How to fix Sling Stud that keeps unscrewing (not stripped) on a Synthetic Stock?

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FROGO207 said:
Before we all go a bit off, a question. When it unscrews all the way out do you see a metal or brass bushing with threads in the hole or do the threads look like a wood screw so that they grip on the plastic. That will guide an answer that will surely work. You could use threadlocker or similar if it threads into a bushing. Otherwise gluing to a plastic part might take some research to find what glues (and stays bonded) to stock plastic.
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This we need to know.
To your point and cpl others that have raised the question.....

Some of the suggestions are better suited for machine screw threads vs wood screw type threads.

For ex,
Using 2 part JB Weld epoxy putty would be one of the worst things to use for machine screw threads for a variety of reasons.

However, it would be a good choice if it's wood screw threads and they protrude to the inside of the hollow stock... and you don't plan to remove it easily.

The glues and loctite stuff is somewhere in between with the thread locker products being best for machine threads.

The Teflon tape is only worth trying on machine screws imo.

The tooth pick idea is only worth trying I'd it's wood screw type threads, imo.
 
Aim1 said:
What's better, Blue Loctite or JB Weld?
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That depends on how you define "better". Blue loctite should fix it and can be undone much more easily should the occasion arise. In my experience anything permanent you do thinking "I'll never want to undo that" will eventually cause you to want to undo it.
 
JB weld is the best solution. Loctite would be okay for a trial as well. PSA- Loctite is sold in plastic bottles, never seen one deteriorated on the store shelf.
 
Most polymer stocks which came from factory with the studs installed will have a machine screw with a threaded ferrule or other backing nut pressed into the stock. It’s very rare to see a simple coarse thread wood screw used by any company to anchor a swivel stud. Whatever stupid thing bubba does with his personal property after purchase, notwithstanding.

Most likely, your swivel stud is anchored into a nut or ferule. Lock-tite is the simplest answer.

If your rifle truly does have a simple wood screw type swivel stud, then either a washer or a slight relief cut to allow the screw to index properly will tighten it down. A toothed lock washer works very nicely for this, but even a simple polymer spacer can work very well. Teflon tape, epoxy, jb weld, or a toothpick in the screw hole work well.

Personally, I’d anchor my own threaded ferule if I had a bubba’d swivel. Doing it right, the second time.
 
danez71 said:
So .... What type of threads are they?
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Finally got a chance to take them apart and look. I reassembled them with blue Loctite but they may still spin a little as I really didnt crank down on them. I felt if I did I would strip them.

The Loctite should work. Even if they spin a little I know they should come undone.

Snapchat-1695910456.jpg

Snapchat-1159277781.jpg
 
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it is a hack, but get some braided copper wire, and thread it in with the bolt. blue Loctite 242 I believe needs metal to metal contact to harden, so - if it is plastic may not work. I've done the copper wire trick on threads that were lightly stripped and it worked, it just makes it tighter. you may also want to see if you can just add a lock washer in there somehow.
 
Toyota used to supply stuff called anerobic thread sealer. It would work on darn near everything. Might be worth checking local dealer parts department.
 
Bubble gum. Or a thin strip of masking tape on the threads might hold and still be easily removeable. But a bit of chewed gum may work too. Many suggestions to try.
 
The Savage looks like it has a NyLok nut. Loc-Tite might help, but replacing the NyLok and then using blue Loc-Tite is better.
 
entropy said:
They are designed for one-time use only. That is, once unscrewed, they are to be replaced.
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Ah. Well, I Loctite'd this one. We'll see if it works or if I have to get another one.
 
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