You really need to be pausing the video and following along in your ballistic app as he goes to be able to really track this, unless you're really familiar with these reticles and how they're used.
First, recognize that the TReMoR's (we don't say TReMoR Reticles - cuz the R is for Reticle, kinda like "ATM Machine") have "extra" info incorporated all over the reticle, a lot of which just isn't valuable to most shooters. Anything above the reticle centerline is used for "milling," aka ranging targets based on their apparent size (don't need this if you own a LRF), plus hold correction for moving targets (don't need this if you don't shoot movers). Then below the centerline major stadia, you have both regular mil graduations shows as stadia lines above each horizontal stadia, and the dots below the horizontals are windage correction dots (don't need these dots if you have time to punch your calculator in the field). This gives the shooter an ability, given a ton of time to prep for the shot, and a TON of experience and practice, to make hold over shots in the wind, on movers, all with data from their reticle... You can add the speed correction offset, measured in mils, to the desired windage dot, and have a positive aiming point on target, never hanging your target in space. I've used them, and still do, but I'll readily admit, I really need to ONLY be using that reticle all year to be readily proficient. Kinda like saying - I know a language, but I don't practice it enough to speak it fluently...
Secondly - recognize the TReMoR's are made to be 100% hold over, NEVER dialed. If you dial, you change the relationship between the dots and the windspeed.
His game is to leave the calculator at home, and live from your range card and your reticle, instead of running the calculator for corrections.
The wind dot calibration process he describes - poorly, as Todd often does in how he speaks - is just a way to correlate what 0.475mil means (half of 0.95) in terms of wind speed for your load:
So from then on, you know your load at your altitude would have "one dot" worth of offset for that windspeed. If you shoot in a wind half as fast, you hold half a dot gap, if you shoot in 3x the wind, you hold 3 dots... And the dots are staggered such if you shoot twice as far, you still hold the same number as dots.
- Run your load on the calculator to get your trajectory at your density altitude
- Determine the exact range at which your load crosses 4mil drop (may have to punch and repunch different ranges to get this nailed down)
- Determine the exact wind velocity which produces 0.95mil of wind drift (likely have to punch and repunch different wind speeds to get this nailed down)
- Divide that wind speed by 2 - forever onward with that load, at that Density Altitude, this windspeed is the value of wind for each dot, regardless of the horizontal it's on
For example: My 6mm creed, running the 105 Hybrid, at my density altitude (I'm running 1388ft at 30.065inHg today) at 2916fps. I cross 4mil at 662yrds, so now I go back and start punching wind until I get 0.95mil wind drift at 662yrds (23.8"), so I come up with 8mph. Since 0.95 is the SECOND dot, I divide 8 by 2, so that tells me each dot is worth 4mph. If I shoot in a 12mph wind, I hold 3 dots, if I shoot in a 2mph, I hold half a dot... At any range...
I like Todd's stuff well enough, but he does use a LOT of the language too much, because most shooters aren't readily fluent, and he goes over stuff too quickly and at too high level - because for him and a select group of other shooters, all of this is just review. I personally think it's very hard for a newbie to learn from his content, because he tends to NOT talk beneath experts. I'm sure in a beginner level class, or with a beginner, he's a fantastic teacher, but I see a lot of his content like this which just doesn't translate to the layman.
In the other video, he talks about wind bracketing - which is a common technique. It's just a relationship of your target size to your windspeed correction. Say I'm shooting 662yrds on a 2moa target - 0.56mil. When I look at the target in the scope, I can see the target is wider than my dot gap. Say I can't decide if I have an 8mph or 10mph wind. Don't panic - 2mph is only half a gap, and my target is ~1.2 gaps wide... Hold the second dot on target, or slightly into the wind side, and bang. Impact.
Or say I read my wind speed as 12mph, but I can't tell if it's full value or 3/4 value... Full is 12mph wind, 3/4 is 9mph, the difference is 3/4 of a gap, where my target is ~1.2 gaps wide, so I can just hold either call on target and still make the hit (or an average call between 9 and 12)... Again, hold anywhere between 2nd and 3rd dot, bang, impact.
The advantage of the TReMoR: In a mil based Christmas Tree reticle, you ONLY have mil stadia on the horizontals. So as you go farther out, each windage line corresponds to a different windspeed. The windage dots in the TReMoR get wider as you go lower, so they always correspond to the same windspeed correction. So I don't need to calculate my windage corrections, I ONLY need to read the wind to within the size of my target, and send it.
Outstanding clarity in distilling this down! I have watched both clips five times...but your explanation was a marvelous epiphany...! One thing I need to ask: so if one uses the wind dots, I know you never have to dial wind or use mils... but do you still dial for vertical drop, or is that now only determined by holding the necessary mils for distance, then using the wind dots? Thanks!You really need to be pausing the video and following along in your ballistic app as he goes to be able to really track this, unless you're really familiar with these reticles and how they're used.
First, recognize that the TReMoR's (we don't say TReMoR Reticles - cuz the R is for Reticle, kinda like "ATM Machine") have "extra" info incorporated all over the reticle, a lot of which just isn't valuable to most shooters. Anything above the reticle centerline is used for "milling," aka ranging targets based on their apparent size (don't need this if you own a LRF), plus hold correction for moving targets (don't need this if you don't shoot movers). Then below the centerline major stadia, you have both regular mil graduations shows as stadia lines above each horizontal stadia, and the dots below the horizontals are windage correction dots (don't need these dots if you have time to punch your calculator in the field). This gives the shooter an ability, given a ton of time to prep for the shot, and a TON of experience and practice, to make hold over shots in the wind, on movers, all with data from their reticle... You can add the speed correction offset, measured in mils, to the desired windage dot, and have a positive aiming point on target, never hanging your target in space. I've used them, and still do, but I'll readily admit, I really need to ONLY be using that reticle all year to be readily proficient. Kinda like saying - I know a language, but I don't practice it enough to speak it fluently...
Secondly - recognize the TReMoR's are made to be 100% hold over, NEVER dialed. If you dial, you change the relationship between the dots and the windspeed.
His game is to leave the calculator at home, and live from your range card and your reticle, instead of running the calculator for corrections.
The wind dot calibration process he describes - poorly, as Todd often does in how he speaks - is just a way to correlate what 0.475mil means (half of 0.95) in terms of wind speed for your load:
So from then on, you know your load at your altitude would have "one dot" worth of offset for that windspeed. If you shoot in a wind half as fast, you hold half a dot gap, if you shoot in 3x the wind, you hold 3 dots... And the dots are staggered such if you shoot twice as far, you still hold the same number as dots.
- Run your load on the calculator to get your trajectory at your density altitude
- Determine the exact range at which your load crosses 4mil drop (may have to punch and repunch different ranges to get this nailed down)
- Determine the exact wind velocity which produces 0.95mil of wind drift (likely have to punch and repunch different wind speeds to get this nailed down)
- Divide that wind speed by 2 - forever onward with that load, at that Density Altitude, this windspeed is the value of wind for each dot, regardless of the horizontal it's on
For example: My 6mm creed, running the 105 Hybrid, at my density altitude (I'm running 1388ft at 30.065inHg today) at 2916fps. I cross 4mil at 662yrds, so now I go back and start punching wind until I get 0.95mil wind drift at 662yrds (23.8"), so I come up with 8mph. Since 0.95 is the SECOND dot, I divide 8 by 2, so that tells me each dot is worth 4mph. If I shoot in a 12mph wind, I hold 3 dots, if I shoot in a 2mph, I hold half a dot... At any range...
I like Todd's stuff well enough, but he does use a LOT of the language too much, because most shooters aren't readily fluent, and he goes over stuff too quickly and at too high level - because for him and a select group of other shooters, all of this is just review. I personally think it's very hard for a newbie to learn from his content, because he tends to NOT talk beneath experts. I'm sure in a beginner level class, or with a beginner, he's a fantastic teacher, but I see a lot of his content like this which just doesn't translate to the layman.
In the other video, he talks about wind bracketing - which is a common technique. It's just a relationship of your target size to your windspeed correction. Say I'm shooting 662yrds on a 2moa target - 0.56mil. When I look at the target in the scope, I can see the target is wider than my dot gap. Say I can't decide if I have an 8mph or 10mph wind. Don't panic - 2mph is only half a gap, and my target is ~1.2 gaps wide... Hold the second dot on target, or slightly into the wind side, and bang. Impact.
Or say I read my wind speed as 12mph, but I can't tell if it's full value or 3/4 value... Full is 12mph wind, 3/4 is 9mph, the difference is 3/4 of a gap, where my target is ~1.2 gaps wide, so I can just hold either call on target and still make the hit (or an average call between 9 and 12)... Again, hold anywhere between 2nd and 3rd dot, bang, impact.
The advantage of the TReMoR: In a mil based Christmas Tree reticle, you ONLY have mil stadia on the horizontals. So as you go farther out, each windage line corresponds to a different windspeed. The windage dots in the TReMoR get wider as you go lower, so they always correspond to the same windspeed correction. So I don't need to calculate my windage corrections, I ONLY need to read the wind to within the size of my target, and send it.
if one uses the wind dots, I know you never have to dial wind or use mils... but do you still dial for vertical drop, or is that now only determined by holding the necessary mils for distance, then using the wind dots?
A 4mph wind from 3 o’clock pushes my bullet .1 mils per hundred yards to 600 yds, then I have to do a little fancy math so 700 is an .8 mil hold, 800 is .9 mil, 900 is 1.1and 1000 is 1.2 miles, or close to that.......If I can read the wind for the entire range (I can’t usually).
really long range engagements (in that 9-12 mil + range) it is better to dial for elevation and perhaps some wind.
I quickly gave up on the video. I have trouble remembering my door lock code, much less all that stuff. I'm not sure I can afford a scope with that busy a reticle anyway.