Help with a Smith and Wesson 686

[maxxhavoc]

I am just about fed up with this gun. It will not reliably reset the trigger after shooting. The last "click" in the cycle does not always happen unless you slip your finger off the trigger to let it slam forward.

If I return the trigger forward slowly, the next time I pull the trigger the cylinder rotates but the hammer does not move.

There's maybe 150 rounds through it in 6 years. What component/surface should I concentrate on to see what the issue is? It's too pretty to sit in the safe.

 

[Bazoo]

The parts that control that are the "rebound slide" and "rebound slide spring".

I assume it's a used gun? It is pretty common for people to change the spring to get a lighter trigger pull, too light, and you get what you experience. 18lb is the stock part weight.

Here is the spring https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1004442332?pid=318381

Here is the rebound slide https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1004526254?pid=875206

If there is a burr on the hammer or rebound slide where they mate, it could cause failure to reset. It would be easy enough to remove the burr if one is present.

 

[BBBBill]

Before opening your revolver, do you know how to do it without damaging the fit of the sideplate? Many don't and their effort result in bent, scratched, or otherwise damage parts. Depending on vintage take care to return the screws to the original holes. The two domed screws are identical other than the front one being hand fitted to retain the yoke as well as retain the side plate. There's more than that to proper damage free disassembly. As before proceeding if you don't know. Some parts are no longer available from S&W. I hate to see a gun damaged by lack of knowledge.

 

[Col. Harrumph]

This ^^^^ plus: you say it's a seldom-used gun. Lord only knows what sort of care it got before you bought it. Before taking the side plate off, why not squirt some One Shot down in there beside the hammer and up in there beside the trigger? If that frees things up then go ahead and pop the plate off and give the innards a good flush.

 

[Sovblocgunfan]

Buy the kuhnhausen book before proceeding. It will help. With it I was able to rescue a coffee can K-frame that is now a wonderful shooter.

 

[maxxhavoc]

Thanks, that gives me something to look at.

This is the video of the issue:
Link - might take a while to load...

It was a brand new 686-6 when I bought it. The first time I called them (<2 months after purchase) , they said it would cost me to ship it to them for evaluation. It sat in the safe since I have a perfectly fine Taurus 66. It is only seldom used because it is completely unreliable.

After hearing many times how good their warranty was, I called again, they paid for shipping, evaluated, and replaced the Extractor Rod, which didn't change anything as far as I can tell.
I think there is a disconnect between the person who answers the phone (and gets the emails with a video demonstrating the issue) and the person fixing the gun.

 

[maxxhavoc]

I opened the sideplate to see what was going on. No burrs on the slide or hammer. No wear on the slide either, so it looks like they may have swapped that out. It also looks like they removed anything tht looks like lubrication from inside too.

I got it to misbehave and get the sideplate off. I moved the hammer slightly back and forth to get it to "click." The DA Sear just doesn't want to pop in. Just a bit of pressure back and forth does it.
So just for more information:
Another Video

 

[a5werkes]

It may be the trigger-hammer sear engagement needs some light grease....hard to tell if the double-action fly is snagging on the trigger sear; may be a light polishing of those surfaces. It could also be the double-action fly needs to "let-out" a very tiny bit.

 

[W.E.G.]

So no lubrication.

Simple remedy: With the sideplate off, drown it in Break Free CLP. Mop up the excess. Go shooting.

 

[BBBBill]

Looks like the double action fly needs some fitting. Kuhnhausen doesn't cover these latest generation guns with the redesigned MIM guts, but the basic priciples are the same. Study that book and do a little mental correlation to the new aparts. Should get you fixed up. I second the lube suggestion. That sucker is DRY.

 

[a5werkes]

I studied up on the double-action fly a few years ago, so this is my understanding that I cobbled together, as well as the nomenclature for the S&W hammer & trigger.

The term "let-out" is descriptive of the process for a topic that is only mentioned in a few isolated sentences (p. 71-72, Kuhnhausen Manual, 5th Ed.) and a single poor diagram only as the factory "zero DA let-out" clearance. No description as how to increase / decrease the let-out, nor where the actual point on the fly where adjustments are made.

Some may find it useful. I would welcome any corrections regarding this topic.

 

[BBBBill]

Some may find it useful. I would welcome any corrections regarding this topic.

That is my interpretation of the correct method and the procedure that I have used successfully on the few that I've done. I do see one probelm. You misspelled "uppppppppper".

 

[a5werkes]

You misspelled "uppppppppper".

Indeed. I saw that in the screen shot from the document......it was even underlined in red by the software....too lazy to change in the post..it's changed now!

 

[BBBBill]

Indeed. I saw that in the screen shot from the document......it was even underlined in red by the software....too lazy to change in the post..it's changed now!

Mishpelinng are my speshultee.