a1abdj
Member
The first thing I noticed is when I pulled one of the plugs off the floor that covers where you bolt it down. I noticed there is just sheet rock in there, and not this drylight that is advertised in the walls. Why is that?
In non UL rated safes, the floors are always lightly insulated, if at all. The bottom 2" of the safe will not get very hot in a fire.
As far as why they use a raised floor, and not the cement fill, it's due to the construction method. The body of the safe, minus the bottom, is set upside down. The material is pumped in from the bottom, then the bottom of the safe is added.
The second thing I noticed is that both side walls and the back wall bulge slightly. Now, this is probably something most people wouldn't even notice, but I saw it right off the bat. I was a journey level machinist for years, so stuff like that sticks out for me. Is this because of the way the drylight is injected into the walls? This store had a bunch of wooded yard sticks for measuring the safes if you needed to. I laid one of these yard sticks on edge on the side and back walls. They definitely bulge out some in the middle. I thought maybe it was just that paticular safe, so I tried it on another BF 6030 and it was the same way.
This is normal, and is also seen in most other gun safes out there. When you're building something out of sheet steel, it's not going to be completely square.
The front door wall of course was very flat.
Difference between plate and sheet.