Help me de-NYify my AR-15

[archigos]

I bought a Bushmaster XM-15 a couple years ago in NY. I've since escaped to NH.
I know of two things off the top of my head that Bushmaster did because it was sold in NY. First, they welded the muzzle brake... I know that the only fix for this is a new barrel.
Secondly, they did something to the castle nut and it is definitely not removable at this point with just a castle wrench (I tried some WD-40 too). Any idea what they did? Any idea how to get it off? I want to replace the receiver end plate and eventually the stock.
Anything else they would've done to this anybody can think of, and any way to undo the damage?

Thanks.

 

[B!ngo]

I bought a Bushmaster XM-15 a couple years ago in NY. I've since escaped to NH.
I know of two things off the top of my head that Bushmaster did because it was sold in NY. First, they welded the muzzle brake... I know that the only fix for this is a new barrel.
Secondly, they did something to the castle nut and it is definitely not removable at this point with just a castle wrench (I tried some WD-40 too). Any idea what they did? Any idea how to get it off? I want to replace the receiver end plate and eventually the stock.
Anything else they would've done to this anybody can think of, and any way to undo the damage?

Thanks.

I'm not a complete expert here and I am sure you will hear from others quite knowledgable but I do live in CA where we have similar restrictions.
The muzzle brake is likely just pinned rather that welded or if welded just a tack to make it impossible to unscrew. Ultimately they are all screwed in to a threaded barrel and then affixed with something that requires tools to remove. So I doubt you will need to replace the barrel.
Re the castle nut, I would also be very surprised if it is permanently affixed. Perhaps a New Yorker can speak up here (I'm an ex-NY'er) but that isn't done in CA. I suspect it's just stuck and you will need something better than WD40 to help loosen it before you apply the castle nut wrench.
You likely also have a mag lock of some type which is easily replaced, and you'll be able to buy some 30-round magazines once they fill back up in stores after the recent run on them
Good luck and good move,
B

 

[archigos]

Thanks B1ngo... you're right, it may be that the castle nut is just badly stuck, but I have no idea how to budge it if that's the case. Not sure on the muzzle brake.
On magazines, I'm pretty good... got a couple Thermold pre-bans from my time in NY and recently accidentally bought 6 Troy Battlemags... 3 more coming in FDE to match the rest of the furniture. No mag locks in NY.

 

[Auto426]

Muzzle breaks are usually pinned in place and then the head of the pin is welded over. You can try drilling out the welded spot on the bottom of the flash hider to see if you can get it to come off or just replace the barrel.

As far as the castle nut goes, it's probably staked (possibly locktite as well). If you look at the nut itself, there are several small notches in it. If the nut was staked, metal from the end plate will have been "pushed" into those notches using a punch or similar device. This can make removing the castle nut difficult, but not impossible. There are several tutorials online if you look around.

 

[Outlaw Man]

If New Hampshire allows, you could consider having a place like ADCO cut, rethread, and recrown it as an SBR. Of course, after your tax stamp and everything, it'll cost more than a new barrel.

I normally wouldn't even mention it, but pretty much everyone is sold out of barrels, so this route MIGHT be quicker.

 

[MrCleanOK]

I suspect that your castle nut has been loc-tited. A little heat may solve your problem. This is why the castle nut DOES NOT get loc-tite.

 

[Quentin]

The castle nut on my friend's Bushmaster was Loctited, not staked. A pain to get loose.

 

[pseudonymity]

You can probably save the barrel - they are usually blind pinned and the pin welded over. Check the underside of the brake - see any uneven spots? Start with a drill bit that is a larger diameter than the pin, and drill through the first .125" or so of weld, or just grind off the weld until you can see the pin. The brake is going to be a lost cause of course, but one you can see the pin diameter, you should be able to drill it out and then unscrew the brake.

If you have a really steady hand, you can just use a small cutting wheel to cut the brake on both sides and split it down the middle and remove it that way as well, but there is more risk to the barrel threads that way.

 

[bogon48]

There is lots of good info above. Anyway, Windham Weaponry (originally Bushmaster) put out a newsletter article on the guns they make for NY and other ban compliant states. It gives some information on how their rifles are modified, including the stocks. I also read on another site that some manufacturers used Loctite on the castle nut - resulting in mangled nuts and busted wrenches. See:

http://www.windhamweaponry.com/newsletters/09202012.asp

Of course, you could try to call Bushmaster too.

 

[Skylerbone]

Quickest way would be to leave the brake where it is if you don't plan to replace it, buy an agency style plate and replace the stock with one you like.