Gunsmithing tools

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CopperFouling

CopperFouling

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Does anyone have a recommendation for some gunsmithing screwdrivers and punches? I checked into Grace screwdrivers, but the Amazon reviews are...somewhat variable. I prefer American-made tools, but I've also used some good German wrenches and pliers tools at work. Thanks.

By the way, I am not looking to bubba any of my firearms. I just want the proper tools handy when I need to tighten a screw or perform other minor tasks (or replace an extractor on my Buck Mark, which is something that needs to be done soon).
 
These are well regarded
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...a-tip-sets/magna-tip-super-sets--prod417.aspx


I have these
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ixed-blade-sets/screwdriver-set-prod6739.aspx

And like them pretty well. The thin ones bend if you put a lot of torque on them. but you shouldn't be putting a lot of torque on them anyway.
I have these and like them
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...tools/punches/roll-pin-punches-prod38883.aspx

and these are very handy
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...h-tools/punches/roll-pin-holders-prod781.aspx
 
I have the Wheeler Engineering larger screwdriver set. has tons of sizes and special bits. I use the Grace punches, not bad. I have the W.E. roll punch/roll punch starter sets and the inch pound screwdriver to mount scopes and such.
 
Brownells, Wheeler, and Chapman screwdriver/bit sets in that order, if you want to exchange tips and just have a couple of handles. If you can find older U.S. made bits, then so much the better. Wheeler and Chapman (I think) use imported Chinese stuff so the bits are a bit softer and can bend under hard usage. Brownell bits, I haven't had that problem which I have with Wheeler. Have a Chapman set just for the screwdriver ratchet.

Grace is one of the few mfgs of individual screwdrivers to have hollowground tips on their screwdrivers so it is bit more convenient if you have the right sizes for your screws and like wood handles which I do not.
 
I went to one of those formal schools for the gunsmith trade. We were issued the Brownells Mag-na-tip screwdriver sets. I have only broken one or two bits and it was when working on something really messed up like trying to unscrew an action screw on a rifle that was bedded without release agent. For punches I prefer the craftsman variety because when I break the 1/16" punch (and it happens a lot) I get a free replacement. I would buy Snap-on punches but they are a little out of my price range. FWIW I bought a Wheeler 89 piece set when it went on sale at Midway for $35 one time. I thought it was a mistake on their end but I bought it anyway. They honored the price and I got my set. A 4oz ball peen hammer and a set of quality dental pics are also indispensable.
 
Brownells Magnatip screwdrivers, as big a set as you can afford.
I use nothing but Starrett pin punches. They sell a set in a handy wood block. Look on eBay for used or incomplete sets and replace individual as needed from Brownells. Buy extra 1/16 punches, they do break.
You also need a good quality ball peen hammer or two, 4 and 8 ounce to start with.
 
Anything that has the word 'gunsmith' or 'gunsmith's' in its name just costs more. Most smithies make the tools they use. Mostly because those bits that come with the sets are expensive to replace. Those bits being designed to break before the screw gets damaged.
A set of regular screwdrivers found in any hardware store will do the same job. You can grind 'em to fit.
 
Depends on what your doing as far as what you need goes, but I have a few items that I like, and a few more coming from my folks at Christmas.

Punches...anything will work, but you need to get a set that has both long and short in a variety of sizes. You will likely find yourself trying to start a pin with a flat tipped punch and that is tough. They make starter punches for this and they are really nice to have but aren't an absolute necessity. You may want a special punch to stake threaded parts, usually not necessary...loctite works.

Hammer...you want a couple. You want a lightweight brass/plastic headed hammer to not mar your finish. You also might want one a tad heavier for staking or other tough jobs.

Screwdrivers...buy the proper tools and whine about the price for a few days. Buy once cry once, better to cry over expensive tools than over a scratch on an expensive gun. If your heavy handed like me, buy the wheeler FAT so you don't overtorque everything and strip threads in the process.

Vice...small with soft, replaceable, square jaws. For times you wish you had more hands. Use heavy leather to pad the jaws and protect the guns.

Picks...buy a cheap set, but buy a set. The goofy angled ones are really helpful more often than you would imagine.

Specialty tools...they aren't cheap. There is a used market, but looks stuff over closely to make sure it's used but not abused.
 
Not touched on is the reason for buying gunsmithing screwdrivers over generic. The screw slots have parallel sides. Generic screwdrivers have wedge shaped blades, so they will only contact the screws at the to edge. Compounding the problem is that the screws may have a domed head so the contact point becomes very small. Boogered screws are the result. Select a screwdriver the fills the slot in width and just short of length. That will provide a much larger contact patch while keeping the outer edges of the blade from gouging the metal or wood around the circumference of the hole. Standard blades can be ground to fit, but that requires additional tooling and/or skill to do so.
 
I have the Brownells screwdrivers. The short shank, full handle version is usually what I pick up first. Any of the 1/4" hex handles will do, it is the grind, size, and quality of the tips that counts.

I have the Brownells replaceable tip punches. Impossible to keep the cheesy collets tight. An assortment of solid punches would work better. Just use the shortest one possible and keep spares of the small sizes.

I get by with needlenose pliers but the next time I order anything, I will get a good stout forceps for holding small stuff in tight corners.
 
Jim Watson said:
I have the Brownells replaceable tip punches. Impossible to keep the cheesy collets tight. An assortment of solid punches would work better. Just use the shortest one possible and keep spares of the small sizes.
Click to expand...

This is one of the very few legitimate gunsmithing uses for Red Loctite (No. 271). With that modification, which can be undone with a heat gun, those replaceable tip punches are great.

Bill Jacobs
 
I have a Wheeler set on my bench at home, but I prefer the Brownell's for the above mentioned reasons. The shops I've worked in all had them, and usually some Grace screwdrivers also. Starrett for punches.
 
I don't rely much on factory screwdrivers, other than the Chapman set when I need something with a ratchet like they have. I take most of my screwdrivers and hollow grind tips on them. Trying to find a screwdriver that fits something like a Browning A-5 can be interesting if you don't grind your own. It doesn't take much time to grind out a screwdriver tip and I would guess most gunsmiths do some of this same stuff.
 
I buy old screwdrivers from garage sales or Ebay, and re grind or cut on the mill with carbide.
I then mark them for what they fit.
I have a compulsive habit of buying guns, screwdrivers, chisels, and reloading brass.
I have so many screwdrivers that only a tiny fraction can be near a work area.
Last night I disassembled and cleaned a Stanley Yankee 233H like my cousin had in 1961 when we were both10 years old. It was so well designed and built, it was like taking a good gun apart.
 

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I have been very happy with my Chapman set. It has been great for my S&W revolvers. It's compact size and many drive options make it really handy around the house and garage for other non-gun tasks also.
 
I've used Brownells mag tip sets since 1973 when I started my small rural gun shop. It's still going strong with replacement bit as needed.
Brownells and Craftsman compose most of my gunsmith tools.
Catpop
 
I still have a complete set of Grace drivers in my tool box. The only thing I use them for is prying open paint cans. All of the tips were ground un-parallel and tapered like a cheap hardware store driver. They didn't used to be this bad but they are now that they're made in China. Brownells drivers are the last set you'll ever buy and if you break one they replace it no questions asked. If you're on a tight budget buy the Chapman set and learn how to grind bits to fit the screw you need to turn. That is a primary skill every smith must learn.
 
I have the Brownell's set on my bench and an old (1970s) Chapman set that lives in my range bag. Someone said the Chapman bits are made in China - not so, I don't think. I believe they're made right here in the good ol' USA. The Chapman ratchet is a GREAT tool when you need to get a bit into a small area and can't fit a handle in. It has saved me many times... not generally on firearms, but lots of other places.
 
If you're on a tight budget talk to the Brownells tech guys and ask about specific bits to fit your particular gun(s). Since you can buy them individually you could tailor a set just for the gun(s) you have.
 
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