I purchased 3 black powder revolvers off of a friend that found them while moving. They were his dads, but he is not into revolves so i bought them for $20 a piece. They are Armi San Marco replicas. They have not been fired if at all, in a very long time. they are all single action. When I try and cock the hammer back on one, there is a noticeable spot where it gets very tight and then moves freely again. The hammer falls all the way to ignition when the trigger is pulled. Another one is just very hard to cock, but still falls freely once the trigger is pulled. Do these just need a little tlc and good cleaning? Or are these replicas not worth shooting? Thanks guys
help with black powder revolvers...
- Thread starter brian923
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Panzerschwein
member
I recommend you post this in the black powder section. Those guys know what's up.
Malachi Leviticus Blue
Member
Also very common to have cap fragments fall into the works. This can cause all kinds of havoc.
These revolvers are pretty simple, so if you think you can handle breaking it down you shouldn't have any trouble.
The first thing I would do is break it down clean it up and check for cap fragments etc. Reassemble and oil. Then see what's what.
These revolvers are pretty simple, so if you think you can handle breaking it down you shouldn't have any trouble.
The first thing I would do is break it down clean it up and check for cap fragments etc. Reassemble and oil. Then see what's what.
Crawdad1
Member
I think they're worth the effort to clean them up and get them back in shooting condition.
Starter52
Member
If they have never been fired then likely you have packing "gunk" inside that has hardened and will need to be flushed out. Armi San Marco revolvers were decent guns worth the effort to save.
BCRider
Member
There is nothing at all wrong with these ASM revolvers. Likely as not they are just grunged up with congealed oil.
Something to watch for is that many BP percussion revolvers will have stronger hammer springs than you're used to finding on cartridge guns. This is so the hammer better resists the pressure blowback through the nipples that blows the caps off.
Something to watch for is that many BP percussion revolvers will have stronger hammer springs than you're used to finding on cartridge guns. This is so the hammer better resists the pressure blowback through the nipples that blows the caps off.
J-Bar
Member
If you are not committed to getting into blackpowder shooting, you can sell them for more than you paid for them. I am not in the market for ASM personally, but there are those who would be interested.
Since you got them for so little money, you could consider them an educational investment. As previously noted, the internals are simple, and with a good screwdriver they can be disassembled and cleaned and lubed easily.
Here is a link to a Uberti instruction manual for their percussion revolvers. ASM should look and operate the same, although Uberti parts probably will not be exact replacements for ASM parts. Expect the flat springs, the hand spring and the sear/bolt spring, to break sometime. Then you will find out about replacements!
http://www.uberti.com/sites/default/files/originals/product-manuals/black_powder_revolvers.pdf
A search on YouTube for percussion revolvers brings up several videos demonstrating disassembly and reassembly. Indulge yourself.
Good luck, and hope you enjoy the addiction.
Since you got them for so little money, you could consider them an educational investment. As previously noted, the internals are simple, and with a good screwdriver they can be disassembled and cleaned and lubed easily.
Here is a link to a Uberti instruction manual for their percussion revolvers. ASM should look and operate the same, although Uberti parts probably will not be exact replacements for ASM parts. Expect the flat springs, the hand spring and the sear/bolt spring, to break sometime. Then you will find out about replacements!
http://www.uberti.com/sites/default/files/originals/product-manuals/black_powder_revolvers.pdf
A search on YouTube for percussion revolvers brings up several videos demonstrating disassembly and reassembly. Indulge yourself.
Good luck, and hope you enjoy the addiction.
Thank you all for all the advice.. the same gentleman had a ruger old army that he shot twice. He removed the grips for some reason and lost them over the years. He said he wanted a $100 bill for it. I'll be picking it up this week from him.. looks like I just got bite by the BP bug....
J-Bar
Member
Good heavens!! Any grips that fit Ruger old model Vaqueros will fit the Old Army. You made a steal!
Patocazador
Member
Grips are NOT a problem. Make sure you buy that Ruger.
Noz
Member
I don't like Rugers but I would be all over that deal.
ASM guns. Lay a bath towel out on the kitchen counter and disassemble the guns, one at a time. Spray with Dawn, let soak and rub clean. Water is your friend. Oil and reassemble. Most of your problems will be solved.
ASM guns. Lay a bath towel out on the kitchen counter and disassemble the guns, one at a time. Spray with Dawn, let soak and rub clean. Water is your friend. Oil and reassemble. Most of your problems will be solved.
BCRider
Member
Good point. If you want to dry fire the guns then use a thin strip of something that fits in the hammer space to cushion the hammer fall. It needs to quite thin so that it allows the action to reset. But anything soft that is roughly 1/16" or a hair less will work. I like using a strip of leather.
By rights the guns are supposed to stop the hammer a hair before they hit the nipples. But this is such a small amount that many guns are out of adjustment and the nipples can be damaged by the hammer. Using a slip of cushioning matieral is just cheap insurance.
An old flexible plastic food storage container lid can be cut and the plastic is just right for thickness and cushioning ability. I don't know about your kitchen but mine always seems to have a lid from some container that is long missing.
My question arose from Brian's statements about trigger pull.
My General Ignorance Level was stratospherically high when I acquired my first Italian percussion .36 over four decades ago.
I did dry-fire it a tiny bit, till I noticed it was ringing the hammer face & stopped before it was damaged to the point of interfering with reliable ignition.
Since then, I've seen other hammers with nipple rings (of the non-jewelry type), and my newest '60 Army already has one, despite only being dry-fired ONCE by accident, when I lost count in a 5-shot firing string & it fell on an un-occupied nipple.
I've seen an 1866 original 60 Army with damage to hammer & cylinder done by kids allowed to play with it as a toy, dry-firing.
I don't ever count on tolerances being close enough to stop the hammer face just before striking an un-capped nipple.
Dry-fire in a percussion gun risks damage to hammer AND nipples.
My question was a caution to Brian, since he may not know this.
Denis
My General Ignorance Level was stratospherically high when I acquired my first Italian percussion .36 over four decades ago.
I did dry-fire it a tiny bit, till I noticed it was ringing the hammer face & stopped before it was damaged to the point of interfering with reliable ignition.
Since then, I've seen other hammers with nipple rings (of the non-jewelry type), and my newest '60 Army already has one, despite only being dry-fired ONCE by accident, when I lost count in a 5-shot firing string & it fell on an un-occupied nipple.
I've seen an 1866 original 60 Army with damage to hammer & cylinder done by kids allowed to play with it as a toy, dry-firing.
I don't ever count on tolerances being close enough to stop the hammer face just before striking an un-capped nipple.
Dry-fire in a percussion gun risks damage to hammer AND nipples.
My question was a caution to Brian, since he may not know this.
Denis
First of all the observations concerning dry firing are spot-on.
As a point of interest, "back in the day" when the Colt factory was turning out the original C&B revolvers, final assemblers had two kinds of nipples with one having a longer cone then the other. They would usually start with a short-cone, and if it was too short switch to a long one. In the unlikely event the long one was too long, they would shorten the cone for an almost-but-not-quite-hammer-impact, and then duplicate it 4 or 5 more times, depending on the model revolver. In cased sets they sometimes included an extra set of pre-fitted nipples.
When the hammer falls it should be stopped by hitting the frame, and the hammer's nose should be just short of hitting the cone. If adjustments are necessary, make then on the nipples.
When I am tuning an action which may include an extraordinary amount of dry firing I remove the nipples before starting.
As a point of interest, "back in the day" when the Colt factory was turning out the original C&B revolvers, final assemblers had two kinds of nipples with one having a longer cone then the other. They would usually start with a short-cone, and if it was too short switch to a long one. In the unlikely event the long one was too long, they would shorten the cone for an almost-but-not-quite-hammer-impact, and then duplicate it 4 or 5 more times, depending on the model revolver. In cased sets they sometimes included an extra set of pre-fitted nipples.
When the hammer falls it should be stopped by hitting the frame, and the hammer's nose should be just short of hitting the cone. If adjustments are necessary, make then on the nipples.
When I am tuning an action which may include an extraordinary amount of dry firing I remove the nipples before starting.
The first is the ruger old army. I have the original box. I don't know what else it would have come with if anything. I have a set of grips on the way for it. The second pic is: 2 top guns are Armi san marco 44 cal. Both have ship engravings on the cylinders. One is octagon barreled and the other is round barrel. The third one is marked Dixie gun works on the top of the octagon barrel and says new army on the side. Also 44 caliber. Thanks for all you help guys. It is VERY appreciated.
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J-Bar
Member
Ball park guesses;
The Ruger should go for $400, and the ASMs could probably bring $100 to $150 each without much trouble.
So, you did well.
Take your friend out to dinner!
The Ruger should go for $400, and the ASMs could probably bring $100 to $150 each without much trouble.
So, you did well.
Take your friend out to dinner!
il.bill
Member
Black powder revolver "snap caps" info here - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=771875
They work pretty well if properly fitted, and let you work the action without damage to the nipple or hammer.
J-Bar probably has the revolver values pretty close. Hang on to that Ruger Old Army as long as you can - if you ever want to get into black powder handgun shooting it would be hard to do any better than that one. I suspect you would come to regret getting rid of it, unless you made a really great trade for something you really want instead.
They work pretty well if properly fitted, and let you work the action without damage to the nipple or hammer.
J-Bar probably has the revolver values pretty close. Hang on to that Ruger Old Army as long as you can - if you ever want to get into black powder handgun shooting it would be hard to do any better than that one. I suspect you would come to regret getting rid of it, unless you made a really great trade for something you really want instead.
elhombreconnonombre
Member
brian923
The last time I came across an Old Army it came with a instruction manual and nipple wrench tool. The manuals and tools can be found on ebay and gunbroker. That was a year ago and my LGS wanted $395.
The last time I came across an Old Army it came with a instruction manual and nipple wrench tool. The manuals and tools can be found on ebay and gunbroker. That was a year ago and my LGS wanted $395.
Hey guys, i wanted to thank you all for all your help with these revolvers. I would like to sell these pistols as i need to build a couple guns for my children. i disassembled the one pistol that was giving me problems and it looked like a small piece of cap broke off and wedged down inside by the hammer. i would like to offer these pistols for sale to you guys first since you were willing to give me help. Im asking $125 each for the ASM brass pistols and the dixie gun works pistol. and $375 for the ruger. i have a set of pistol grips coming for the ruger. i would love to work out a deal if you would like to buy multiples and or the whole lot. Thanks again for all your help! i can be PM'ed here or you can email me at [email protected]. i also have pictures i can send to those who are interested. thanks again, brian.
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