Hornady OAL gauges?

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I'm going to head to cabelas and pick up the proper headspace gauge and see they have the OAL gauge on sale. Right now I'm just coloring the bullet and seating until I get no marks when chambering it and it seems to be working pretty well as far as I can see. Now do you guys think this is good the way I'm doing this or should I spring for the OAL gauge also? I'm going to start experimenting with different bullets here soon if that makes a difference.

How about a bullet comparator? my v max bullets all seem to seat within a thousandth of each other but again using different bullets now would it matter?

Thank you.
 
I have and use case gages for 100% of my handloads. Obviously I think it is a good idea. I never have a FTF.

As far as comparators are concerned I will defer to others.
 
I have a lot of Case Gauges, I swear by them. I'm still looking for a 300Win Mag (Not made that I can find)... I have everything from 30-06 to 45ACP, they are Very Handy.
 
ohihunter2014 said:
I'm going to head to cabelas and pick up the proper headspace gauge and see they have the OAL gauge on sale. Right now I'm just coloring the bullet and seating until I get no marks when chambering it and it seems to be working pretty well as far as I can see. Now do you guys think this is good the way I'm doing this or should I spring for the OAL gauge also? I'm going to start experimenting with different bullets here soon if that makes a difference.

How about a bullet comparator? my v max bullets all seem to seat within a thousandth of each other but again using different bullets now would it matter?

Thank you.
Click to expand...

I've done it the old fashion way for decades. I do have a few gauges, too. Both will work just remember that the Hornady tool is just a reference number.

I will say you can never have to many tools. :thumbup:
 
sorry guys I meant headspace comparator not gauge. :) this is the lock n load headspace comparator that uses the bushings that I just picked up. the item I was wondering about uses the hornady modified cases and the rod to check OAL so your not into the lands.
 
I have and use one. As was already said it is another tool in the tool box. Remember your modified case and your actual cases will differ in size slightly. The Hornady tool will get you really close though, and I like it.

-Jeff
 
For my bolt rifle I still use a fired case with a loose bullet to find the distance to the lands. Crude, but effective. I try to minimize error by replacing the bullet with one from each new box.

The comparator can be awkward to use because the entire cartridge/comparator assembly has to be held straight with one hand while a caliper is worked with the other: it's easy to get the bullet/case cocked to one side which throws off the measurement. Nevertheless mine has proven to be a valuable tool since I've gotten control of it. I've used it more often than I ever thought I would, usually when comparing like bullets from different boxes or when making sure OAL is due to a variance in the plastic tip and not from incorrect bullet seating depth.
 
I have the Hornady headspace comparator. I've used it to set up my sizing dies to be sure I'm only bumping the shoulder back a few thousandths. This has worked fantastically well, IMHO. I size the case enough for easy chambering but (I believe) I'm only working the brass to a minimal amount with each reload.

I recently purchased a couple of the bullet compartor inserts. (I bought just the inserts - not the whole kit. The bullet comparator inserts fit in the same base as what comes with the headspace compartor.) I bought the bullet comparator inserts because I also just recently purchased Hornady's OAL gauge. I bought the OAL gauge sort of reluctantly because I, too, had been using both the Sharpie as well as the bullet-smoking methods and felt reasonably comfortable that was working for me. But I have to say using the OAL gauge gives me MUCH more confidence I'm getting a good solid measurement. That, coupled with using the bullet inserts on the finished rounds, gives me much greater confidence I know exactly how my rounds are fitting relative to the dimensions of my specific gun.

In my reloading log I now track (for appropriate calibers) what I've decided to call "OGOAL" - Ogive Overall Length. I have max (measured) OGOAL for each bullet I load. And then when I load a batch of ammo I document what OGOAL I loaded them to, and consequently I can then track the "jump" to the lands for that particular load.
 
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Sorry for coming in late to the game. The most economical way of buying these is to buy the B234 Bullet Comparator and Basic Insert set, then buy individual Cartridge Headspace Gauge Bushings. The little comparator inserts are inexpensive so buying an entire set with the caliper holder is cheap compared to buying an entire set of headspace gauges with the caliper holder. Having extra comparator inserts for cartridges you don't need is cheaper than having headspace gauges you don't need. I only have a D400 insert for .308 being that I full length resize .223 for my AR and most of the time I simply neck size for .308 and check the headspace by chambering it in my rifle. If the bolt does not close with ease, I bump the shoulder back by "partial full-length resizing" the case with a die that has settings for my rifle marked on it with a Sharpie.
 
ohihunter2014 said:
anyone use the hornady tool to measure how far off the lands the bullet is? cabelas has them on sale and was wondering if its something i should pickup now that im venturing into other bullet types and weights?

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Hornady-reg-Lock-N-Load-OAL-Gauges/731928.uts?searchPath=/browse.cmd?categoryId=734095080&CQ_search=hornady&CQ_ref=~c1-Shooting~c2-Reloading~c3-Calipers%252C%2BMicrometers%2B%2526%2BGauges
Click to expand...

That OAL gauge is the same one I'm using. I'm very glad I got it - as it gives me a ton more confidence regarding where my bullet is relative to the lands.
 
how far off the lans are you guys seating when you get a good average of measurements?
 
@ohihunter2014 shoot me a PM. I have proper instructions to make the Hornady gauges actually work. With the standard Hornady instructions and gear, it's nothing more than a shot in the dark.

They're good tools if you really realize how they work and use them appropriately, however, the instructions included aren't actually proper, and don't necessarily represent anything at all in terms of your actual ammunition.

In reality, a guy needs to have the OAL spindle, the bullet comparators, and the headspace comparators for the system to work. Send me a PM, I'll either email you instructions or you can give me a call to walk through how they need to be used.
 
rsrocket1 said:
Sorry for coming in late to the game. The most economical way of buying these is to buy the B234 Bullet Comparator and Basic Insert set, then buy individual Cartridge Headspace Gauge Bushings. The little comparator inserts are inexpensive so buying an entire set with the caliper holder is cheap compared to buying an entire set of headspace gauges with the caliper holder. Having extra comparator inserts for cartridges you don't need is cheaper than having headspace gauges you don't need. I only have a D400 insert for .308 being that I full length resize .223 for my AR and most of the time I simply neck size for .308 and check the headspace by chambering it in my rifle. If the bolt does not close with ease, I bump the shoulder back by "partial full-length resizing" the case with a die that has settings for my rifle marked on it with a Sharpie.
Click to expand...
so can I buy just the bullet comparator, 224 bushing for headpace and the little adapter and this adapter will fit both the bullet comparator and headspace bushing?
 
ohihunter2014 said:
so can I buy just the bullet comparator, 224 bushing for headpace and the little adapter and this adapter will fit both the bullet comparator and headspace bushing?
Click to expand...

Yes. I had the headspace kit, and I bought only the bullet comparator inserts (individual inserts, not the full blown kit.). The bullet comparators fit the bushing from the headspace gauge so it can attach to the calipers.
 
otisrush said:
Yes. I had the headspace kit, and I bought only the bullet comparator inserts (individual inserts, not the full blown kit.). The bullet comparators fit the bushing from the headspace gauge so it can attach to the calipers.
Click to expand...
I didn't know this. I just looked up the 223 bushing and comparator with the attachment and its the price I paid for just the bushing kit with bushings I will never use. Midway has them all backordered over a month so I will see if I can find them elsewhere. for the bullet comparator, bushing and attachment I'm about $30 in the hole and get everything I need. thanks for the advice. looks like ill be placing another order. :)
 
I have two extra sets of calipers which are dedicated one to headspace gauging and one to bullet comparator gauging. I have two of the "anvils" too, which make life a lot easier for measuring cases, rounds, and bullets.

The full Hornady set is no better than any other comparator system for ogive seating (COAL is NOT a good method), but it sure FEELS a lot better when a guy can measure everything. It's really nice for setting sizing and seating dies as well, as the measurements can be saved for later days.
 
Varminterror said:
I have two extra sets of calipers which are dedicated one to headspace gauging and one to bullet comparator gauging. I have two of the "anvils" too, which make life a lot easier for measuring cases, rounds, and bullets.

The full Hornady set is no better than any other comparator system for ogive seating (COAL is NOT a good method), but it sure FEELS a lot better when a guy can measure everything. It's really nice for setting sizing and seating dies as well, as the measurements can be saved for later days.
Click to expand...

I was really perplexed (I started a string around here on the topic) when I was finding COALs varying +- .004-5" sometimes........without touching the die at all. Then a good friend of mine who knows a ton explained the inconsistencies in manufacturing from the ogive to bullet tip.

When I got my comparator inserts I opened up a batch of .243 ammo I'd made and first checked their COALs - just to confirm what sort of variance I had been experiencing measuring COAL. Then I checked measurement of OGOAL (my term - it's how I label measurement to ogive) with the comparator. Out of 20 measured rounds something like 18 measured to within .001".....and the other 2 were .002" diff. This made me feel a LOT better about the consistency of ammo I was making.
 
Varminterror said:
@ohihunter2014 shoot me a PM. I have proper instructions to make the Hornady gauges actually work. With the standard Hornady instructions and gear, it's nothing more than a shot in the dark.

They're good tools if you really realize how they work and use them appropriately, however, the instructions included aren't actually proper, and don't necessarily represent anything at all in terms of your actual ammunition.

In reality, a guy needs to have the OAL spindle, the bullet comparators, and the headspace comparators for the system to work. Send me a PM, I'll either email you instructions or you can give me a call to walk through how they need to be used.
Click to expand...
Varminterror said:
@ohihunter2014 shoot me a PM. I have proper instructions to make the Hornady gauges actually work. With the standard Hornady instructions and gear, it's nothing more than a shot in the dark.

They're good tools if you really realize how they work and use them appropriately, however, the instructions included aren't actually proper, and don't necessarily represent anything at all in terms of your actual ammunition.

In reality, a guy needs to have the OAL spindle, the bullet comparators, and the headspace comparators for the system to work. Send me a PM, I'll either email you instructions or you can give me a call to walk through how they need to be used.
Click to expand...

Say, if possible, could I also get these instructions? I have sent you my email if this is OK. I make use of the Hornady comparators and would love to make full use of them.

Russellc
 
Varminterror said:
I have two extra sets of calipers which are dedicated one to headspace gauging and one to bullet comparator gauging. I have two of the "anvils" too, which make life a lot easier for measuring cases, rounds, and bullets.

The full Hornady set is no better than any other comparator system for ogive seating (COAL is NOT a good method), but it sure FEELS a lot better when a guy can measure everything. It's really nice for setting sizing and seating dies as well, as the measurements can be saved for later days.
Click to expand...
I also use the RCBS precision case micrometer and have the Wilson case micrometer that sits on top of their case gauge. I am all ears about your Hornady Comparator instructions. I guess I am kind of a tool junkie, but as others have said, it is well worth bumping the shoulder back a minimal amount. Greatly benefits brass life!

Russellc
 
As bullet tips never touch anything until they reach the target, forget where they are relative to anything.

Normal manufacturing tolerances end up putting the tip somewhere in a few to several thousandths spread from the point on the bullet's ogive that first touches the rifling. A spread of a few to several thousandths doesn't matter for over 90% of the time. Then only if the shooting system's no worse than 1/2 MOA; where the top fourth scoring benchrest folks are.

Bullets first touch the rifling at some point up to about .010" smaller than their diameter. Exactly where depends on bore and groove diameters, leade angle, bullet diameter and ogive shape, and the angle the bullet enters the barrel throat.

As rimless bottleneck cases are hard against the chamber shoulder when fired, their head is away from the bolt face at that time. How far is determined by the difference in chamber headspace and case headspace. A .003" spread is normal.

Remember the throat erodes down the barrel .001" for every one to a few dozen rounds. You'll need to back off your seater die that much that often to keep your reloads bullet jump distance the same. How you keep track of each batch the same size is up to you.

Measure all your stuff. Is it really worth the effort to make bullet jump to the rifling vary more than a couple thousandths inch? You may get 20% of your reloads to meet that criteria.

Best wishes. Don't be too obsessed with near zero tolerance issues for your ammo. You weren't that way about the barrel, were you? For example, is your barrel's groove diameter at least .0003" smaller than the bullet diameter? That's a 'must' for best accuracy and more important than tiny spreads in bullet to rifling measurements.
 
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Keep in mind that headspace and bullet comparators are exactly that.....comparators. Don't use them to give you an exact measurement. For example, if you know your 308 chamber headspace is 1.632", don't use the Headspace Comparator to measure a sized case looking for a measurement of 1.627". It won't give you an exact measurement. Instead, insert a go-gauge (exactly 1.630") into the comparator then zero the calipers and measure your shoulder setback as a comparison to the zero. So if you want to set the shoulder back to 1.627", that's -.003 from the zero you set with the go gauge.
I don't know whether this made sense but I think a lot of reloaders forget that the comparators aren't exact measurement tools.
 
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