Homebrew holsters made by me,show me what you have made! LONG POST and many pic's!

[DasFriek]

I live on a fixed low income budget,and honestly id much rather buy a gun i want than a holster i need.So over the least few months ive been making the best of the cheaper holsters i already owned and could afford and then started making what ever else i need.

Im having a hard time with my IWB creations as i keep freaking gaining weight and then my pants get so tight any IWB holster is uncomfy.Im currently on a "Watch what i eat diet" instead of a "real diet" as in the summer i will NEED to use my IWB one.

Some are just modified cheaper holsters like the 2 Uncle Mike pancakes wich i do use more than any other holster besides my bug holsters.All are hand sew with a polyester thread that will cut skin rather than break,and some copious amounts of glue is used in many places its hard to get a needle threw.
Most took 3-6 hours each depending if i started from scratch or was modifying one.
All use real leather i buy cheaply at craft stores as scrap pieces.

Please if you have any you made or have ideas for or questions pls ask.
I dont sell my holsters,but if someone really needed something i wouldnt mind helping them if its an item they cant normally buy.
I dont sell or charge for my work,but i dont mind helping someone if i can.

This is a spare mag holder for my main gun,it clips to the inside of a jacket pocket.I made this and designed it myself,but it does use a clip from a cell phone holder.I dont leave home without it and it is the easiest non obtrusive way to carry a spare mag.




This one is an Uncle Mikes Pankcake made specifically for a 1911.It kept bunching and folding up while on the belt so i added a spreader in the rear so it stays flat.Its be reinforced with leather on the front.The spreader is a peice of reinforced 5.11 belt that didn't fit me.




This is an IWB combo Kydex and Leather i fully designed also for my 1911.The clip has a seam like flaw but its only cosmetic,i need a heat gun instead of using an oven.The safety is fully retained and can NOT be disengaged while holstered.

 

[DasFriek]

Part 2

This is a fully designed 1911 IWB,but i think ill replace the clips with some better ones ive found online.




Next was originally a IWB Galco Sto-n-go i reinforced the clip and recovered with leather for more padding.



This is another Uncle Mikes pancake reinforced with leather on both sides of the flaps so it wouldn't fold up also.




The next is one of my favorite one,it takes a gun that usually cant be back pocket carried,but with this cover and the way it disguises the profile works perfect.The top is fully covered so the gun is not seen.Guess the gun!




Walther PPS 9mm!

 

[DasFriek]

Part 3

This is a work in progress,Its what i call a house belt.My guns stay on the second level of my house in my bedroom,this way i can carry a gun in my PJ's comfortably all day.Its made from elastic suspenders and a leather holster covering the trigger and strapped down with a leather strap between the firing pin and hammer and velcro released.




This is a basic IWB bug holster.



Next up is a Desantis Nemisis that is under the leather and the added cover flap hides the profile.I like this alot better than the Nemisis it started as.



Next up is my back pocket .25 Wallet,its solid leather so it holds its profile and doesn't smash down.The lite colored strip catches the seam on the pocket so it draws very smoothly.

 

[DasFriek]

Part 4 and the end.

This is a .25 bug OWB behind the belt holster with clip,its amazingly comfy.




This is that basic IWB holster again but with .25 insert so i can carry my .25 and not my P238.







THE END!!!!

 

[Quoheleth]

They may not be the prettiest I've ever seen, but if they work and you're happy with 'em, hey - who am I to criticize?

I say, "Well done, sir!"

Q

 

[DasFriek]

LOL pretty,i wouldn't describe them as that either.
Plus who ever see's our holsters anyhow? but almost everything you see is done with leather scraps i can find cheaply and make what i need and what i do own better.

Nothing here is gonna be better than any well made high end holster from a great maker.
One day when i nail down the exact gun ill carry for many years ill buy one of those as my work isnt the same quality.

It is a fun extra hobby for when i get bored reading all the gun forums and i need a holster i cant afford.

 

[content]

Hello friends and neighbors // I've modified some for a crossdraw but not to that extent.

You have pretty much created your own holsters. They look like the firearms are protected and secure ,well done.

I used an awl with a spool (sort of a hand held sewing machine) to get through multiple layers. Wax thread or trout line for stiching have proven to be longlasting for me. What did you use?

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Here are some of my designs.

Top row, left to right:

• Colt Officers Model Target (also fits Colt M357)
• Ruger Blackhawk, 5 1/2" barrel
• IWB for Colt .25 Automatic. Can also be worn outside the belt.
• Dual purpose for Colt Detective Special. Note slots for OWB and straps for IWB tuckable.

Next row, left to right:

• IWB with clip for Colt Detective Special
• IWB with straps for M1911. Note "button" to hold safety engaged.
• IWB magazine carrier
• IWB tuckable for M1911, same basic design as above.

Bottom: Ruger blackhawk, 7 1/2" barrel.

 

[DasFriek]

I use Nylon Upholstery thread,the lady at Walmart said not to try and break it with my hands as ill have to have that finger sewn back on also.Its very strong stuff to say the least,but yet flexible.
I think ive seen the Awl for leather work at the craft store,but as long as i don't break my needles too much a pair of needle nose plyers has been working ok so far.

Safety and making them secure is my most important priority,looks come in somewhere far down the line. lol

Nice holsters Vern,great looking leather also.Have a good source? With such large guns you really need some large thick leather for those.

I know im gonna need some clips and kydex from knifekits.com as my tuckable 1911 holster im not to happy with the leather loops.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Nice holsters Vern,great looking leather also.Have a good source? With such large guns you really need some large thick leather for those.

Try www.tandyleatherfactory.com They're having a sale right now.

Some of these holsters are made with 9 oz. leather, but for most applications, a little lighter leather is acceptable.

You can drill stitch holes with a drill press -- for speed. I also use a stitching awl made from an old screw driver -- I grind the tip to a diamond-shaped cross section, with the edges of the diamond very sharp. You can use a toothed wheel (Tandy sells them) or the tip of a small screw driver to lay out the stitches.

I made a pony -- this is a small stitching horse. Basically, it's two pieces of lath with a small piece between them at the bottom. A cross piece is placed at the bottom, so the whole assembly forms an upside down T. You place the cross piece under your thighs, with the rest of the assembly sticking up between your legs. A bolt and buttefly nut clamp the tips of the lath strips together, holding the work piece firmly between them.

I know im gonna need some clips and kydex from knifekits.com as my tuckable 1911 holster im not to happy with the leather loops.

There's a secret to making the loops and a secret to using them.

To make them, attach two straps to the toe of the holster with Chicago screws (also called post screws.) The loops are attached to the other end of the straps with modified Chicago screws -- chuck the male screw into a drill and use a file to reduce the diameter of the head until it fits easily inside the male part of your snap. Use this screw to attach the loop to the strap, with the female part of your snap. The male part goes on the other end. This method makes the straps and loops quickly detatchable so you can have multi-use holsters.

To use a tuckable made like this, hold the holster in your hand, with the straps under control. Start with your shirt tucked in. Unbuckle your belt and shove the holster into your pants. Spread the straps and fasten one loop in front of the holster, just touching the forward edge of the holster. Fasten the other loop just touching the back edge of the holster. Insert the gun.

Now pull your shirt out from behind the holster, pull it over the holster and tuck it in. Be sure to reach around and tuck the back of your shirt. Hold holster and gun where you want it, and tighten your belt.

When you have the holster properly positioned, "blouse" your shirt -- pull a bit out and let it hang over your belt.

You'll be surprised at how stable and comfortable these tuckables are.

 

[DasFriek]

All very good advice,trust me ill be referring back to this as i go.
Hopefully one day soon ill fine the "one" gun that i only want to carry.

 

[atomd]

Hey Vern, I hear Tandy is having a 40% off your total bill sale the day after Christmas.

Oh, and DasFriek, you should check them out too. Get that book "The art of hand sewing leather" or just look up some diagrams online. During that sale, you should be able to get real decent leather for around $2.50 or so per square ft or so. Good leather with a good hand stitch will last many many years. An awl and some needles/wax/thread won't cost much at all and you'll be on your way.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Hey Vern, I hear Tandy is having a 40% off your total bill sale the day after Christmas.

Yep, and I plan to make some purchases.

Don't ignore their belt blanks -- 1 1/2" wide of good stiff leather. They make fine gunbelts. You have to cut to length and punch the holes, and add a buckle. They have some good prices on buckles, too.

 

[DasFriek]

Good point,i can always use another heavy duty belt,especially one i can design.

 

[jfdavis58]

What you lack in skill and aesthetics is more than made up for with plain old determination.

Add an awl, stitching groover, saddlers needles, beeswax and cotton thread along with the title "The Art Of Hand Sewing Leather" to your shopping list, a small stitching pony too. Skip the scrap bin and anything chrome-tanned (suede) and that artificially 'grained' stuff in your photos and grab up a clean side or a shoulder in 7-8 ounce thickness and a sharp knife.

Most everything you have already completed would make a decent pattern for re-doing with the proper materials, tools and techniques.

Tandy/Leather Factory sales border on theft when coupled with a 'Club Membership'; that and repeat patronage gets me 40-70% discounts on everything except a Tippman.

 

[HoosierQ]

I am going to be your harshest critic...but I hope it is constructive.

You clearly have a real knack for design. Your execution is lacking in the area of stitching. How do I know? My execution is lacking in the area of stitching.

The overhand stitches will be very vulnerable to wear and if they loosen, they will catch on things like slide releases. Do away with the overhand stitches if you can. They actually look kinda cool but they really won't serve you very well on holsters. Try to do a saddles stitch of some kind...basically sewing through the holes from both sides...you get a nice strong stitch which looks really good.

If you look up stitching techniques on the internet you will find some things that are easy to do and you can employ them quickly.

I think you idea of modifying the existing holsters is really a good one. Again, I too try to make holsters and after a couple of years, I am starting to get some things going that I like. Keep at it my friend...the world needs more homemade holsters in my opinion...save your money for guns because you can do the holsters yourself.

Really neat items.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

There are basically two methods of stitching leather -- one needle and two needle. In the two needle method, there is a needle on either end of the thread. You begin by pushing one needle through the leather (through a hole made by a drill or an awl) and draw the thread through until you have half on either side. For the next stitch, you push one needle through from one side, draw the thread up tight, and push the other needle through from the other side and draw the thread up tight. This method leaves no gaps between stitches.

In the one needle method, you stitch as if you were sewing cloth, leaving gaps between stitches. When you finish the seam, you continue stitching, going back through the same holes in the opposite direction, filling in the gaps. A person inspecting the stitching can't tell which method you used.

You finish both methods by back stitching, then cutting the thread flush. If you use the two-needle method, you can hook one thread with the other, and leave the cross point inside the hole.

 

[Oyeboten]

My first and only one so far, done in 1993, at my Office Desk, while on 'hold' during telephone call things...took about three days of otherwise wasted time interludes...Lol...





It's a good Holster, behaves well...used to wear it when wearing a Jacket or suit.


I'd like to try making a few more...'IWB' especially...

 

[John Parker]

I haven't made a leather holster in almost ten years.

Recently I started goofing around with Kydex.
This one can go both IWB and OWB by changing the loops.

Saddle stitiching is THE way to go, as others have noted. I did all my stitching by hand, even on the saddle I built. It gives ya a very firm handshake! Other than that, invest in a few quality tools and practice, practice, practice. It's easy to make a functional holster. The real trick is in making them both functional and attractive.

 

[Husaberg Man]

Part 2

This is a fully designed 1911 IWB,but i think ill replace the clips with some better ones ive found online.




Next was originally a IWB Galco Sto-n-go i reinforced the clip and recovered with leather for more padding.



This is another Uncle Mikes pancake reinforced with leather on both sides of the flaps so it wouldn't fold up also.




The next is one of my favorite one,it takes a gun that usually cant be back pocket carried,but with this cover and the way it disguises the profile works perfect.The top is fully covered so the gun is not seen.Guess the gun!




Walther PPS 9mm!

Das Friek,
I have a PPS, and that holster is exactly what I want. Function before form, so I don't care much how it looks. Let me know if you're willing to make one for me, and how much.

Thanks!

 

[TPS]

here is a S&W model 29 and a baretta jet fire .22 holster iv made for customers. hope the pics post?

 

[DasFriek]

Wow this thread really took off!
I take criticism very well,especially i did all this just learning as i go and guessing.So ANY advice is always helpfull.Im not so sure on how much money im willing to invest into tools due to my finances,plus this is for fun.I dont want it to be a job or perfect.That takes the fun out of it to me.
But i do want to do things better and more correctly when possible so i will be looking into all the advice given.
Plus some of you guys posting your work is amazing looking and as good as any professionals work ive seen here on the forums and ive seen alot of holsters.

Husaberg Man- Ill be sending you a PM and see about helping you out.Shipping is all i would ask,and mainly doing it since i doubt no one makes anything like this cover you could buy.
It does a well enough job i can wear a tucked in tshirt with the pocket fully exposed and the gun cant be made or even partially seen as the top flap hides it well.I use my PPS as a bug so i need to pocket carry it since my main gun is holstered on my belt.
Its hard to see in the pics but the upside down one shows the bends cradle the gun in one position so it cant shift around.I use a flexible plastic under the leather so the shape is retained.I do need more felt for backing,but i need that for my projects anyhow.
I also want to test lowering the bottom more to almost the end of the muzzle and see if it still fits a pocket well,that will further hide the profile.
That Darker triangle piece of leather may look like decoration,but its there for a purpose,it grabs the seam at the top of the pocket when drawn so the cover stays in the pocket when drawn.
I do question one thing,im not sure if all jeans pockets are all a standard size? I wear a 38/36 pants personally.

Ill also be going to Tandy,ive looked there before but was lost is a sea of sizes and weights.
Can someone tell me what weights are good for what?
Stiff leather for belt making and backing holsters is what weight?
Medium flexible is what weight?
Lite weight for easy flexing is what weight?

 

[Oyeboten]

It does not require much in expense or in Tools.


'Tandy' has discounted scrap Leather in various weights and kinds in Scrap Boxes/Bins...


Heavy Cotton Thread...Wax...a stout Needle...an Awl, or a shaped-sharpened end Nail or Screwdriver...needle noce Pliers or Haemostat/Clamp maybe for pulling a tight Needle...thought...planning...execution.


Rivets are good for re-inforcing areas of strain.

 

[Balog]

What gun is that in part 3 with the grey grip scales with vertical lines in them? Nice work on the holsters, btw.

 

[DasFriek]

Tandy and i will be aquainted real soon,i need more supplies.
Balog- That is the Sig P238 .380 its the basic model with no night sights and sells for $460.But lately i have been seeing them for $429 at my local dealer for one with black grips.
Its a great mouse gun to say the least.