How do i get the door off of a Liberty Gun Safe?

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slumlord44

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Recently got a great deal on an older used Liberty Lincoln Model safe. Trying to figure out how to get the door off to make it easier to move. My understanding is that with the door wide open it should just lift of the hinges. Problem is that the top hinge hits the top of the door frame before the hinge pin clears the frame hinge. What am I missing?
 
IIRC, that only applies to safes/RSCs that have external hinges, not internal.

I think Liberty uses internal hinges (the ones I've seen). Consequently, that's one negative of Liberty RSCs -- you have to move the whole HEAVY thing.

When I was trying to move my liberty Presidential 25, it would have been nice to get the door off. Even if they DO come off, I could find no way to do it easily/safely as I can with my 2 other safes that have external hinges. Heck, I couldn't even clearly SEE the internal hinges on my Liberty, let alone figure out how remove the door and then later, put it back on -- safely/easily.

No more internal-hinged safes/RSCs for me anymore (and for a couple of reasons).

Good luck...
 
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Don't take the door off. You'll tear up the interior doing it, and it will be very difficult, if not impossible, to get back on, especially without tearing it up more.

I think in the 25 years I have been moving safes, I have removed the door from one gun safe to make weight on a set of stairs. It weighed over 1,500 pounds (with the the door) and had external hinges.

Removing doors is very dangerous. Lots of things can go wrong, and they are unbalanced and difficult to keep ahold of.
 
I would strongly recommend calling a safe specialist and having them do the moving. They have the skills, tools, and insurance. Even a modest amount of damage to a home can result in a repair bill many times the cost of paying a pro to move it for you and outright avoiding the stress. Additionally, if you remove the door you will almost certainly void the lifetime warranty. (I'm not trying to sound like a jerk here and apologize if it comes off that way.)
 
I remove the doors from my 2 external-hinge "safes" every time I move them -- they come OFF very easily but do go ON a bit harder due to lining up a HEAVY door precisely on the same plane/axis as the pins, but I do it. It's not difficult nor is there any danger unless you're careless.

Maybe it just depends HOW you do it as there are several ways to take the door off, and I HAVE to do it by myself as I have no one to help. I even move them up stairs by myself (and no, I don't use a rented battery-powered "stair-climber," nor do I own one). Of course, the safes are lightweights at 540lbs and 165lbs respectively, and since the door is about 30% of the weight, moving the safe's door and body separately make it much easier for me, although with my tools (and a basic grasp of physics) I could move them even with the doors installed. But why make it harder than necessary? So the doors come off.

Anyone handy with tools and leverage issues should be able to figure out safe ways to move small to medium-weight safes. If you can't, then of course, don't do it. For safety's sake.

Whatever, the point remains: Internal-hinged safes seem to have non-removable doors. Leave them on and move the whole safe. NEXT time, buy a safe with external hinges.

My 920-lb Liberty Presidential is now someone else's "moving problem." I don't miss it at all...especially when I HAD to move THAT one by myself (the "hired help" -- huge muscle guys from Gold's Gym -- never showed up), and I DID move it myself (with the non-removable door ON) from inside my apartment out to the truck waiting with the lift-gate to ship it to my next residence in anther state. Had no choice so *I* did it.

I won't describe here how I do it for 2 reasons: (1) I don't want anyone trying something that works for me but ends up not working for them and they get hurt (liability), and (2) how I do it is a "trade secret." I HAVE to do it because I found years back I can't depend on anyone but myself, so I've no choice but to figure out HOW to move heavy items alone as I move (usually to another state) every 4 years. But as mentioned, it's just common-sense application of physics, not even approaching Rocket Science. ;-)

It's just tools and leverage...working smarter, not harder.

I first had to learn how to move heavy things when I was in the RVN (10 Armored Cav, 4th ID, 1969-70) and had to replace broken M48 A3 battle tank track that had come off (was blown off by a mine or slipped off/derailed in rugged terrain) out in the field using only a long railroad-type crowbar and the tank's engine to turn the drive wheel. And do it before it got dark so we could get OUT of there or else we were in trouble. I probably only weighed 160 lbs then, and wasn't very strong -- never have been, so I HAD to use brain, not brawn. Those sections of track are VERY heavy by themselves, but put sections of track together and it's even heavier -- but it's just simple physics to "manhandle" that weight by working smarter, not harder.

It's amazing how much weight ONE person can move using principles of leverage. Which also is one reason a safe needs to be bolted down even if you think it's "too heavy" to move. Trust me: You're probably wrong and it isn't "too heavy" to move...

BTW...the so-called "professional safe movers" I've experienced were CLOWNS...did NOT have any "expertise" (what a joke) or proper safe-moving equipment. And, they even hired ex-cons/gangsters. Their "work crews" were so undermanned the customers had to HELP move the safe or it didn't get moved. They probably didn't even have liability insurance in case a customer got hurt (let alone insurance for their gang-bangers). And there was no "labor discount" given when customers DID help move their own safes they paid SOMEONE ELSE to do. Think "2 guys and a truck" and you get the idea. Well, 2 guys if you were lucky...they really needed 4.

Don't ask me how I know all that. :-(

In MOST cities/towns, there AREN'T ANY real "professional safe-movers" even if they SAY they are...you're better off doing it yourself IF you can, and unlike my situation, MOST people have plenty of friends to help. If not and you have to hire a "professional" crew, expect to pay BIG BUCKS and repeat that EVERY time you move.

But some advice: Lay off the beer until AFTER the safe is moved! ;-)

And be careful, for everyone's safety.

Happy Thanksgiving to all,

-- c
 
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"It's amazing how much weight ONE person can move using principles of leverage. Which also is one reason a safe needs to be bolted down even if you think it's "too heavy" to move. Trust me: You're probably wrong and it isn't "too heavy" to move..."

My safe isn't bolted to anything. WT. = empty #4000, old money vault. Need professional mover to move it. 2 safe movers made it look easy.
 
BTW...the so-called "professional safe movers" I've experienced were CLOWNS...did NOT have any "expertise" (what a joke) or proper safe-moving equipment.

That's true. People claim things they are not all of the time. We have a local guy who pretends he does the same things we do, but it's just his fantasy. The problem is that regular consumers have no idea. He will beat our prices to get the business, but he's not providing what we provide, and what most of his customers believe they are getting.


In MOST cities/towns, there AREN'T ANY real "professional safe-movers" even if they SAY they are

That's also true. Most of us who specialize in this business are located nearer to metro areas where our type of work is most common. However, professionals do travel. Think of all of the places that have big heavy safes: Banks, Jewelry Stores, Department Stores, etc. If you have difficulties finding somebody in the phone book or Google (many real safes companies do not advertise), ask the manager at one of those places who moved theirs.

And don't forget that professionals charge professional rates, especially when travel is involved. You can't complain about not being able to find a real professional to do it for $50, because no real professional will do it for that. We just had a company out of Denver place a 4,500 pound safe for us in a residence about an hour out. Looks like you're the same distance. So there are professionals capable of doing the work in your area.
 
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First guy I called wanted $450. Second guy who moves safes for a local sporting goods store wants $300. Considering calling Two Men and a Truck to see what they want. Safe is $200. That would get it in my garage for $500 which still isn't too bad for a heavy 25 gun safe. Was hoping to get it there for $300-$400 total but it may not be worth saving a hundred bucks to take a chance on having a bad problem. I can actually scoot the thing across a concrete floor by myself but laying it down to move it in one piece scares me.
 
How far do you need to move the safe? Steps? Tile? Narrow doors?
One of my sons and myself recently switched out an old Treadlock for 1000# plus Liberty. We had to load them on a trailer and move each through two doors and probably 50-60' on concrete without a dolly.
I've moved the 26 gun Treadlock all over the country over the last 30 years and mostly by myself but it probably only weighs 5-6 hundred since it doesn't have fire proofing but I believe the steel is heavier.
 
First guy I called wanted $450. Second guy who moves safes for a local sporting goods store wants $300.

You should ask for an explanation of what is included in the price, and perhaps what constitutes the difference. I am usually more expensive than the other "movers" because I have insurance, experience, and equipment that they don't. But sometimes I'm less than other "professionals" because I can move 3 or 4 safes while they're still screwing around with 1.


Considering calling Two Men and a Truck to see what they want.

Who knows what you will get in your area. Around here they tend to tear safes up, or waste a lot of time figuring out that they really can't do what they said they could on the phone. I clean up after them on a regular basis. They tend to do a great job moving things that can be hand carried, but not so great at things that really do require equipment outside of an appliance dolly.
 
Doesn't having external hinges so the door is easier to remove kind of defeat the purpose and value of internal hinges?:what:
 
Fella's;

In my opinion, based on a certain amount of experience mind you, internal hinges are one of the best reasons I could come up with to not buy any given "safe" (RSC). Move it with the door in place. If you remove the door & torque the sheet metal box, you may have a true adventure getting the thing back on. I absolutely guarantee it'll be an adventure you don't want to have.

Almost any container worth owning will have either passive or active bolts, bars, pins, etc., on the hinge side that prevent door removal if the hinges are compromised. Anything that doesn't isn't worth having for secure storage. Most RSC's are relatively easy to move if you put some thought into what needs to be done, before attempting to do it. Two people who know what they are doing can easily move most RSC's as long as it isn't a ridiculous situation. If stairs are involved, it's still easy if you have the proper equipment. If you don't have the equipment, then hire a pro. In comparison the professional safe mover will be dirt cheap compared to the medical bills if something goes way wrong trying it yourself.

And yeah, I really do know what I'm talking about.

900F
 
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