Gun Safes - Bass Pro Shop

[PaulTX]

The time has come in my shooting and reloading hobby that I feel compelled to buy a safe instead of that "next" pistol or rifle. It is painful to consider the possible firearms, accessories, etc. that could be purchased with these dollars!

I'm looking at two safes (or residential security containers as applicable) sold by Bass Pro Shop with Redhead brand name:

Redhead 14, item number 38-897-090-1, $600

Redhead Ranger 12/24, item number 38-897-091-00, $850

The Ranger has some fire protection.

I would appreciate any opinions you may have on these safes or others in this price range. Right now I'm leaning towards the Ranger. A benefit of the Bass Pro Shop is they are located about 30 miles from my house.

Thanks,
Paul

 

[TechBrute]

I'm sure I'm not the only person that will say this, but buy the biggest one you can afford and fit in the house. No matter how big it is, you will run out of room. My first safe has been relegated to the duty of ammo locker.

 

[TechBrute]

I'm sure I'm not the only person that will say this, but buy the biggest one you can afford and fit in the house. No matter how big it is, you will run out of room. My first safe has been relegated to the duty of ammo locker.

 

[CB900F]

Paul;

Another option would be to purchase a minimal RSC & save to get a true safe. The protection differences between RSC's are miniscule at best IMHO.

I spoke with a gentleman at the shop today who's son got him "a helluva deal" on some RSC. When he got home this last Wednesday, all the guns were missing.

You pays yer nickle & you makes yer choice.

900F

 

[JohnBT]

I just looked at the BP site and they don't list the side wall thicknesses for the less expensive safes. The $1499 safe with the deer pic on it says "It's packed with enough features to make it one of the most secure safes made today, including the 12-ga. steel with strong 3/16" plate door"

I think I'd shop around for an RSC with at least 10 gauge sides(1/8" IIRC.) A real safe would be better...and I'm saving up for one too...but meanwhile an RSC is better protection than a closet door.

John

 

[PaulTX]

CB900F - I don't know that I can "allocate" enough resources for a true safe. I'm guessing we are talking over $1,500 for a safe? I'm curious, what RSC was it that was looted?

I was at the Sportsman's Warehouse Friday and was looking at the Browning Bridger safe that looks pretty interesting for a little over $700. Any opinions on this safe? It has a 12 gauge steel body, 3/16 plate door, 1" bolts, S&G Group II lock, and UL tool attack listed.

 

[CB900F]

Paul;

The gentleman couldn't remember the name of the RSC that was burgled, but did remember that it was produced in Utah by employees who had left Liberty or Browning. Which would probably make it a Heritage or Champion. But that's making a guess from suspect data you understand.

My take on RSC's is; don't spend more than you have to, to accomplish the basic purpose. As I said, the protection differences are minimal, with none of them being good. So don't pay more than you have to, for no gain other than glossier paint, shag carpet, or a decal 'painting'. None of which enhances the protection of your goods.

A true safe is almost certainly going to run you something in the $3,000.00 range. Or, about the cost of two good guns. Browning Citori and a Winchester Classic mdl 70 with Leupold glass for instance. If you've got at least the 3k in guns now, & know you're going to be getting more firearms, you need a true safe.

If you go the RSC route, which is better than nothing, but not much, use stealth. Don't brag about your guns & hide and/or disguise the container. And, good luck.

900F

 

[TechBrute]

900,

What brand constitutes a "true safe"? Thanks.

T

 

[CB900F]

Tech;

Anything that meets the U.L. specs for 'B' level or higher. In ascending order: B, C, E, TL15, TL30, TLTR, TLTR X 6.

Do a search for RSC also.

900F

 

[patentnonsense]

The nice thing about true safes is that they last forever, and a large one will be big enough for a gun safe. Call the real safe dealers in your area and ask them whether they deal in used safes. For 1500 you can find something large enough and FAR more resistant to fire and burglars.

 

[PaulTX]

I've just started doing some searching on a more serious safes and found Brown Safe. To get a true safe with just 15 minutes of "burglery resistance is a ER rating these are very heavy and expensive:

Information on Safes

I don't think I could handle a 1,000 pound safe in my house. Even with professional help, getting that amount of weight into the room I need it in would probably mess up the carpet. I'm not real concerned about the weight on the floor itself as my house is single story on a slab. If you got a safe for a moderate collection of pistols and rifles the weight would increase to 1,300 pounds and more.

How fast could a thief get into say the Browning Bridger safe (which appears to be a typical RSC) and what type of tools would it take?

I think I'll have to go with a somewhat hidden RSC safe.

 

[CB900F]

PaulTX;

How long into a Browning? About 15 min absolute tops for a reasonable ninny. Brute force entry that is. Min time? Maybe 5 min, perhaps less. I'm not going to tell anyone what type of tools to use on the web.

Almost all the safes we sell run over 1000 lbs. We know how to get them across your carpet without damage. Just lay some 1/2" plywood cut into 2 X 8 sheets. We use thicker, but then we use & re-use it too.

900F

 

[PaulTX]

CB900F,

Thanks for the information. My purchasing decision will be more informed if not easier!

 

[Fred Fuller]

PaulTX,

Your safe should be delivered by someone who knows how to move them- mine was installed by the man who made it, and it was amazing to se it done ( http://www.shooterschoiceplus.com/drake.htm ). Not a scratch anywhere in the house or on the safe, and we moved it all the way to the back of the house, just the two of us. And it weighs better than 1600 pounds... . CB900F knows whereof he speaks.

lpl/nc