Grip oil - Odie’s

bsparker

bsparker

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Dec 5, 2018
Messages
349
Location
Northern VA
Has anyone used Odie’s on wood grips?

I picked a jar of this stuff up today on the recommendation of a Rocklers employee. I make my own Single Action grips and am wondering if anyone has used this, how it’s held up and if you have any tips.

8379A682-CF97-4D99-9A24-D0AEBA85431C.jpeg
 
BobWright said:
I have never heard of that product.

As for me, I've used boiled linseed oil and Birchwood Casey's Tru Oil.

Bob Wright
Click to expand...

Yep, that's all I've used so far BLO and Tru Oil. I've got a couple sets up grips fashioned and hope to give Odie's a chance tonight. Several guys in my woodworking community really like the stuff, but none have used it on this type of project.
 
My son uses Odie’s to finish live edge tables and other woodworking projects. It looks amazing and seems durable.
 
Like Bob, I had never heard of it. I settled on spray MIn-Wax polyurethane as my wood finish of choice a lot of years ago. Sometimes I use lacquer in an airbrush on certain projects though.
 
General observation after using it on a couple of grips. Compared to TruOil, it soaks into the wood rather than sitting on top. No need to worry about streaks or finger prints. No need for several layers like TruOil. It’s more like BLO but dries a little better and feels better in the hand in my opinion. May be better for hiding scratches. I’m imagine if a buyer needs to make minor adjustments to fit their pistol it would be less noticeable and easier to touch up with Odie’s oil than TruOil.

You can’t get a shine like you can with TruOil, which can be nice. So the finish is bit more dull. I’m not sure which I like better honestly nor what others might like more. I do like the simplicity of Odie’s.

below is a picture of one with Odie’s (top) and one with TruOil, both out of Bubinga for a Ruger Single Six.

E37BFDB4-2343-4D49-BAD6-373315F1F66B.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Those are pretty grips. I use Mylands on the furniture I make after the finish is applied and cured, and I put it on my gun stocks especially if hunting in the rain.
It is particularly good where the wood grain is open or there is a lot of grain directional changes.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/mylands-clear-wax.
I will have to try some Odie's, looks interesting but I don't know about having it darken up with age. Cherry wood does that on it own and I wish it didn't.
But in this case I think it looks good. I make these coin banks for my Grandchildren out of Northern Black Cherry. This one is mine, it has darkened up from how it looked from when I made it.
Black Cherry piggie bank.jpg
 
tightgroup tiger said:
Those are pretty grips. I use Mylands on the furniture I make after the finish is applied and cured, and I put it on my gun stocks especially if hunting in the rain.
It is particularly good where the wood grain is open or there is a lot of grain directional changes.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/mylands-clear-wax.
I will have to try some Odie's, looks interesting but I don't know about having it darken up with age. Cherry wood does that on it own and I wish it didn't.
But in this case I think it looks good. I make these coin banks for my Grandchildren out of Northern Black Cherry. This one is mine, it has darkened up from how it looked from when I made it.
View attachment 1131286
Click to expand...

good lookin box. I may have to give Mylands a try. I’ve heard of it but have never used it.
 
tightgroup tiger said:
I see that Odie's is food safe, it must be a mineral oil of some kind, maybe tongue oil.
Click to expand...
You mean tung aka. china wood oil? That's what I usually soak wood in (and let it cure) before applying Tru-Oil. Or if the finish is to look "rustic" and somewhat rough, leave it at that.

Tung oil is also fantastic for hardwood outdoor furniture as it penetrates very deep into wood, thanks to its molecular structure. One of my favorites and I often prefer it over BLO.
 
hq said:
You mean tung aka. china wood oil? That's what I usually soak wood in (and let it cure) before applying Tru-Oil. Or if the finish is to look "rustic" and somewhat rough, leave it at that.

Tung oil is also fantastic for hardwood outdoor furniture as it penetrates very deep into wood, thanks to its molecular structure. One of my favorites and I often prefer it over BLO.
Click to expand...

i was wondering about applying TruOil over Odie’s. When you apply TruOil over tung oil, how many coats do you do?
 
bsparker said:
When you apply TruOil over tung oil, how many coats do you do?
Click to expand...
Depends. Usually anything between four and ten, and buff the finish to desired gloss (including full matte) once it's cured. Once it's exactly how I want, I wax it.

Tung oil will polymerize during curing so Tru-Oil isn't absolutely mandatory, only preferred.
 
hq said:
Depends. Usually anything between four and ten, and buff the finish to desired gloss (including full matte) once it's cured. Once it's exactly how I want, I wax it.

Tung oil will polymerize during curing so Tru-Oil isn't absolutely mandatory, only preferred.
Click to expand...

Thanks, sounds about right, I’m usually between 7-10 coats. I might try both Odie’s and TruOil on a less than perfect set of grips to see how they turn out.
 
tightgroup tiger said:
I see that Odie's is food safe, it must be a mineral oil of some kind, maybe tongue oil.
Click to expand...
They don't say what "oils and waxes" it is blended from ... but "Food Safe" is touted many times in product description ...
Food Safe usually means ... Tung Oil , Mineral Oil , Paraffin Waxes and Carnauba Wax ...
which would probably make a decent finish .
There are no solvents or driers ... and drying takes 3-5 Day's !!!
Except for the slow drying ... it's an oil - wax finish that propably looks good if you don't mind slow drying and a somewhat "soft" surface finish .

I still like MinWax Tung Oil Finish ... it has solvents and dries hard but I don't expect the baby to chew on my grips ... a childs cradle or a cutting board would get pure Tung oil and be food safe .
Gary
 
Looking at the SDS they post, I would speculate that Odie's is all or mostly BLO. No toxic materials, but don't drink it. Plus there is the warning, just like for BLO, not to leave soaked rags lying around (to prevent fire). If I had a local supplier I would try it.
 
doubleh said:
The words "oil" and "wood" don't go together for me and I absolutely hate finishes that darken or even yellow with age. Set in my ways I am.
Click to expand...

Even bare wood darkens with age. Some species of wood even change color. Purple heart is nearly lavender when new but eventually turns almost walnut brown.

To each his own, of course, but I rather prefer the aging of wood, as well as stag, bone, and ivory.


Bob Wright
 
It's difficult to deal with unfinished wood darkening but I was referring to finishes for wood. Keeping wood inside out of the weather slows it's darkening process as does using a good finish on it.
 
Col. Harrumph said:
Good Lord, the stuff's not cheap!

https://www.amazon.com/Odies-Oil-Universal-9oz-Jar/dp/B07XKQ4LWX
Click to expand...

nope. Not cheap. I had a gift card i had been holding on to for rocklers so decided to try it.

I will say, I like the richness/warmth it adds to the color of the wood But not worth the cost in my opinion. I’ve started adding coats of TruOil to a couple of the grips that have Odie’s on it and TruOil just makes it look right.

live and learn, was worth a try. Probably won’t be buying another jar. This one will likely last a long time (it’ll probably harden/thicken up before I get to use it all).
 
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