How do I match factory 357 power/kick?

Centella

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Jan 21, 2023
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Hello friends,
I have been handloading 357 magnum for a few months now with great results. Thanks to the advice from knowledgeable people on this forum I've kept things fun and safe. I am happy with my loads, in terms of consistency and accuracy. However, I would love to be able to produce a load that matches some of the factory ammo out there in terms of felt recoil. Yes, feeling a harder kick as I'm shooting is part of the fun for me, so occasionally I will buy factory stuff just for that.
The round I would like to replicate is the Federal American Eagle 158gr JSF 357 magnum. At 25 yards, this round produces 494 ft-lbs of energy, and travels at 1187 ftps (acording to Federal). But velocity and energy aside, I just wanna be able to replicate that solid kick. Surely most of you have experienced this round so you know what I'm talking about.
Please note that I mostly use plated or jacketed bullets (Berry's or Precision Delta), and I shoot out of a S&W 686 plus 6 inch.

Thanks!
 
You pretty much just need to match bullet weight and velocity. Ideally this is done with a chronograph, but just finding a load "in the book" should be close enough.

A 158 at 1200 FPS is no trick at all, for what it's worth. I use twelve or thirteen grains of 2400 to manage the job, and there are many other powders that will do the same thing in perfect safety.
 
I have ran three different powders through my chronograph with a 158 grain RNFP bullet through a 6.5” barrel with these results. Understand, this is with load data for a lead, round nose flat point not a jacketed bullet and I post my results just to give you an idea of full power, factoryish loads..:D

Accurate AA#9- 13 grains/1214 fps
Ramshot Enforcer- 13 grains/1097 fps
Hodgon H110- 14.9 grains/1144 fps

If you want the full light show, pick up H110/296. Ramshot Enforcer in particular has a very effective flash suppressant added to it.
 
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If you want to feel more recoil get yourself a Smith and Wesson Airlite 360PD or any other brand of lightweight snubs in .357 magnum. After a 100 round session of full power .357 magnum loads with 158 grain bullets you should have your desired recoil sensations realized. If not fire 100 more one handed. Also there are boutique brands like Buffalo Bore and Underwood etc. that load true max loads.
 
Something that hasn't been said yet...

If you are going to make max loads, work them up to be sure they are safe to use in your gun/guns. Look for pressure signs. Sticky extraction is one sign, and if you have it you are most likely over max pressure, possibly way over max pressure.

Have fun with it, but be safe. More recoil can always be had with a larger caliber gun.

chris
 
Factory ammo seems to use faster powder than H110.
You think you have a hot factory load that makes 1,400fps in your revolver and think it will be spectacular in a rifle. Then you add a whole nother foot of barrel and only get +100fps or so....
 
Factory ammo seems to use faster powder than H110.
You think you have a hot factory load that makes 1,400fps in your revolver and think it will be spectacular in a rifle. Then you add a whole nother foot of barrel and only get +100fps or so....
That's the 4227 is garbage in a 4" but the bees knees in a 16.5 discussion.
 
Hodgdon 10" barrel 15gr-1418fps 16.7gr- 1591.
Lyman 4" barrel 16.3gr-1178fps 17gr-1309fps.

Yesterday I was shooting 158 XTPs at 15gr. Not bad recoil and a nice fireball. If you want to go hot, I'd try 16.5gr. That should offer the pop you're looking for.
 
Ouch!

Says the man who has a 21 ounce .44 Spl. :D
I put six rounds of Winchester White Box 158’s through my 2” Colt Lawman Mk.III and put it in the vault until the prices for unusual Colts went through the stratosphere. IIRC around 2009.
I hope the OP gets his kick without the ensuing pain and joint injury I’ve experienced.
 
If you want a round that has power and kick, try AA9. It'll leave your hand sore. If you want to replicate the Federal round, I'd shoot 2-3 rounds through a chronograph with your handgun and measure the MV, Disassemble and reassemble the load with a lighter charge and shoot a few of those and graph it. Then find a powder that is close to that. Then shoot a series of test loads of the most available powders and find what is close. Use the same bullet, brass, and primers.
 
I like to chronograph factory ammunition in most of my guns. At the least, I shoot ammunition with the same weight and construction bullet.

It tells me if the gun shoots fast or slow with ammunition that is supposed to be at safe pressure levels.

I then work up loads to match the factory velocity watching for pressure signs along the way. I don’t care what the felt recoil comparison is between factory or reloads.

I like W296/H110 for my full power 357 Mag loads. Someday, I’ll try AA#9. 2400 is a distant alternate especially after it changed from Hercules to Alliant. I hate IMR4227.

I used to shoot IHMSA handgun silhouette with. 357 Mag revolver (revolver class) and a 357 Mag 10” Contender (production class). Money was tight at the time and since I already loaded 357 Mag ammunition it was an economical way to get into the game. I’ve done a fair amount developing 357 Mag reloads.
 
If you want a round that has power and kick, try AA9. It'll leave your hand sore.

It doesn't leave my hand sore.


Centella, If you're trying to 'match' the factory round, and you want to find a load that uses about the same powder charge weight, you can weigh the powder from a factory load, and then select a powder based on published data that uses around the same weight and which produces the speed you want. Without a chronograph, you'll be guessing speed. Powders like 296/H110, Accurate #9 and Vit-N110 will get you there with a 158 grain bullet. Work your loads up to be safe.
 
FWIW, I'd take a full charge of W296, for example, over a full charge of Unique under the same bullet, trying to achieve the same velocity. Different powders do, indeed, work differently. If you are a recoil junkie, midrange powders will pop your hand more than the shove of a slower powder. Completely off the reservation... if you like lots of flash and muzzle blast... try Power Pistol... ;)
 
It doesn't leave my hand sore.


Centella, If you're trying to 'match' the factory round, and you want to find a load that uses about the same powder charge weight, you can weigh the powder from a factory load, and then select a powder based on published data that uses around the same weight and which produces the speed you want. Without a chronograph, you'll be guessing speed. Powders like 296/H110, Accurate #9 and Vit-N110 will get you there with a 158 grain bullet. Work your loads up to be safe.

Well, you'll have to agree that AA9 is stout compared to other powders. I don't like shooting hot .357mag and from memory prefer Blue Dot or a light wadcutter load. But, as for AA9, if I were to choose a powder for a hunting load, AA9 provides a decent recoil with accuracy.
 
It doesn't leave my hand sore.


Centella, If you're trying to 'match' the factory round, and you want to find a load that uses about the same powder charge weight, you can weigh the powder from a factory load, and then select a powder based on published data that uses around the same weight and which produces the speed you want. Without a chronograph, you'll be guessing speed. Powders like 296/H110, Accurate #9 and Vit-N110 will get you there with a 158 grain bullet. Work your loads up to be safe.
Thanks, great idea!
 
Hello friends,
I have been handloading 357 magnum for a few months now with great results. Thanks to the advice from knowledgeable people on this forum I've kept things fun and safe. I am happy with my loads, in terms of consistency and accuracy. However, I would love to be able to produce a load that matches some of the factory ammo out there in terms of felt recoil. Yes, feeling a harder kick as I'm shooting is part of the fun for me, so occasionally I will buy factory stuff just for that.
The round I would like to replicate is the Federal American Eagle 158gr JSF 357 magnum. At 25 yards, this round produces 494 ft-lbs of energy, and travels at 1187 ftps (acording to Federal). But velocity and energy aside, I just wanna be able to replicate that solid kick. Surely most of you have experienced this round so you know what I'm talking about.
Please note that I mostly use plated or jacketed bullets (Berry's or Precision Delta), and I shoot out of a S&W 686 plus 6 inch.

Thanks!
Look at load data, compare powder weights per speed, narrow down to highest velocities, then pick the one with the MOST powder per velocity window: 158 1200 fps, 13 gr kicks more than 10 gr (these numbers are just an example and not based off of any specific recipe)
 
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