When neebies ask me about what gun oil, I hem and haw and then tell them most of them are good and a lot of people use motor oil or ATF fluid, but the most important thing is to keep guns lubed with something, as so many people shoot them dry or even until they stop working. My buddy of over 30 years is one of the worst.
Gun Lubricants?
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'Tis true that any oil, properly applied is better than no oil. It's also true that one can properly maintain a firearm with makeshift lubrication/cleaning products. After all, that's the way things have been for much of the history of firearms. And it's likely how many, if not most, firearms are maintained today.
But it's also true that quality gun care products do offer measurable benefits compared to products like motor oil or generic products. And it's also true that the practical cost difference is not worth discussing--even when totaled over an entire lifetime of shooting.
But it's also true that quality gun care products do offer measurable benefits compared to products like motor oil or generic products. And it's also true that the practical cost difference is not worth discussing--even when totaled over an entire lifetime of shooting.
FL-NC
Member
I have my own theory on CLP. CLP stands for cleaner, lubricant, preservative. 3 entirely different tasks that 1 thing supposedly does. As a result, it does all 3 in a half-a-- way. I believe the military (where I worked for 23 years in Special Operations units) buys this 1 item to ease in the logistics process and also because they don't have the confidence in the average Soldier to properly use 2 or more items in the way they are designed. Some low "GT scorers" would inevitably attempt to clean a bore with grease, lube a bolt with solvent, etc. Items like shooter's choice solvent, MPRO-7, Sweet's, etc. must be procured outside normal channels for sniper systems. We typically had non-standard solvents and lubes purchased by our command for our other maintenance needs that worked better than standard issue items as well.
Everyone has his own theory on CLP. Most of the theories I've seen have a number of problems; the most common two are:
1. The theories pretend that CLP is CLP. In reality there are many CLPs out there with widely varying performance. The best ones are actually quite good at all three tasks. Not half-a%@#$, not just adequate, but quite good. They lubricate better than most lubricants, protect better than most protectants and are pretty good cleaners. The bad ones? Well, regardless what type of product one is shopping for, there are always some products that are garbage.
2. The theories generally aren't based on any sort of practical research into the products available and their relative performance or on sufficient experience with the various products available and how they perform.
1. The theories pretend that CLP is CLP. In reality there are many CLPs out there with widely varying performance. The best ones are actually quite good at all three tasks. Not half-a%@#$, not just adequate, but quite good. They lubricate better than most lubricants, protect better than most protectants and are pretty good cleaners. The bad ones? Well, regardless what type of product one is shopping for, there are always some products that are garbage.
2. The theories generally aren't based on any sort of practical research into the products available and their relative performance or on sufficient experience with the various products available and how they perform.
herrwalther
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Personally I use Hoppes lubricating oil, not to be confused with Hoppes 9 solvent. CLP is good for light applications but I don't use it for very dirty firearms or very dry firearms.
I guess I should have said that I use CLP regularly for cleaning (not the bore) and protecting since I have a supply.
Anyway, here's a test someone did to compare corrosion resistance. http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
For wiping down guns, I'll use just about any CLP or oil. But cleaning the bore requires something that will remove tough carbon, copper and lead. CLP or oil aren't made for copper or lead, at least not the Brake Free brand that I use. Bore Tech Eliminator is the best in my experience.
Going back to lube, and this is for Brake Free CLP, it seems much thinner than the motor oil I use and doesn't tend to "stay on" as long as oil.
Anyway, here's a test someone did to compare corrosion resistance. http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
For wiping down guns, I'll use just about any CLP or oil. But cleaning the bore requires something that will remove tough carbon, copper and lead. CLP or oil aren't made for copper or lead, at least not the Brake Free brand that I use. Bore Tech Eliminator is the best in my experience.
Going back to lube, and this is for Brake Free CLP, it seems much thinner than the motor oil I use and doesn't tend to "stay on" as long as oil.
FL-NC
Member
Just to clarify- I was referring to the CLP issued by the Army and my practical experience with it. I was not aware that there was more than 1 CLP in existence. We only used CLP as a rust barrier for our weapons, except rifles, which were usually spray painted. MPRO-7 solvent or shooter's choice solvent was used on sniper rifles (and sometimes on M4's and handguns). Carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner was the solvent used on machine guns/crew served or REALLY dirty M4s and handguns. TW25 white grease was used as a lube on bolts, springs, and other moving parts on everything. We fired a lot of rounds in some of the worst conditions available (dust, extreme heat, extreme cold, after salt water immersion. etc.) and these techniques insured reliable function with no issues to service life of our weapons systems, even though the items used were not authorized and against pretty much every regulation written.
Arkansas Paul
Member
And here I've been using Hoppes gun oil and Rem oil all these years. I feel silly now. 
Hanzo581
Member
I just use this. Does everything I need it to do.
FL-NC
Member
I recommend it for BCG's, if that means anything. Another great alternative is white lithium grease from auto zone ($4 a tube- a tube lasts me 6 months or so- 2 range sessions a week). I apply either of these to all surfaces on the BCG as well as the upper receiver walls, on the extractor spring, and into the trigger and hammer springs. These greases will stick to the surfaces, versus an oil that will evaporate, fly out when you fire, and generally create a mess. Residue WILL adhere to the grease, but the grease will still do its job as a lubricant. After I fire 2-300 rounds or so of nasty wolf ammo in my beater AR, most of the grease and carbon are easily wiped out. This technique does wonders on "tight" AR10's too- which I have found to be very finicky if not well lubed.
JTQ
Member
The other question would be, if you're going through a 4 oz bottle of CLP every year, how much ammo are you going through? What is the cost of that 4 oz bottle of CLP compared to the cost of the ammo. I'm pretty sure the lube cost is lost in the noise.Let's say that one is actually using 4 oz of gun lube a year--the 16oz bottle would last 4 years. That means that even if the substitute product is free, the savings is less than $6 a year.
Which brings me to my next question. What are you doing with the annual savings? Investing it in gold?
JTQ
Member
CLP is a category of product not a brand. BreakFree, SLIP2000, Frog Lube, G96, Ballistol, Lucas, Weapon Shield, FP-10, FireClean, SEAL 1, Hoppes, Gunzilla, RAND, etc, all produce a CLP. There are no doubt many others.
If someone expects to eat off their gun, fire it 2,000 rounds underwater between adding lube, and plan on storing your gun 20 feet underwater in the Gulf of Mexico, CLP may not be the best choice for that person. If you want your gun clean enough, lubricated enough, and protected enough from corrosion to function properly under most user's conditions, nearly all CLP's will work just fine.
alsaqr
Member
Never had a problem with gun lube. Gun grease is hard to beat. For years I used plain old 3 in 1 oil for temporary storage and Dexron ATF for long term storage. Then i started using Militec 1 for long term storage. Worked overseas for many years: Was away from home years at a stretch. None of my guns ever rusted. My antique Winchesters are protected with Carnuba wax and Militec 1.
High quality gun oil from Hoppe's , Remington, etc. I know you have to spend a little more but a little goes a long way. How much did you pay and care for your gun. I know a lot of you like motor oil and automatic transmission fluid. I wouldn't put motor oil in my transmission and I wouldn't put ATF in my motor. Neither of them on my guns. I use GUN oil.
Don't. All that other stuff for none gun application is a bad idea.And here I've been using Hoppes gun oil and Rem oil all these years. I feel silly now.
Big7
Member
FL-NC
Member
I honestly don't believe oils from hoppes or remington are high quality at all. This is one of the things that Larry Vickers and I agree on. I do keep a spray can of rem-oil in my truck during hunting season, but its only used before casing my gun to prevent rust until I can get it home and give it a proper cleaning. All that said, I am not opposed to Hoppes cleaning SOLVENT, even though I prefer Mpro7 or shooter's choice. As I stated before, I lube moving parts with grease and i protect the outside finish with cheap motor oil or breakfreee when I can get it free.
The case can't be closed because you gave no supporting evidence or argument for your case. ; )
Kroil is good stuff for some things, but not all gun lubrication IMHO.
I don't have a problem with anyone using anything they wish, just use something often.
I like Rem-Oil, not my favorite, but I think it is good stuff. I like Slip-2000, I like Gun Butter, I like Lucas, I like M-Pro7, I like Tri-Flow, but I also have no qualms about using ATF, or Mobile Synthetic, or Mobile Racing 4T leftover from an oil change on my four wheeler, .....
Just use something.
jaguarxk120
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How true, but oil's used in cars will always exceed requirements needed for gun use.
Mobil 1 syn. oil is a better oil than what is sold as gun oil. Also many of todays gun lubes are just repackaged
off the shelf oil's/lubes made today.
I didn't claim any did. If you had read the first two sentences of post #19 you will see that I cited the manufacturer's recommendation in the context of a 'Light Machine Oil' or 'High Quality Firearms Oil'"
Correct. I specifically reference the concern about chemical changes in oil as it oxidizes in post #19. The second paragaph makes specific reference to vegetable and nut oils because I was responding to the OP and several subsequent posters who were specifically referring to natural oils.
Well, the question you ask about cost savings was made in the edit to post #14 (which was made after my post #19), so when you ask such a question and the next sentence proceeds to tout the economy of BreakFree CLP, to dots pretty much connect themselves.
Big7
Member
The case can't be closed because you gave no supporting evidence or argument for your case. ; )
Kroil is good stuff for some things, but not all gun lubrication IMHO.
I don't have a problem with anyone using anything they wish, just use something often.
I like Rem-Oil, not my favorite, but I think it is good stuff. I like Slip-2000, I like Gun Butter, I like Lucas, I like M-Pro7, I like Tri-Flow, but I also have no qualms about using ATF, or Mobile Synthetic, or Mobile Racing 4T leftover from an oil change on my four wheeler, .....
Just use something.
I have been using it for years. No only on guns but industrial applications too..
Maybe you need to look at the whole site. They make ANYTHING you need.
Case closed.
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