Sling stud keep turning loose

Status
Not open for further replies.

HankC

Member
Joined
May 8, 2005
Messages
1,390
Location
SW Ohio
My wood stock front sling stud keep coming loose. It is the wood screw type sling stud. Eventually it will damage the screw hole. Is there a good way to lock it in place? Epoxy? I do use sling to carry the rifle and I use the sling stud for bipod.
 
The studs in one of my rifles tend to turn a little as I use the sling as a shooting support but they never turn more than 1/4 turn so it isn't an issue. If yours is turning all the way and loosening a lot I'd epoxy it in before the threads get destroyed. Any standard wood epoxy oughtta work I'd think.
 
Oh ya, forgot to mention...if you use epoxy don't plan on getting those studs back out anytime soon.

If you're concerned about that you can try packing the threads with a mixture of thin CA glue and sawdust, or thin epoxy and sawdust, and then drilling a pilot hole before recutting the threads.

Another method to create new threads that allows you to remove the studs is to pack the hole with match sticks or little strips of wood from the same species, with a dab of wood glue on the tip so the bundle stays put, then you can drill a pilot hole and screw the studs directly into that. Issue with this method is its best if you use strips of the same species of wood so if you don't have scraps laying around it isn't practical. This method also works better with bigger screw holes that allow you to pack at least a few strips into them, so probably not an ideal method for something as small as sling studs.
 
Last edited:
IMHO, wood screw studs should not be used on rifle forearms. They are a quick expedient for the manufacturers where the machine screw and inletted nut should be used. Either epoxy the wood screw in or install the proper machine screw type.
If you epoxy the wood screw in, use some paste wax on the screw when installing it. That should allow it to be removed at a later date if needed.
 
If you epoxy the wood screw in, use some paste wax on the screw when installing it. That should allow it to be removed at a later date if needed.


That sounds like a better solution than what I suggested with sawdust and glue. I've never tried using paste wax as a release agent but if it works then that oughtta be a stronger solution
 
Break off a short piece of a toothpick, no longer than the depth of the hole. Put a dab of wood glue on the toothpick and drop it down into the hole then screw in the stud. The small sliver of wood will make for a tighter fit.
 
Kp321 said:
IMHO, wood screw studs should not be used on rifle forearms. They are a quick expedient for the manufacturers where the machine screw and inletted nut should be used. ...install the proper machine screw type.

This is the correct answer for a permanent fix.
 
The machine screw fix is best, but you have to inlet the screw or bushing in the barrel channel so it doesn't touch the barrel, and in some cases the stock is not thick enough to do that. I have used a thin "speed nut" for such cases, but that is not a real good solution either. Another possible fix is a barrel band with an attached swivel; with that you have to plug the old swivel screw hole.

Jim
 
I've cheated before by using pieces of toothpick, one or two aligned with the screw will tighten the screw, but its not a real solution. On butt-stocks that need repair I have always set the stock in my drill-press, drilled the hole and glued and clamped in a long piece of dowel, then cut and sand flush.
 
The machine screw fix is best, but you have to inlet the screw or bushing in the barrel channel so it doesn't touch the barrel, and in some cases the stock is not thick enough to do that.
That is why I use wood screw type sling stud. I may install a 2nd stud for bipod. I want the bipod stud solid. Or, I wonder if there is a sling swivel that allows free rotation instead of turning the stud loose.

Maybe attach the sling swivel to the stud thru a string!
 
Last edited:
I really don't think you would want a bi-pod mount stud to be free to rotate!!

Every time you picked it up and sat it down the bi-pod would be whopper jawed to the rifle again!

String??
I take it that was a joke??

You 'could' make a free rotating swivel stud by making a steel bushing inletted into the barrel channel.
Then a stud with a C-Clip attaching it to the inside of the bushing in the stock.

I made one like that for a Browning A-5 magazine cap in 1970.
And it still works perfectly today.

rc
 
The stud with a c-ring is a good idea, wish I had thought of that back when.

Jim
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top