How to break the bond of Acraglas Gel?

[JDBoardman]

Any solvent, paint stripper, etc. that will soften the epoxy bedding will also soften the bonding between the plies in the laminated stock. Your best bet is to mechanically remove the excess epoxy (chisel, dDremel grinder, utility knife, whatever tool(s) you have and are most comfortable using. Once the excess 'glas has been removed, gentle heat (ca. 300 degrees F) until epoxy softens, then wooden or rawhide mallet (the rubber one will melt) to break the forearm free.

The forearm is likely going to be ruined by this process, and its likely that the solid bedding to the barrel has adversely affected the barrel's harmonics causing it to shoot poorly. You may want to simply use the Jasco, accept the forearm is shot, and start over again from scratch.

By the way, it is hard to improve accuracy of rifles with two-part stocks such as the Savage 99 and Ruger MK 1 by bedding the stock. The action's harmonics also need to be tamed as well.

 

[scythefwd]

break the dadgumnded epoxy. be very careful and use a chisle. Can you scratch your barrel.. sure. If you are careful, you may cut the epoxy enough (score it) to get it to snap off when you apply leverage on the stock and barrel.

 

[earplug]

As the barrels tapered, you might try drilling a hole in the forend to attach a slide hammer. Yank the forend off the barrel forward instead of downward.
I'd listen to RC and use heat first.

 

[bgr2014]

Stuck Forearm

If you use any solvents, especially MEK use the proper filters for them, don't wind up like a lot of us old smiths with lung problems. Just heat it up with a heat lamp to about 250- 300F and knock it off hitting on both the front and back so you are rocking it back and forth. The attachment stud can also be what is hanging it up. Good Luck

 

[David Sinko]

I shot the rifle yesterday with a load that has always been a solid, accurate performer. The result was horrendous with groups around 12" at 100 yards with vertical stringing. Most loads now exhibit severe vertical stringing. This forend MUST come off even if it is destroyed in the process. This is becoming an expensive and time consuming lesson, but a lesson well learned.

Dave Sinko

 

[788Ham]

Sounds like the Sawz-all is what's needed then huh? Sorry about your `99, I've got two, I'd be pissed off too! Good luck.

 

[David Sinko]

Update

I was at a gun show over the weekend and saw a stock fitter who I remembered as having previously done beautiful work on a Savage 99 that he once displayed. I explained my unfortunate situation and the various solutions that had been proposed to me by Brownell's and forum members. I explained that the heat gun seemed to be the prevailing opinion and he agreed.

I just clamped the gun into a padded vise and heated up the barrel for what I'd say was less than five minutes. I tapped the forend with a rubber mallet and it popped right off. The problem epoxy was noticeably softened. Thanks to all who recommended this solution. It worked better than I thought it would and I saved my forend. I will proceed more carefully in the future.

I did check the Hope Depot for the JASCO. Nobody there had ever heard of it.

I'm surprised that the tech support at Brownell's recommended the ineffective freezer treatment and not heat.

Dave Sinko

 

[rcmodel]

Heat worked.
Well imagine that!!

rc

 

[Mac's Precision]

Rc

 

[hoghunting]

Heat worked.
Well imagine that!!

And it only took a month to find out!!!!

 

[788Ham]

Dang, here I thought you'd tried my Sawzall trick! Don't know why them folks won't listen rc ! :banghead: