Home Range Build

[ev780]

Hello all! Hope you get to warm up some iron today. Not me golf today. I have been lurking but this is my first substantive post. Split time between Colorado and Nevada and have been at this since I had brown hair and a waist in the 30's.

I have decided I want a single lane home range and I am gonna do it! Lucky me huh? I did a lot of searching but just want to discuss in a concise thread and look for any landmines.

I need less shop space in retirement so I can cordon off an area about 50" in length. Some of that length will be lost at one end to be gun/gear/reloading area but should still be a good 10yrd range or a little better.

Question---I was thinking 10' wide? I don't want to loose too much floor space in the shop.

Construction will be filled cinder block walls, lightweight concrete ceiling, steel security door and a high-quality bullet trap.

Issues.

Air handling will be done by exhausting air outside and makeup air will be from the heated space within the shop. Any HVAC techs out there that can give me an idea how to figure, fan size, hole size etc? I do not need to worry about filtration or any of that.

The only regulation I need to worry about is sound. And that is a high priority since I would like to keep this wine storage room as clandestine as possible. I do live in a subdivision and my closest neighbor's back yard is maybe 20 yards from the shop wall of what would be the gun room end. Bullet trap end is open to road and farm land. I suspect it will be virtually silent to the outside, but I don't really know. Opinions?

The gun room end will have my benches, racks, shelves, and gun cabinets.

Missing anything?

Although not my main questions, but just for fun feel free to discuss the gun room end of the range too. Pics would be a bonus.


Thanks in advance.

 

[WheelGunMan]

Sounds intriguing. I built an outdoor range which was as easy as dumping 40 yards of sand...but an indoor range does have appeal. I will be following this thread.

 

[taliv]

like a lot of first posts, you need to tell us what you're going to do with the range. what kind of shooting are you going to do? muzzle loaders? bullseye pistol? 3gun practice? 50' is a little short for benchrest or zeroing rifle optics.

 

[reddog81]

Any indoor range I’ve been to can be heard from at least 1 block away. Unless you’re shooting suppressed .22’s, it’ll make quite a bit of noise.

I’m guessing most cities/counties have rules against discharging firearms...

10 feet seems very wide. Most indoor range stalls are under 6’. I’ve heard of people shooting from inside their basement to a bullet trap buried in the yard with a concrete pipe connecting the 2 sides.

 

[BreechFace]

All of what I say below is just from my research, I have not constructed one, but I think there are valid

Regarding ventilation. You want your ventilation exhaust at the far end near the bullet trap so there will be a postive flow away from the shooter.

What are your shop exterior walls made of?

I assume your cinderblock walls you are constructing will totally encapsulate your shooting lane? If so, that will help a lot. And filling in the voids with concrete will help dramatically as well as density will help with sound mitigation outside the room.

 

[ev780]

like a lot of first posts, you need to tell us what you're going to do with the range. what kind of shooting are you going to do? muzzle loaders? bullseye pistol? 3gun practice? 50' is a little short for benchrest or zeroing rifle optics.

Mostly handgun and a little .22. I guess I could do some chrono work with rifles but inside a 10 X 50 concrete box? Ouch! I think I will keep that outside.

 

[ev780]

All of what I say below is just from my research, I have not constructed one, but I think there are valid

Regarding ventilation. You want your ventilation exhaust at the far end near the bullet trap so there will be a postive flow away from the shooter.

What are your shop exterior walls made of?

I assume your cinderblock walls you are constructing will totally encapsulate your shooting lane? If so, that will help a lot. And filling in the voids with concrete will help dramatically as well as density will help with sound mitigation outside the room.

Ventilation---I had it planned just that way.

Exterior wall are just stick construction. No interior finish other than insulation held in with plastic sheeting. And yes blocks on both walls. I was planning on setting blocks right against the studs, fill the void with acoustic insulation and blocks with concrete.

 

[whughett]

My clubs indoor range is 50’ firing line to back stop.
No doubt you’ll be able to keep all of your rounds on target but what about family members or friends. Back stop and ceiling are going to have to stop any errant shots as well as not bounce them back.
Again my clubs ceiling had iron baffle plates angled down to the back stop which is just a large pile of rubber chips.

 

[Riomouse911]

It seems like you’ll have most of the exterior noise issue handled if you go block with filled cells and a good roof. It’s not going to deaden every shot completely, but the escaping sound wouldn’t be much.

Once you solve the ventilation issue I think the only other major one will be interior noise. The roof and wall baffles work to not only contain errant shots but break up and dissipate sound waves as well. The reverberation echo as the waves bounce about are awful. Lots of angles and sound deadening hard foam will be needed so the shooter isn’t punished by sound with every shot.

I’d love to see a cost breakdown and blueprints if you have them, there are probably a lot of people who would love to do the same thing.

Good luck with your project .
Stay safe..

 

[CapnMac]

Really, 8" CMU have about the same acoustic mass whether filled with perlite or solid-fill mortar.
Generally, you should be ok skipping concrete in the block except at lintel courses.
You want solid Type-S mortar fill at any vertical rebar, and in the first, last and each 4th course of block.

It will probably be to your benefit to go 15 courses, a 10' plate height for the walls.
Note that you can get 8" glassblock for reasonably cheap (many tile & masonry outfits have pallets going spare). Glassblock is pretty resistant to impact, and can admit diffuse light.

General rule of thumb for long block walls would be a pilaster every 144" (9 x 16) to create a 16 x 16 column. I'd set those inside if only to mount protected lighting on the target side of the pilaster.

One item that might help is to seek out precast concrete planks as a way to quickly roof in your building. Then, a 40mil TPO membrane to waterproof it (pitch the planks to drain to one side; else use EPS foam to pitch to the rear).

Note that the easiest doors to use are CMU-compatable Hollow Metal frames (they had a 4" deep head so as to finish 88" tall) which anchor right to the CMU block.

For more sound deadening you'd need to look into eggcrate or EPS for glue-on application to the interior walls.

 

[George P]

You said subdivision - check your local laws regarding firing a firearm in a subdivision where you live before you do anything.

 

[ev780]

It seems like you’ll have most of the exterior noise issue handled if you go block with filled cells and a good roof. It’s not going to deaden every shot completely, but the escaping sound wouldn’t be much.

Once you solve the ventilation issue I think the only other major one will be interior noise. The roof and wall baffles work to not only contain errant shots but break up and dissipate sound waves as well. The reverberation echo as the waves bounce about are awful. Lots of angles and sound deadening hard foam will be needed so the shooter isn’t punished by sound with every shot.

I’d love to see a cost breakdown and blueprints if you have them, there are probably a lot of people who would love to do the same thing.

Good luck with your project .
Stay safe..

I doubt I will have any blueprints but I hope to keep the group updated as I go.

A friend's dad's range was a basement concrete bunker that he had poured in place during construction. Not a concrete ceiling though. The worst was the steel bullet trap! Carpet on the floors and some surplus eggshell pads on the walls helped a lot. It was loud but tolerable.

Really, 8" CMU have about the same acoustic mass whether filled with perlite or solid-fill mortar.
Generally, you should be ok skipping concrete in the block except at lintel courses.
You want solid Type-S mortar fill at any vertical rebar, and in the first, last and each 4th course of block.

It will probably be to your benefit to go 15 courses, a 10' plate height for the walls.
Note that you can get 8" glassblock for reasonably cheap (many tile & masonry outfits have pallets going spare). Glassblock is pretty resistant to impact, and can admit diffuse light.

General rule of thumb for long block walls would be a pilaster every 144" (9 x 16) to create a 16 x 16 column. I'd set those inside if only to mount protected lighting on the target side of the pilaster.

One item that might help is to seek out precast concrete planks as a way to quickly roof in your building. Then, a 40mil TPO membrane to waterproof it (pitch the planks to drain to one side; else use EPS foam to pitch to the rear).

Note that the easiest doors to use are CMU-compatable Hollow Metal frames (they had a 4" deep head so as to finish 88" tall) which anchor right to the CMU block.

For more sound deadening you'd need to look into eggcrate or EPS for glue-on application to the interior walls.

Awesome info! Thanks tons. You sound of a mason? What I know of masonry at this point couldn't fill a 9mm case! I will do my research. Glass blocks! Interesting!

I like your roof idea. No need to waterproof it though as it is inside. All I need is to contain any whoopseys and as much sound as possible.

A couple posts mention filling with concrete overkill. That will save a lot of money and weight on my slab.

You said subdivision - check your local laws regarding firing a firearm in a subdivision where you live before you do anything.

As I stated, only issue is sound.

 

[CapnMac]

Awesome info! Thanks tons. You sound of a mason? What I know of masonry at this point couldn't fill a 9mm case! I will do my research. Glass blocks! Interesting!

I like your roof idea. No need to waterproof it though as it is inside.

Just 40 years as architect & contractor. And having done work out in rural areas where simpler = better.

The concrete plank is meant to have gaps, it's only as 'straight' as it forms out to be. The concrete of the planks is not, per se, waterproof. Now, you put foam backer rod in the gaps, and cover that with a good sealant, then use a concrete sealer for the body of the planks and you'll be good. (the middles of those planks have PVC tubes to help reduce the weight--you'll want to stuff the ends with steel or bronze wool, or use hardware cloth to keep birds & critters out.
Throw some 40mil TPO on and you can lap over the holes in one go--slightly faster.

 

[Good Ol' Boy]

Just to throw it out there I was in the contracting business for about a decade before my current job in the lumber milling business.

When I was doing spray foam we actually did the basement of a multimillion dollar home where the client was making it into a shooting range. It was a little bigger than your 10x50 enclosure. However open cell foam on the cinder block walls made a dramatic difference.

FWIW this customer had a finished product with 2x6 walls plus drywall over the cinder block, so roughly 5.5" of spray foam.

You could apply the same amount of foam in an unfinished scenario, the studs and drywall dont add a lot the the sound dampening.

I would say that regardless of whether or not you use foam, some type of sound dampener on the walls, and possibly the ceiling would likely be greatly beneficial to not only the sound heard outside but inside as well.

 

[DMK]

Any indoor range I’ve been to can be heard from at least 1 block away. Unless you’re shooting suppressed .22’s, it’ll make quite a bit of noise.

Assuming you have solid walls, suppressed handguns would be quiet enough. My suppressed 9mms sound about as loud as a 16" semi-auto shooting 22lr supers.

You'd likely need ear protection shooting suppressed indoors, but I doubt your neighbors would even hear it if the range was properly designed.

 

[wiscoaster]

I think you're going to be shocked what you need to do to make it silent on the outside. I shoot frequently at an indoor range and despite what you might call "professional-level" indoor range construction, from the street and separated by the parking lot you can still hear shots being fired. You might have to restrict your shooting to suppressed firearms to meet your sound level goals.

 

[reddog81]

Assuming you have solid walls, suppressed handguns would be quiet enough. My suppressed 9mms sound about as loud as a 16" semi-auto shooting 22lr supers.

You'd likely need ear protection shooting suppressed indoors, but I doubt your neighbors would even hear it if the range was properly designed.

It all boils down to what will be shot and how much one is willing to spend to construct something that's sound proof for that level of noise. I know every indoor range I've visited is rather noisy and it's pretty obvious shots are being fired even from a couple hundred yards away. I have no idea what kind of noise reduction procedures they have to follow...

I agree Subsonic & suppressed 9mm wouldn't be much more difficult than a .22. The problem I'd have is that you won't really know how well the design works out until it's finished and you start testing it out. I'd hate to go through all the expense and hassle and then end up with something unusable for it's intended purpose.

 

[CapnMac]

However open cell foam on the cinder block walls made a dramatic difference.

^^This bears repeating.

Now, I was deliberately not recommending OP invest in one of the Tiger spray foam rigs (unless they wanted to).
I got a distinct impression that this was meant to look about as finished as a shed, so simply gluing up 1" or 2" EPS sheets with PL Premium might be closer to the desired end.

 

[whughett]

Back to my clubs range again. Our walls and ceiling’s are lined with thick foam panels that are your typical sound booth form. The range extends out from the clubs basement. Up stairs in the meeting room one can hear gun fire but it’s muted not much louder than a pneumatic nail gun.
Outside it’s very muted and doesn’t travel.

 

[ev780]

Great info out there! If I am able to pull this off I will post progress pics! Not until mid summer but I will. Keep the info coming!

When I was doing spray foam we actually did the basement of a multimillion dollar home where the client was making it into a shooting range. It was a little bigger than your 10x50 enclosure. However open cell foam on the cinder block walls made a dramatic difference.

FWIW this customer had a finished product with 2x6 walls plus drywall over the cinder block, so roughly 5.5" of spray foam.

You could apply the same amount of foam in an unfinished scenario, the studs and drywall dont add a lot the the sound dampening.

I would say that regardless of whether or not you use foam, some type of sound dampener on the walls, and possibly the ceiling would likely be greatly beneficial to not only the sound heard outside but inside as well.

I was thinking this. I wonder they also have a specific formulation for acoustical uses.

^^This bears repeating.

Now, I was deliberately not recommending OP invest in one of the Tiger spray foam rigs (unless they wanted to).
I got a distinct impression that this was meant to look about as finished as a shed, so simply gluing up 1" or 2" EPS sheets with PL Premium might be closer to the desired end.

Not exactly the impression I was shooting for. My shop is very nice and I will be having some decent finish to the project. I don't want to break the bank but be smart. I will be hiring the right guys to do the things I can't. With that being said. Care to change your answer any?

 

[CapnMac]

Well, I did put a couple minutes into my assumptions. And an ideal size for both CMU & 48" concrete plank is 12' x 48' x 10'

Glazing is 8x4x8 glass block 48" wide & 16" tall.
With a plain interior you get

Those are not very good light models, I only have 4' fluorescent wall mounts in my library of fixtures; 8' double T8 LEDs would be plenty of light.

Care to change your answer any?

Not really. Other than, if you want better finishes, you may need to put a roof on over the concrete planks.
Use 1.5" hat channel on the walls at 24" on center, put the foam between, then use whatever sheet goods you want from channel to channel.

 

[ev780]

Well, I did put a couple minutes into my assumptions. And an ideal size for both CMU & 48" concrete plank is 12' x 48' x 10'
View attachment 986273
Glazing is 8x4x8 glass block 48" wide & 16" tall.
With a plain interior you get
View attachment 986274
Those are not very good light models, I only have 4' fluorescent wall mounts in my library of fixtures; 8' double T8 LEDs would be plenty of light.


Not really. Other than, if you want better finishes, you may need to put a roof on over the concrete planks.
Use 1.5" hat channel on the walls at 24" on center, put the foam between, then use whatever sheet goods you want from channel to channel.

Nice Work! Posterity thanks you. A previous poster suggested sealing the CMU planks (might have been you I didn't look) thinking I was outside which is a good idea regardless to keep the ventilation patent. Can venting be cut into the CMU planks?

Thanks for designing my new "wine cellar".

 

[Jim Watson]

LIGHT THE FIRING LINE.
A fault of even commercial indoor ranges, the targets are illuminated, the stalls are dim. How are you supposed to see your iron sights?

 

[wiscoaster]

... the targets are illuminated, the stalls are dim. How are you supposed to see your iron sights?

Nice point. Don't know how many times I've had to ask for the stall lights to be turned on or turned up.

 

[Jim Watson]

I am going to take a magnetic base flashlight next time. If there is any steel in the dividers, I will place it to illuminate the gun.