How do you clean a revolver ?

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Mantis

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I just bought my first revolver, a S & W 629 Classic 44 mag. I’m very familiar with cleaning and stripping down & cleaning various types of rifles, shotguns, and semi-auto pistols, but I’ve never cleaned a revolver before. What are some of the dos and don’ts with wheel gun cleaning ? Do you use some kind of muzzle guide when cleaning the barrel to avoid dinging up the crown ? Thanks.
 
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The lockwork doesn't need all that much cleaning -- taking the side plate off, squirting with brake cleaner, drying and lightly lubing is about all I ever do.

Clean the barrel and chambers as you would the barrel of an automatic pistol. Pay special attention to the forcing cone and the area around (and especially above it, where carbon can build up.)

Wipe down to prevent surface rust before you put it away.

That's about it.
 
Do you use some kind of muzzle guide when cleaning the barrel to avoid dinging up the crown ?

That's worth doing, or else be very careful not to let the cleaning rod touch the bore.

When cleaning a revolver, I always remove the cylinder and crane, and let them soak in a jar of Hoppe's No. 9 while I'm cleaning the rest of the gun. If the cylinder chambers and face are unusually dirty, I let the parts soak overnight.

A Lewis lead remover is the best way I've ever found to clean the bore and throat, although sad to say, it's not made in .22 caliber.

Most people don't do it this way, but I'm something of a cleanliness fanatic. Every third or fourth trip to the range, I strip a revolver to the frame, clean everything within an inch of its life, oil liberally, and reassemble the gun. That's a bad idea if you're going to store a gun longer than a few months, since oil tends to coagulate.

A week after I clean and oil a gun, I push some dry patches through the barrel and cylinder chambers. A little extra-last dirt comes out about as often as not. I've never understood why, precisely, but revisiting a cleaned gun takes less than five minutes, and improves one's peace of mind.
 
Can I add one small addition .......... this is to do with how you treat the cylinder/crane assembly. ''Baby it'' .... in other words, open the cylinder under control of free hand and, when closing do not slam.

The cylinder has quite significant mass - and if flicked open ''a la Hollywood'' - or slammed shut - the gun will suffer - most so from the former operation.
 
There's no easy option for cleaning typical revolver barrels other than through the muzzle, since you can't readily remove the barrel as in an autopistol, and there's no way to have a straight-shot push through the barrel from the cylinder end.
Personally, I don't brush in and out. Rather, I put the empty rod down the barrel, screw on the bronze brush, then pull it through. (With the solvent or cleaner of your choice, of course. I use M-Pro 7 and FP-10.)
A brass cone-shaped muzzle guide will help protect the crown.
The Allison Speed Brush makes cylinder cleaning a bit faster (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/st...p=150&title=SPEED+BRUSH+&+SPEED+MOP&s=778#778).
The Lewis Lead Remover is your best bet for getting lead residues off the forcing cone.
Contrary to what many folks think, the cylinder face burns come off quickest and easiest with a little scrubbing using a bit of M-Pro 7 on a 3M green polymer scrub pad.

Revolvers are a PITA to clean compared to most semiautomatic pistols.
 
I live in some pretty rough conditions (to put it mildly), and I'm finding CLP is the best cleaner and lube. I've been using it and only it on my revolvers for the last six months and so far no rust. Or skin sores for that matter. Great stuff. I just splash some down the bore, scrub it with a brush a few times, then run a snake through. Then rub down the outside and squirt some into the works. Dry fire a while to work the extra loose. I worked for years with all the other cleaners and rust blocks out there with much less promising results.
 
the Bore Snake is God's gift to firearm owners

once you use one, the cleaning rod nonsense will drive you crazy

causal
 
I've know guys (LEO's, actually) who removed the grips and put their SS wheelguns in the dishwasher! Honest!

Stay safe.
Bob

PS: Of course, I know cops who love Glocks "because you never have to clean 'em!"
 
I just did a Blued K frame that gets feed lead.

Remove Stocks, set aside.

Remove crane assembly , G96 and Chore Boy on a bristle brush the charge holes, golf tee the extractor from cyl - toss into Mineral Spirits.

G96 down the bbl, again use Chore Boy / Bristle brush to remove lead, toss into Mineral Spirits.

After a short soak , toothbrush, and can of Dust Off ( his air compressor un-cooperative).

G96 the whole deal , Dust off Real Good.

Assemble Crane with a toothpick of RIG on Crane area up front, Rig the frame where Stocks fit.

Intead of RIG the externals this time - Carnuba Car wax externals.

[has 3 exact guns, rotates his CCWs, Caruba wax for Carry, RIG for nightstand and one kept 'elsewhere'.]

Treat Bore with RIG. , Tight patch leaves just a smidge.

Mobil One 0-30w , 1 drop in front of hammer , 1 drop in front of cyl onto ejector rod area, dry fire to spread around.

Load up with 158 gr LSWC- HP and Done.

Note. For years these guns have used ATF for lube, since the owner actually used the ATF for a vehicle...He is going to try the Mobil 1 . It worked so well in some Semi's of his...
 
Question

I read the link that plinkerton posted, and I thought it was a no-no to clean the barrel by inserting the brush in from the muzzle end and working against the rifling?

So its not harmful to insert from the muzzle end? Because that would certainly make life much easier to clean it that way!
 
You are not working ''against'' the rifling .... it is shall we say - bi-directional!! Only deal to watch is making sure the cleaning rod is not harming the muzzle/crown ... thus it is useful to have some sorta guide on the rod, to keep it centered.
 
Only deal to watch is making sure the cleaning rod is not harming the muzzle/crow

YEP!

This applies to ANY thing used to clean a bore. Otis Pull systems, Patch Worms, anything.

I happen to use the Otis System a lot , I also use a length of Rawhide Boot lace often. A Drinking straw ( I used one from Sonic) makes a great muzzle guard.

Go slow and pay attention , akin to measure twice - cut once.
 
Oh one more thing. I use a Lewis Lead Remover to clean the forcing cone, and also a Lead Removing Cloth to clean the front of the cylinder, where the cylinder rings appear. It will just rub them right off. Don't use it on a blued gun though, as it eats bluing for breakfast. Maybe lunch too if it's hungry...
 
Tip Reminder:

Shooting .38spl in a .357 for instance.

Take a fired .357 case , using a triangle needle file , cut "teeth" in case mouth.
After shooting .38spls, use this case with "teeth" to punch the carbon ring that occurs.

You can take a pc of metal afix to primer area of case to make a "handle" , if you want , bend slightly to fit in chamber to clean that leade area...

Applicable to .44 mag that .44spls are fired from as well...
 
Some people also use electric drills, with a NYLON brush attached to it, to clean those rings out of the chambers. Seems to work decently enough.
 
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