Grip repair suggestions
- Thread starter jr45
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rcmodel
Member in memoriam
I would suggest a through degreasing of the crack (as best you can with acetone or other solvent and an air compressor).
Then apply drops of Hot Stuff CYA adhesive.
It will suck clear to the bottom of the crack and set up instantly.
Brownell's sells it for just such repairs as yours.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=13081/Product/HOT_STUFF_INSTANT_GLUE
It is also available at any model hobby shop that sells model airplane kits.
FYI: Don't get it on your fingers and then go to the bathroom.
It will glue your fingers to your pecker, and there ain't nothing you can do about it!
rc
Then apply drops of Hot Stuff CYA adhesive.
It will suck clear to the bottom of the crack and set up instantly.
Brownell's sells it for just such repairs as yours.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=13081/Product/HOT_STUFF_INSTANT_GLUE
It is also available at any model hobby shop that sells model airplane kits.
FYI: Don't get it on your fingers and then go to the bathroom.
It will glue your fingers to your pecker, and there ain't nothing you can do about it!
rc
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788Ham
Member
rc,
Where in the sam hill do you find all of this stuff? You never cease to amaze me! Thanks my friend.
Where in the sam hill do you find all of this stuff? You never cease to amaze me! Thanks my friend.
TNBilly
Member
"FYI: Don't get it on your fingers and then go to the bathroom.
It will glue your fingers to your pecker, and there ain't nothing you can do about it! "
Almost hate to ask....... is this one of those voice of experience thingies? Too funny!!
It will glue your fingers to your pecker, and there ain't nothing you can do about it! "
Almost hate to ask....... is this one of those voice of experience thingies? Too funny!!
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Not quite, but almost.
I used a lot of Hot Stuff building R/C airplanes over the years.
I did in fact glue a complete airplane fuselage to my forearm one time.
The Hot Stuff is thin like water, and has an affinity for cracks.
Somehow while I was gluing a bulkhead inside a fuselage, it ran through a crack in the balsa and down my arm. All I felt was the heat when it kicked over and cured.
While CYA solvent or fingernail polish remover will eventually get it off, it takes a whole lot of it to get a fuselage loose from your wrest to your elbow!
rc
There was a scene in some Movie where someone set up a person by leaving a Rifle out where the person would find it and pick it up in dim light, and, it had the Cyanoacrylate Liquid on the stock and forearm, anyway, guy picks up the Rifle, then can not put it down again, cops show up, yelling 'DROP THE WEAPON!!" and so on...not so good for him!
But, anyway, Cracks in Pistol Stocks would be one of two kinds usually -
From some hard blow or denting effect, or, from a differential shrinkage causing a failure at a weakest point along the grain, or, a combination of these two.
Often Pistol Stocks, when cracked, end up getting Gun Oil in the crack, and, as others have said, this would need to be got out of there using Acetone or MEK or other, prior to using any sort of adhesive.
But also see if there is any debris or irregularity related to the damage which is preventing the crack from closing fully, and, ammend that, first.
Cyanoacrylate is about the best thing for repairing cracks in thin Wood.
Also, if some gap filling is needed, one can come back and with the same Adhesive, add any sort of fine powder to the area needing filling, and, the Glue then will bind the powder particles and, with a few small applications like that, sprinkle in powder, add the tiny drops of the CYA, one can fill in some missing material, and, then sculpt things down to match the original surface, and, even the color, depending on the pigment or tint of the fine Powder material one elected.
Even plain Baking Soda or Cigarette Ash or superfine Sawdust work well for this.
But, anyway, Cracks in Pistol Stocks would be one of two kinds usually -
From some hard blow or denting effect, or, from a differential shrinkage causing a failure at a weakest point along the grain, or, a combination of these two.
Often Pistol Stocks, when cracked, end up getting Gun Oil in the crack, and, as others have said, this would need to be got out of there using Acetone or MEK or other, prior to using any sort of adhesive.
But also see if there is any debris or irregularity related to the damage which is preventing the crack from closing fully, and, ammend that, first.
Cyanoacrylate is about the best thing for repairing cracks in thin Wood.
Also, if some gap filling is needed, one can come back and with the same Adhesive, add any sort of fine powder to the area needing filling, and, the Glue then will bind the powder particles and, with a few small applications like that, sprinkle in powder, add the tiny drops of the CYA, one can fill in some missing material, and, then sculpt things down to match the original surface, and, even the color, depending on the pigment or tint of the fine Powder material one elected.
Even plain Baking Soda or Cigarette Ash or superfine Sawdust work well for this.
The crack is down the center/back and following the grain of the wood. The grips got wet and expanded, then dried and shrunk...that is when crack appeared. This is an old pre-war H&R "sportsman" with bird head type butt. Does not appear that I will have to add any filler but will have somehow clean the crack prior to gluing. Since the grips are impossible to find, hopefully the gluing will fix it.
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