Have to blast before re-parkerizing?

[chibiker]

I have a Colt M1911 made in 1918 when going by serial number. At some point in it's life it went through an arsenal rebuild... stamped with an AA for Augusta Arsenal. The gun is 100% as far as functionality and is a great shooter. The parkerizing that was done to it during the rebuild has become really thin to the point of being almost non-existant in some places.

For preservation purposes I would like to get it refinished. My question is whenever I read about having a pistol reparked it is always stated that it is bead blasted first. Well it already was blasted once to remove the bluing and since it is a parkerized finish on it now... does it HAVE to be bead blasted again? All the markings on it are still there, inspectors marks, acceptance marks, roll marks on slide, etc, ect. and I want them to remain as legible and clear as possible... seems to me reblasting it would not be the kindest thing to do. They do all kinds of coatings using a parked finish as a base coat, can't you just parkerize on top of an old parkerized finish?

Any recommendations on a good shop in the Chicago area would be appreciated as well.

 

[justashooter in pa]

you should not restore that gun, under any circumstances. it's condition, even refurbed, is a significant part of it's historical and monetary value. it may be worth more than $1000 as it sits. if you "restore" it you will reduce it's monetary value by 30%, and it's historical value as well.

that being said, park will not take over anything but near-white blast, that is, bare metal that has not been contaminated by oils or surface rust that you will not even see. some people have parked over sandpapered finish, with mixed results, you need fresh glass bead blast that has not been handled for a good park finish.

 

[chibiker]

Well, I guess that answers my question as to whether or not it has to be reblasted, dang that kinda sucks. Thank you for the info.

As far as the value goes, there always seems to be some debate about that. I see many times where there is a group that believes once refinished, it's just that, a refinished gun. It will never be in it's original condition again. Others, along the lines of what you are saying think they should never have anything done to the finish regardless of the condition.
The key to the value of this gun is that it is a constant to me at least. I inherited it from my Uncle, paperwork I have indicates it was is service issued sidearm. I never intend to sell it, it wouldn't matter if you told me it was worth a dollar or 100,000.

 

[Oro]

I see many times where there is a group that believes once refinished, it's just that, a refinished gun.

Correct, but from your initial description it sounds like it's still carrying its US arsenal refinish, which nowadays is even desirable to 1911 buyers - since orig. finished military guns are priced well past most folks' budgets.

If you want to carry it and shoot it a lot, and it's got 80% or less finish, then it would indeed make sense to re-Parkerize it. However, if you have "paperwork" on it (like a CMP sales slip or something?) that makes it more compelling to keep it as-is. These things are hard to decide - no flat rule. Do you even know the gun is 100% correct and not a mixed parts gun like so many GI service guns?

 

[chibiker]

Oro, thanks for the response. Since the finish on the gun matches on all the parts I would agree it indeed has the US arsenal refinish on it. I would be much happier if it did have 80% of that finish left though, as it is now I would say it's more like 60% at best. Front strap, leading edge of trigger guard, forward top section of slide are almost completely devoid of finish and the rest is pretty thin.
I do shoot it now and then, this was the first gun I ever shot and I was all of about seven when that hand cannon went off under my control. Not sure what the look was on my face but I know I will never forget the look on my Uncle's. As far as carrying it... until I move out of Illinois (sooner the better) or we join the rest of the country that won't happen. When carry does become available to me it indeed will more than likely be my carry gun. My Uncle was a millwright after he got out of the service and traveled all over the country on various projects.... this gun was with him everywhere he went.

I know if he were alive today he would probably be shakin' his head at the idea of me spending any money at all on "dressin' up that old horse" but inside I know he would appreciate the why I would want to.

Oh, and as far as being 100% percent correct... how could one know? The frame is a 1918, the slide on it would have been the right one for that time period. It has the traditional Augusta Arsenal trigger in it. Main spring housing is that of a 1911A1, although the ribbing on it indicates it too is a Colt part. The hammer is a Colt, not sure about the slide stop and thumb safety. So no, not correct as to original configuration, correct as in all the parts were installed at Augusta? Could be.... on the other hand, my Uncle collected, traded and sold a lot of wartime firearms, he could have done some parts swapping on it.

 

[justashooter in pa]

it's your gun, so you do what you want to. finding an auto body shop or some such with a bead blaster should not be difficult, but a hobby gunsmith is the right guy to invite you into his shop to do the work yourself. i have a blasting booth in the workshop in south central penna. lots of guys do.

be sure you use glass bead, or, at worst, fine garnet (starblast), and be sure to get some aluminum ducting tape to tape up the slide mating surfaces and areas that should not be blasted. playground sand gives you silicosis, and coarse garnet monkeys with your surface finish too much.

 

[DBR]

You need to abrasive blast it with fine aluminum oxide - not a bead blast. The aluminum oxide will provide the correct surface profile.