GP100 woes

[Pelo801]

A while back I bought this GP100. It was used and I bought for the sole purpose of having it converted to 10mm. I haven't ever fired it until just the other day. Above the trigger is kind of a sharp edge that hurt my finger while firing as it rode along the edge during recoil. I'm wondering if anybody else has had this problem and what they did to remedy it. I posted a close up picture of the trigger and the edge above it you can kind of see what I'm talking about. Please advise

 

[M-Cameron]

are you talking about this edge?......just take a small file and round that edge over slightly......

 

[M-Cameron]

also sounds like you need to work on your grip strength.........your finger should not be that far up during recoil...

...you should be able to keep your finger in place with the trigger set to the rear, your fingers shouldnt be moving much at all under recoil.

 

[pblanc]

It will probably be easiest and best to polish the offending burr with the trigger group disassembled from the frame. If you have not done this, you can refer to this guide:

http://www.sp101trigger.com/index.html

The guide refers to an SP101 but the GP100 disassembly is basically the same. Once you have the trigger group off the frame you can examine the edges of both for and sharp areas. Don't round off the 90 degree edges of either the frame or the trigger group or the revolver won't look right. I would take some very fine auto body sandpaper to any rough spots, then polish the edges with a Scotch Brite pad.

 

[weblance]

While you have the file in hand, break the edges on the hammer spur. If you haven't found this area to be sharp yet... you will.

 

[Pelo801]

I guess I didn't do a good job of explaining myself. What I meant was the area on the actual frame right above the trigger that was rubbing my finger, actually cutting it. In this picture you can see where my finger rides on the frame during recoil and while pulling the trigger.

 

[JohnKSa]

The frames of the Ruger DA revolvers are left pretty sharp after machining. Very careful work with a ceramic file or with a small screwdriver with some fine-grit sandpaper wrapped around it can usually remedy the problem.

You're going to create some grit/debris in the process, so you'll want to take the gun apart before doing your smoothing to insure that you get all the junk out of the works when you're done.

For what it's worth, I do agree that you'll probably shoot better with your finger lower on the trigger--you're giving up a lot of leverage if you put your finger so high on the trigger that it's rubbing against the frame.

 

[MIL-DOT]

The frames of the Ruger DA revolvers are left pretty sharp after machining. Very careful work with a ceramic file or with a small screwdriver with some fine-grit sandpaper wrapped around it can usually remedy the problem....

Yep, I concur. As much as I love Ruger's revolvers, in my experience they put them out just a little sloppy,as far as these sharp edges are concerned.
And, now that I think about it, I traded a stainless mini-14 to freind for while (I got it back, then later sold it), and this guy cut the living shinola out of his finger on a sharp edge in the receiver. After his warning, I checked it, and he was right, it was SCARY sharp, but a diffcult place to get to with a file or stone.

 

[AlfonsDeWolf]

Might be a good reason to buy stainless Rugers then....to file away and not worry about losing bluing protection.

 

[Drail]

That's a very common "cut and pinch" spot on Ruger revolvers. I have stoned a boat load of Rugers down in that exact spot. And as stated your finger should not be up in that corner. Ruger does not have a de burr department. I suppose they are saving money. The first thing you learn when working in a machine shop is that when a part comes off of a mill every single 90 degree corner on it will cut you like a sharp knife if you don't wear your anti cut gloves. And then it goes to deburr. At Ruger it goes straight to the assembly lines. When I first started working on handguns I learned that every Ruger needed deburring work both inside and outside (the inside is the worst). All of them. If you are going to buy and shoot Rugers you need to get a small set of basic stones to clean them up. Bluing provides almost zero protection from corrosion - it is purely cosmetic. You need oil for protection.

 

[pblanc]

So you are talking about the edges of the slot in the trigger guard housing (not the frame) that the trigger sticks down through? Or the top edge of the trigger itself?

Either way, to smooth those areas adequately you are probably going to need to disassemble the trigger guard group completely to take the trigger out so you can get at the edges of the trigger cut out in the trigger guard housing. This might seem a little intimidating if you have never done it before, but is really not too hard. Refer to the SP101 trigger job guide I cited earlier for instructions and photos. Just be careful not to lose the pawl spring and cylinder latch spring during assembly and disassembly and don't get them mixed up because they are different sizes.

As was said, a lot of people find the edges of the SP100 trigger (and the hammer spur) too sharp. As the trigger and hammer are stainless, you can round the edges at will using files and then smooth with fine sandpaper and metal polish. For the edges of the trigger guard cutout you may be able to knock the edge off with a very thin file, or use sandpaper if you don't have such a file. If you mask the portions of the trigger guard housing that show with tape, you should be able to do this without removing much bluing from the visible part of the trigger guard housing.

 

[Drail]

You will need to pull off the trigger guard. The first time you remove it you will have to depress the plunger very hard to let it clear the frame. Rugers are very tightly fitted when new - it will get better. There will be chips in the hole the plunger and spring ride in. They can be cleaned out with a drill bit (hand held). Take a small square or round stone and knock all the corners down a little. Wrap 320 wet or dry around a wood stick and use it like a file. Make sure you clean or blow out the gun when you're done. You must get all the grit out of it and lube it good. It's not difficult to do and will make the gun MUCH more enjoyable.

 

[CraigC]

Have the gunsmith doing the conversion break that edge for you.

 

[roaddog28]

I agree with all the posters. I have had a lot of Ruger revolvers from the GP100 to SP101. I have had to polish the rough and sharp edges off on all of them. Ruger makes good guns put they do not take the sharp edges off. You will need to take the revolver apart and examine the parts carefully. I use some Indian polish stones to polish the sharp edges. Make sure and find some videos on taking apart the GP100 and reassembly. This is common with Ruger revolvers.
Good luck
Howard

 

[Pelo801]

This edge highlighted in the picture is the area thats giving me problems. I tried adjusting my grip and putting my finger lower on the trigger and that doesnt feel right.

I took a polishing stone and tried to round it over some but it still cut into my finger. Maybe i need to round it over some more.

 

[Pelo801]

Picture didn't post in the first reply

 

[roaddog28]

Picture didn't post in the first reply

Keep working on that area. I can see the sharp edges. Again my advice is take the gun apart and work the area you highlighted.
Good luck

 

[Jim K]

At the risk of trying to tell where someone else hurts, that injury looks more like the finger is being pinched by the trigger on trigger return than being cut when pulling the trigger.

Jim

P.S. I have checked and there is no truth to the story that Ruger is secretly owned by the maker of Band-Aids.

JK

 

[JohnKSa]

I tried adjusting my grip and putting my finger lower on the trigger and that doesnt feel right.

It must really feel bad if it's enough to make you keep cutting your finger to avoid it!

Seriously, it may feel funny at first, but I think you'll find that your shooting improves if you get your finger lower on the trigger and take advantage of the better leverage.

 

[fallout mike]

Shooting gloves?

 

[Zaydok Allen]

Shooting gloves?

Shooting gloves are an option, but a bad idea in my opinion.

If there is a spot on the trigger housing sharp enough to cut his finger, a glove will not last very long and you have the same problem.

If the trigger is actually pinching, then the cloth may get stuck in the pinch point and prevent proper trigger operation. I had this happen one day when shooting in cold weather. That's the day I understood the need for fingerless shooting gloves.

Also, any gloves tough enough to stand up to pinching and/or sharp edges will likely be too thick or too stiff of a material to allow free movement of the trigger finger, which will ruin a person's shooting immediately.

Gloves would be like prescribing aspirin for a headache being caused by a brain tumor. They will treat the symptom, but do nothing to fix the problem.

 

[amd6547]

This thread made me look at my 3 " GP100...no sharp edges at all.

 

[tightgroup tiger]

I never noticed any on mine either. I ride my finger low on the trigger though. I just always have.

 

[Panzerschwein]

GP100s are good guns.

High stopping power at close range. Reliable.

 

[eldon519]

I used to get blisters there with high round count sessions. Just file or sand it.