Hogue Mono-Grip Question

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Mind the Gap

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I just recently acquired an old Smith and Wesson Model 10 that had been a police issue. It has the usual signs of holster wear, but the grips that it came with were atrocious, so I decided to get some nice hardwood Hogue Mono-Grips. They look fantastic on the gun, but the back of the frame is not flush with the back of the grips. The instructions say to use tape to shim the front of the grips so the back will be flush with the frame, but I have no idea what kind of tape to use. Any one else have this problem? If so, did you use tape like the instructions say, and if so what kind?
 
Good timing! I just did the same thing this last weekend. The grips extended about 1/16" beyond the backstrap. I stacked several layers of electrical tape and then cut the stack into a piece about 0.3" long and the width of the front strap. I stuck this on the frontstrap directly below the strain screw. It worked fine, although the tape tended to come off when installing the grip. It was better if I made sure the width was no bigger than the frontstrap.

I'm a little concerned the electrical tape is going to get gooey over time, so I think I'll make a plastic or wooden piece of the right size and glue it to the front strap.

Sure love that grip! I've had rubber Hogues before, but this is the first wooden one. I took the gun to the range yesterday and it works well with the new grip.
 
I've had more of an issue with wooden production grips (Ahrends, Hogue) fitting well on older Smiths. The ones where they hand fit the grips to the frames, then numbered the grips to the frame. There seems to be more variation in the grip frames in those era guns. I had one set of Ahrends grips that were loose and would move a little on a Model 25-2, but they fit perfectly on a Model 29-4.
 
Krogen, you solved my problem. I went to the local craft store today and bought a thin strip of balsa wood that was 1/16" thick and cut it to about 1.5" long (after some trial and error) and the width of the frame. I used the balsa as a shim to get the proper spacing. I had some problems getting the grip onto the frame, so I beveled the leading edge of the shim and put the frame on without a problem. Grips fit perfectly.
 
Good deal, Mind the Gap. Glad it worked out. I hadn't thought of balsa wood. I might have to try that.
 
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