How to clean my J-Frame?

[chickasaw_hunter]

I've been cleaning blued and stainless pistols for half a century now. Never before have I had an Aluminum framed revolver. I now have a 637. I like the little revolver and it shoots better than I do. My gun club has some nifty steel targets and I'm amazed how well I can knock those things down with this little snub nose. I use cast bullets loaded with Unique. That produces some powder residue in and around the frame at the forcing cone. If it were a Model 60 (stainless frame) I'd just break out my stainless steel toothbrush and have at the sooty spots with Hoppe's. I've been reluctant to do that on the aluminum frame for fear I might scratch the finish on the frame. I've just been using a cotton patch and Hoppe's.I have also used some plastic brushes, but they just don't give the same results. I have some similar brass brushes, but I'm still reluctant to use those too. I can't get it clean to the standards I've always been able to do. That means getting all of the soot off of the frame and from around the forcing cone and cylinder face.
So, I've come here looking for some sage advice on the matter.

 

[Lefty38-55]

I'd use those special lead removal cloths, just don't use on blued guns ...

Lead Remover & Polishing Cloth

www.birchwoodcasey.com

 

[Bazoo]

You are correct that you can damage the clear coating that is over the anodizing. I had a 642 that I carried, and sweat will damage the clear coating and cause it to peel. I don't have any advice as to how to clean it without damaging it either. I pretty much cleaned it the best I could and let it be "dirty".

 

[defjon]

637 and 642 will start to look rough with use and carry. I made peace with it. It's a tool made for using.

I saw some folks high polish their alum frame and steel cylinder. Looked great. Just aluminum polish and a lot of free time. The whole thing ended up looking hard chrome to me. It may have been a post here. I've been here forever so I don't know how long ago...

 

[Pat Riot]

Try coating the crud with CLP (I use Break Free) and let it sit awhile then hit it with a stiff nylon brush.
Once you have it clean, wipe it down with a silicone impregnated cloth so when you shoot again it will be easier to clean. If it’s a carry gun wipe it down before shooting it at the range. As soon as you’re finished shooting wipe it down with a silicone cloth to remove most of the carbon. It really helps with the cleaning.
I do this with my blued and stainless revolvers as well as my semiautos and long guns with smooth surfaces. Parkerized and anodized guns don’t get the silicone treatment.

 

[Riomouse911]

Don’t gorilla it with a stainless or brass brush and the finish should last a while. My 642 and 442 aren’t carry guns for me, but like you I try to keep them looking good when I clean after shooting.

@Pat Riot had good advice regarding the silicone cloth wipedown before and after.

As the guys said these won’t stay pristine with a lot of carry due to the coated finish, but you are on the right path taking dome extra care with your S&W.

Stay safe.

 

[cfullgraf]

I do a similar cleaning as @Pat Riot except I’m acceptable with some carbon left on the cylinder face and maybe some left on the frame where the barrel attaches to the frame.

Alot of carbon can be cleaned off with wiping it with a Hoppes soak patch, let sit for a while, then clean it off. But it can several days and numerous cycles to get all the carbon removed.

If you must use a brush, a nylon tooth brush works well. I’d go softer versus stiffer with the bristles. It would take a bit longer to clean but will be less harmful to the gun.

I have an S&W M642, M638, M442 and M437. The M437 and M442 are easier to keep looking good due to the black anodized finish.

 

[J-Bar]

Remove the grips.

Remove the yoke by unscrewing the forward- most screw in the side plate. Disassemble the extractor/ejector rod and thoroughly clean the cylinder, chambers, extractor star, springs, etc. If the S&W was made before the mid-1950s the ejector rod may have right- hand threads; later guns have left hand threads. A vise and wood/leather padding to protect the rod is a good idea.

Remove the sideplate but leave the internals alone. Spray clean the internals in place with aerosol brake parts cleaner. (Wear gloves and eye protection, and do it outside. It's nasty stuff.) Put a drop of oil on a clean artist's brush and lube the internals by "painting" them. Clean the bore in the manner of your choice.

Reassemble.

Have a drink and congratulate yourself on a job well done.

 

[CajunBass]

I just clean mine, a 642-2, like I would any other gun. Hoppes number 9, patches, old toothbrush as needed, brass bore brush once in a while. Rinse, repeat when needed. I didn't know there was supposed to be some secret about it. No problems so far.

 

[Tallball]

Yeah. Be careful and use a soft brush. Someone ruined the finish on my older 642 before I got it. The one I bought new still looks good, because I'm careful with it.

A little bit dirty-looking is better than a little bit scratched, IMHO.

 

[1KPerDay]

What does the manual say?

 

[Dave DeLaurant]

I don't know whether I'm doing it right, but I use Flitz metal polish, Q-tips and an old toothbrush to remove carbon and lead fouling.

I figure if the anodized coating is surviving the stuff spitting out of the barrel-cylinder gap at high pressure, my toothbrush shouldn't hurt it any worse.

 

[westernrover]

It's a junk gun. My advice is to get a 640, but even that comes with a lot of caveats. I'm setting expectations. To clean it, remove the cylinder and yoke from the frame. You'll want a couple of spare yoke retaining screws because they're hollow and break when over-torqued. They also fall out when under-torqued and the cylinder will fall out. This is common to all S&W and not that big of a deal, but because removing the cylinder to clean the gun isn't always practiced, it's worth noting and taking care when it's done more frequently.

The cylinder is steel and can be cleaned with a bronze brush. To clean the chambers, get a 40 cal. brush. Bore brushes are too small and even the chamber brushes I've found to be too small.

My advice is to stop shooting cast lead. It seems to be the filthiest smokeless ammo, probably because of the lube. If you do shoot it, there will be a lot of carbon fouling. Hoppe's #9 is good all-around, but there are better carbon solvents. Get a water-based carbon fouling remover like M-Pro7, Slip 2000, or Breakthrough (not the more common Breakfree CLP, but "Breakthrough" in a lime-green and white bottle). Remove wood stocks or panels before using any solvents.

To clean it, get three or four of the 6" Dewey rods: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1934616296?pid=699917
One for chamber brush, one for bore brush
One for the patch loop is ok, but jags fit tighter.
Choke-up on your grip of the rod so your fingers stop on the muzzle before the tip of the rod hits the recoil shield.
Use 2 3/4" round patches or 2 1/2" square patches.

If you shoot copper, the Boretech Cu+ works well and is carefree.
Use a Hoppes Nylon toothbrush on the forcing cone (bronze one is ok on the cylinder face)
Rinse with non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner (Walmart brand is the only one I still see for $3/can)
Wipe with a microfiber cloth.