GP100 MC hammer shim

[Mark_Mark]

Alright putting on a 9# trigger + 9# hammer spring in. 1st time taking this master piece apart.

BUT, how do you put the 2 hammer shims back in??? magic?

I just left it out for now, before I break something

9# feels GREAT

THANKS

 

[reddog81]

I believe the common suggestion is to use a small dab of grease. With grease applied, the shims should "stick" to the hammer yet won't interfere with function.

It's been 10 years+ since I went through the process of trying the various springs and can't remember which one I settled on but I'm pretty sure it was either the stock hammer spring or the next step down of 12 lbs. The light ones have a nice trigger pull but if they don't set off primers it is kind of a big issue.

 

[Mark_Mark]

I believe the common suggestion is to use a small dab of grease. With grease applied, the shims should "stick" to the hammer yet won't interfere with function.

It's been 10 years+ since I went through the process of trying the various springs and can't remember which one I settled on but I'm pretty sure it was either the stock hammer spring or the next step down of 12 lbs. The light ones have a nice trigger pull but if they don't set off primers it is kind of a big issue.

I was thinking a little AR grease, stuff is sticky

I’m going with the lowest springs 1st then work my way up.

thanks again

 

[dannyd]

This is the guy to watch

https://www.triggershims.com/ruger_double_action.php

 

[Riomouse911]

Ya, go too light and you waste trips shooting with lots of FTF practice.

Lets you know if you are anticipation flinching, though!

Good luck finding the magic combo @Mark_Mark .

Stay safe.

 

[Mark_Mark]

Ya, go too light and you waste trips shooting with lots of FTF practice.

Lets you know if you are anticipation flinching, though!

Good luck finding the magic combo @Mark_Mark .

Stay safe.

9# feels right! if 9# didn’t work, why put it in the kit!

 

[Varminterror]

Grease never works for me. I place the hammer in the frame, use feeler gauges to slide the shims into place, starting with the right side shim so I can partially insert the hammer pivot pin to retain the first shim, then flip the revolver over and install the second shim on the left side. It's quick, it's easy, only takes a matter of seconds on top of the time it takes to install the hammer without the shims.

Of note, with Ruger Double Actions, I make a trigger plunger bushing (not the part most people think about, check exploded diagram in your owners manual) for all of the Ruger DA's on which I do action work, to help guide the trigger plunger within the trigger. This greatly improves the performance with reduced power trigger springs.

(**It's also worth considering doing a sear neutralization job to allow you to INCREASE your hammer spring and reduce your trigger spring. Rugers have positive inclination sears, so you end up, even in single action firing, fighting the mainspring as you pull the trigger. You can build a MORE reliable revolver with LESS trigger pull weight than factory condition by correcting the sear angle, increasing the hammer spring, and reducing the trigger spring - especially if you add the trigger plunger bushing I mentioned).

 

[Varminterror]

if 9# didn’t work, why put it in the kit!

It doesn't work for a LOT of Ruger DA's, at least not the way they leave the factory. You might ask the same question - if the minimum power springs always work, why does the "kit" come as a kit with higher power springs?

The MC gets a bit of extra attention that isn't availed to the standard models (not a lot, but some), so it's less likely to have issues that befall the rest of the fleet, but it's pretty common for folks to experience mis-fires with the minimum power hammer spring which is included in the spring kits. I used to pick up a lot of revolver action work when folks complained they tried spring kits and didn't get reliable function - this especially was the reason I came up with the trigger plunger bushing ~18yrs ago (I'm not the only guy to have the idea, but that is ONE Ruger DA action job trick that I did develop on my own after watching failed reset on too many trigger plungers).

 

[Mark_Mark]

Grease never works for me. I place the hammer in the frame, use feeler gauges to slide the shims into place, starting with the right side shim so I can partially insert the hammer pivot pin to retain the first shim, then flip the revolver over and install the second shim on the left side. It's quick, it's easy, only takes a matter of seconds on top of the time it takes to install the hammer without the shims.

Of note, with Ruger Double Actions, I make a trigger plunger bushing (not the part most people think about, check exploded diagram in your owners manual) for all of the Ruger DA's on which I do action work, to help guide the trigger plunger within the trigger. This greatly improves the performance with reduced power trigger springs.

(**It's also worth considering doing a sear neutralization job to allow you to INCREASE your hammer spring and reduce your trigger spring. Rugers have positive inclination sears, so you end up, even in single action firing, fighting the mainspring as you pull the trigger. You can build a MORE reliable revolver with LESS trigger pull weight than factory condition by correcting the sear angle, increasing the hammer spring, and reducing the trigger spring - especially if you add the trigger plunger bushing I mentioned).

Feeler gauge! NICE!

I noticed a very slight play in the single action! Will mostly be using it for DA shooting

 

[Mark_Mark]

It doesn't work for a LOT of Ruger DA's, at least not the way they leave the factory. You might ask the same question - if the minimum power springs always work, why does the "kit" come as a kit with higher power springs?

The MC gets a bit of extra attention that isn't availed to the standard models (not a lot, but some), so it's less likely to have issues that befall the rest of the fleet, but it's pretty common for folks to experience mis-fires with the minimum power hammer spring which is included in the spring kits. I used to pick up a lot of revolver action work when folks complained they tried spring kits and didn't get reliable function - this especially was the reason I came up with the trigger plunger bushing ~18yrs ago (I'm not the only guy to have the idea, but that is ONE Ruger DA action job trick that I did develop on my own after watching failed reset on too many trigger plungers).

if 9# don’t work, I’ll try #10, new gun, didn’t want to polish up the internal ms yet. Just for now, then I’ll busty out the Dremel (jk)

 

[Varminterror]

Will mostly be using it for DA shooting

As long as the shims are free-moving to guide the hammer without binding, then they're actually even more important when firing DA than SA - especially when using reduced power hammer springs (main springs, kinda makes me choke to say "hammer springs, but I get it, it's a GP100). SA fire has MORE spring compression and more hammer travel than does DA fire, so a teeny bit more striking force. Compressing the spring stores potential energy, and we don't want to waste anything when we release that store as kinetic energy with frame drag.

if 9# don’t work, I’ll try #10

If 9# doesn't work, check your firing pin protrusion and your transfer bar clearance, validated against cylinder end shake & headspace. More often than not, when the 9# hammer spring doesn't work in GP's (which are more reliable with the 9# than are the SP's), it's usually due to frame drag first - which can't happen because you have a shimmed MC - or secondarily due to insufficient FP travel due to an over-height step on the hammer nose.

 

[Mark_Mark]

As long as the shims are free-moving to guide the hammer without binding, then they're actually even more important when firing DA than SA - especially when using reduced power hammer springs (main springs, kinda makes me choke to say "hammer springs, but I get it, it's a GP100). SA fire has MORE spring compression and more hammer travel than does DA fire, so a teeny bit more striking force. Compressing the spring stores potential energy, and we don't want to waste anything when we release that store as kinetic energy with frame drag.



If 9# doesn't work, check your firing pin protrusion and your transfer bar clearance, validated against cylinder end shake & headspace. More often than not, when the 9# hammer spring doesn't work in GP's (which are more reliable with the 9# than are the SP's), it's usually due to frame drag first - which can't happen because you have a shimmed MC - or secondarily due to insufficient FP travel due to an over-height step on the hammer nose.

Thanks you! your background and knowledge is why I love this forum!

I better put those shims back in. Range day is tomorrow, I’ll keep us updated

I don’t know half the terminology you’re speaking, but I’ll get there.

 

[Mark_Mark]

Ya, go too light and you waste trips shooting with lots of FTF practice.

Lets you know if you are anticipation flinching, though!

Good luck finding the magic combo @Mark_Mark .

Stay safe.

Flinching…. I think it’s natural and needed. How else do you keep your gun on target.

I call it timing your flinch. Flinch after the hammer drops!

 

[Mark_Mark]

As long as the shims are free-moving to guide the hammer without binding, then they're actually even more important when firing DA than SA - especially when using reduced power hammer springs (main springs, kinda makes me choke to say "hammer springs, but I get it, it's a GP100). SA fire has MORE spring compression and more hammer travel than does DA fire, so a teeny bit more striking force. Compressing the spring stores potential energy, and we don't want to waste anything when we release that store as kinetic energy with frame drag.



If 9# doesn't work, check your firing pin protrusion and your transfer bar clearance, validated against cylinder end shake & headspace. More often than not, when the 9# hammer spring doesn't work in GP's (which are more reliable with the 9# than are the SP's), it's usually due to frame drag first - which can't happen because you have a shimmed MC - or secondarily due to insufficient FP travel due to an over-height step on the hammer nose.

you got me thinking again.

I’m going to sacrifice few primers to test the spring before range day.

 

[v8stang289]

you got me thinking again.

I’m going to sacrifice few primers to test the spring before range day.

Just in case you've never set off a primer only case, it will probably still be loud.

 

[Riomouse911]

Flinching…. I think it’s natural and needed. How else do you keep your gun on target.

I call it timing your flinch. Flinch after the hammer drops!

You keep your gun on target…by not flinching!

Sneaking a snap cap or two into a shooters cylinder/magazine shows immediately whether or not the shooter is holding their sight picture, applying a steady, controlled trigger pull, and maintaining good form throughout the firing sequence - follow through. (Same happens with unintended FTF’s when ammo doesn’t light when the primer is struck.)

Those folks that can do this well are the ones who punish the X rings, easily clear the plate racks/pin tables and put meat in the freezer.

Stay safe.

 

[UncleEd]

Well, Mark_Mark, just as a point of fact, the
designers/engineers at Ruger do know what
they are doing. Reliability, as it is over at
S&W, is the Number One goal.

Just for the record, the hammer/trigger return
springs in a GP100 are 14/12 pounds.

 

[Mark_Mark]

Well, Mark_Mark, just as a point of fact, the
designers/engineers at Ruger do know what
they are doing. Reliability, as it is over at
S&W, is the Number One goal.

Just for the record, the hammer/trigger return
springs in a GP100 are 14/12 pounds.

It’s Impressive! so clean to disassemble, Just a work of art!

 

[Varminterror]

just as a point of fact, the designers/engineers at Ruger do know what they are doing.

And what they are doing is producing relatively complex machines with interchangeable internal parts, assembled by common laborers, requiring minimal hand fitting, built to a relatively affordable price point.

It's pretty easy to improve the polish quality on a raw rock from the quarry, just like it's pretty simple to improve the triggerpull on a Ruger revolver.

 

[Mark_Mark]

And what they are doing is producing relatively complex machines with interchangeable internal parts, assembled by common laborers, requiring minimal hand fitting, built to a relatively affordable price point.

It's pretty easy to improve the polish quality on a raw rock from the quarry, just like it's pretty simple to improve the triggerpull on a Ruger revolver.

I love Ruger’s! are their Black Hawk and Red Hawk also this elegant?

 

[CZguy75]

I just did shims in my GP. I found that applying a dab of grease kept one shim "stuck" to the hammer enough so that i could insert the hammer, then a slave pin to keep it aligned. Then I walked the other in with a feeler guage. It works great and was actually quickly done.

If I remember correctly I had .019 slop at the hammer dog, and .009 at the hammer. I shimmed the dog and hammer, and polished the trigger plunger housing on the inside. The results were absolutely awesome and immediately noticeable. my DA is not only useable now, but its GOOD!

This 5" blued GP is rapidly becoming my favorite handgun. It shoots lights out and feels so RIGHT.

 

[Mark_Mark]

I just did shims in my GP. I found that applying a dab of grease kept one shim "stuck" to the hammer enough so that i could insert the hammer, then a slave pin to keep it aligned. Then I walked the other in with a feeler guage. It works great and was actually quickly done.

If I remember correctly I had .019 slop at the hammer dog, and .009 at the hammer. I shimmed the dog and hammer, and polished the trigger plunger housing on the inside. The results were absolutely awesome and immediately noticeable. my DA is not only useable now, but its GOOD!

This 5" blued GP is rapidly becoming my favorite handgun. It shoots lights out and feels so RIGHT.

also did the grease before the feeler. turning the gun upright also keeps weight off the shim so it will drop in without moving

 

[Varminterror]

I love Ruger’s! are their Black Hawk and Red Hawk also this elegant?

Not such sleek lines as the Match Champion GP - not unless you pick a Flattop 44spcl or 357mag Blackhawk, on the mid-sized frame.

I have a gaggle of Ruger revolvers, both double and single action. The GP100 is actually the ONE model I don't really find terribly pertinent for the types of shooting I do, BUT I did find myself browsing one for my son today, since we don't have a long barreled SP101 any more, and my Redhawks and Super Reds are rather large for his size. He's started shooting a 32 H&R Single Six, but it's a birdie and an SA, so I'm finding myself in want of a "duty revolver" for the first time in about 15yrs... Unless I find a 4.2" SP101 for a song, first...

 

[Mark_Mark]

9# works…

I need a new Grip. Still can’t get a good grouping under 1.5”

 

[reddog81]

I actually like the regular mode Hogue ones with finger grooves. Sure they are ugly but for my average sized hands they are a perfect fit. Wood grips look better but rubber is easier to shoot.