Gun Cleaner Question

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Auburn1992

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Has anybody used this porduct for storing/cleaning their guns? I opted to get it after I heard that RemOil wasn't too good for longer storage times. Would Hoppe's 9 work better?

I have the aerosol can so I can just spray it down the bore and then wipe it out. I was going to try to get some BF CLP but Sportsmans was out of it.

Anything I should be aware of while using this?

Thanks.
 
RemOil is kinda nice. I use it wherever I'd usually use WD-40, which means nowhere near my firearms.

Does a good job on squeaky doors. I like that!

There's a bunch of good CLPs out there. Breakfree, Slip 2000, Hoppe's Elite... I kinda liked the Hoppe's Elite stuff.

Personally I've taken to using Automatic Transmission Fluid for my needs. So far it works. I'd wait 5-10 years before you follow my lead though.
 
I tried synthentic ATF as a lube for my AK in a pinch today and it didn't hold up all that well - not as well as synthetic motor oil (the usual choice, in addition to grease), in any case. I don't think it's as resistant to thermal breakdown as motor oil, and it doesn't seem to react well with cartridge residue - probably due to a lack of detergents.

Still, it works.

I do use Breakfree: it's an average cleaner (which is to say it's adequate for modest to moderate carbon buildup), a poor lubricant, and an excellent rust preventative.

There really is no "one size fits all" solution for every application - you can get away with a CLP type solution for typical range use, but heavy use or unusual circumstances really will demand specialized liquids. I had used some generic all-purpose gun liquids to clean and lube my 98k after I removed the cosmo with hot water and dish soap. The bore at that time was fairly dull. Some months later, I had it in my mind to try a more specialized solvent for the hell of it - all it took was about four wet patches of Sweets 7.62 (each followed by an appropriate number of dry patches) and suddenly my "dull" Mauser bore was bright and shiny with strong lands and only light frosting.
 
MPro-7 Gun Cleaner? If so, it's a great product for cutting through carbon fouling. It is not a lubricant or protectant and strips all traces of such products. Be sure to re-lube with CLP or similar after using it.
 
I've use No. 9 for 60 years. Most of the collection gets a patch down the bore and a application on the exterior 2x per year. Sometimes less. Never had a problem with rust.
 
I have never used Rem Oil as a preservative. There is no reason that is should not work as well as other light oils, that is to say, poorly.

Lubricants do an excellent job of lubricating. Lubricants will have a base oil and additives which are optimized for lubricating.

Motor oil is an outstanding lubricant. Transmission fluid is an outstanding hydraulic fluid. Neither are corrosion inhibitors, and I really doubt there are any anti corrosion inhibitors in either, because there is no need to worry about rust in a operating internal combustion engine.

Light oils will provide a barrier against oxygen migration to a steel surface, but it is not much of a barrier. Anticorrosion coatings have additives to prevent oxygen migration through them. .

Go to a boating store. Marine environments are about the worst out there. They have spray on cans of anti corrosion stuff.

If you want to use oils, just make sure the surface is clean of powder residue, bubble gum, mud dauber nests, etc. A clean surface won’t attract water and hold it against the steel. Then, rub on oil. That should be good for a couple of weeks, but don’t expect any oily surface to last months.
 
Some sample lubes. Clips were cleaned with acetone and outside for 21 days. Sprayed with 5% salt water daily. BSW

rusttestday21.jpg

L-R
CLP
LSA
Swiss rifle grease
Mobile 1
ATF
Machine Gunner's Lube
Control
 
I mentioned the gun cleaner in the title previously then changed the title to something more general than Gun Slick gun Cleaner
 
Gun Slick stuff seems to me "run of the mill". Having said that, I can't see that it would be any worse or better than something like Birchwood Casey Gun Sheath which works just fine. Both cure dry, thus not attracting dust, etc. I doubt you can go wrong with either provided that you keep the gun in a nice dry place.

I don't know about using it in the bore . . . bad or good. Can't see it really hurting anything.

I realize that everyone likes good deals on their clp products. 5 bucks for a quart of synthetic motor oil is a really good deal . . . but it's made for motors. I may be giving the gun cleaning manufacturers too much credit, but they do research this stuff. I doubt their process is as simple as opening up a bottle of Mobil 1, filling up their bottle, and slapping a label on it. How much lube do we actually use on our firearms that we can't pay for the stuff designed for cleaning, lubricating, and protecting firearms?

. . . but to each his own . . .
 
Auburn 292, why store your guns? Use them regularly. But if you must store a weapon, CLP's are ok.
 
Gun Slick stuff seems to me "run of the mill". Having said that, I can't see that it would be any worse or better than something like Birchwood Casey Gun Sheath which works just fine. Both cure dry, thus not attracting dust, etc. I doubt you can go wrong with either provided that you keep the gun in a nice dry place.
Click to expand...

cinteal

You might think Gunslick stuff is run of the mill but that's wrong in this case. I have been running various corrosion tests for almost 5 years now on gun products. Gunslick Gun Seal is one of the top 5 products I've ever tested. While Birchwood Casey Sheath(now called Barricade) is a good product, it is not nearly as effective at protecting against rust in any test I've ever run. Grab a handfull of nails, degrease them, and run your own test. You might be surprised how many popular gun oils/preservatives are nearly worthless at staving off rust. Rem Oil is laughable. On a side note the Gun Seal polishes up a high polished blue gun better than anything else I've ever used. It's a wax that dries in seconds and then can be buffed to a mirror shine. It doesn't smell like mosquito repellant like Sheath/Barricade either.
 
Thanks for the information, Horsemany. That's why I keep coming back to this forum. I've got a can of the stuff. I bought it when I purchased other Gun Slick items. Still haven't used up my Sheath. As it apparently has a new name, you see how long it's been since I bought it. I figured it was pretty much the same thing. Guess I should read my own advice.

I'll have to break out the Gun Slick.

You said it was in the top 5 . . . what were the others?
 
Corossion-X, Eezox, Boeshield T-9, B-F CLP, and Hoppes/Rig grease in that order. They are all excellent and slightly better than Gun Seal in the short test. But I keep all my old tests for years and check back to see long term results too. Long term I've found Gun Seal outperforms Eezox, and BF CLP.

One thing about the greases. When applied thin they perform no better than regular motor oil. It's only heavy sticky coatings that performed well for me, and I've included them in almost all the tests. It's worth mentioning since most folks who use grease usually put it on very thin.

Middle of the road products that I can think of would be WD 40, Sheath/Barricade, Butch's gun oil, FP-10, SC Rust Prevent, Microcrystaline wax, mobil 1 motor oil, etc.

Poor products are consistently Rem-Oil, Hoppe's gun oil, Hoppe's 9, Ed's Red, ATF, Rem dry lube, Browning oil aerosol, Kroil,etc.

I've tested well over 50 products to date. Almost all of them more than once, and remember even poor products will work perfectly if applied often enough.
 
My dad uses Wonder Lube. I pick up his guns and feel like a vet about to perform an artificial insemination.

But it's thick and his guns are in great shape.
 
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