brand. Cutting steel with bullets is about speed and bullet hardness. You can whack a plate day and night with 12 gauge slugs and heavy 45-70 bullets with no ill effects other than having to reset it occasionally when it flips over or around. Small fast moving varmint bullets like 22-250 or 220 swift soft points zip through like butter. The magic number is somewhere around 3300 to 3400 fps.
Shootingtargets7 are good folks.
Gongs are not that expensive, 1/2" is worthless for a 22, will just thud and barely move. I have mostly 1/4" and 3/16" set up for pistol and they sound ok with 22 even. I shoot them with 22 to 45 anywhere from 10 to 25 yards.
I have I believe 3 1/2" gongs set up at 50, 75 and 100 yards. They do mark up a bit with 223. If I order more for 100 + I will probably go for the 3/8 due to sound.
Get you a bunch of shepherds hooks and hand them where you want. Light and easy to move and set at different ranges as you feel like it.
Gongs are not that expensive, 1/2" is worthless for a 22, will just thud and barely move. I have mostly 1/4" and 3/16" set up for pistol and they sound ok with 22 even. I shoot them with 22 to 45 anywhere from 10 to 25 yards.
I have I believe 3 1/2" gongs set up at 50, 75 and 100 yards. They do mark up a bit with 223. If I order more for 100 + I will probably go for the 3/8 due to sound.
Get you a bunch of shepherds hooks and hand them where you want. Light and easy to move and set at different ranges as you feel like it.
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