Well, they spend money on something that won't do anything to actually increase accuracy. They raise false hopes, and obscure how the weapon actually functions - which has very little to do with relic bolt gun designs with the action mounted in a stock.
If it's that much of a bother, a 29c o ring on the forward lug does ok. Otherwise, the fit between upper and lower has no affect on barrel harmonics, sight picture, or accuracy. Most AR's are 2MOA chrome barreled plinkers, good enough for combat and hunting, as they shoot about an 8" spread at 400 yards. That's targeting an 18" kill zone on a live target.
Accuwedges are just the tip of the iceberg in the shooting publics misconceptions about accuracy, and a good example of how much is done from a dollar per unit benefit view.
If you don't have a 1/4 MOA written guarantee barrel, don't even start with "accuracy" excuses to purchase stuff. Tune handloaded ammo first - white box fodder won't ever achieve any notable accuracy. Get a decent optic and practice, that will tighten groups up 50% on the average. With ammo and optic, you will be shooting much closer to the natural dispersion of the barrel. Tune it next, get the harmonics to the point the muzzle doesn't vibrate when the bullet exits. Eliminate moving the POI because of shooter inconsistency, free float the barrel. Last, use a quality trigger.
In that order - barrel, ammo, optic, furniture, trigger, you get an accurate AR. If working at it backwards was worth it, a sniper stock, free float, and $250 trigger would make a $599 bargain gun shoot like a DMR. And we all know, it won't. Too many still delude themselves, drink the koolaid, and shell out $100's on accessories for a 2MOA barreled gun. It's mostly bling. Might as well get Airsoft.
That's what's wrong with "fixing" the rattle, it does no good, and perpetuates a lot of misinformation.