How to tighten a loose arbor?

[junkman_01]

Hi all,

I've got an ASM 1860 Colt Army revolver that has a loose arbor. Is there any way I can tighten it in the frame? It's been loose since I got this gun around 1980 and it hasn't effected it's shooting any (the barrel to cylinder gap is .005"). How is the arbor attached to the frame? Thanks in advance.

 

[scrat]

remove the hammer there is a pin on the back of the frame use a dowel and punch it a tad more

 

[denster]

The arbor is screwed into the frame and locked in place with a pin. If you look in front of the hammer with it cocked you will see the rear of the arbor and the pin holding it. To unscrew the arbor you need to center drill the retaining pin and drill it out with a drill a few thousandths larger. The arbor can then be unscrewed. Tightening it up generally requires the use of a lathe to repair the old one or the purchase of a new arbor.

 

[Jim K]

Scrat's fix should work or at least be tried first. Denster's suggestion is perhaps the better fix but that is an inexpensive gun and if the job is done professionally it might not be cost effective.

(Just for info, they don't cut the slot in the arbor and then screw it in until it lines up; they screw the arbor in, test fit the barrel, then cut the slot.)

Jim

 

[junkman_01]

Gentlemen,

Thank you all for your replies. I will look at it tomorrow morning and report back. I will try Scrat's suggestion first.

 

[Hellgate]

I am not a gunsmith and don't do squat to fix serious repairs but I have READ (and don't we all believe everything we read on the internet?) that you can drill out the pin, unscrew the arbor, place epoxy (J B Weld?) on the threads, screw the arbor back in and re-pin it in place. Never done it but it just might work if the first plan doesn't work out.

 

[rcflint]

Locktite will work on the threads. Replace the pin with a set screw (#6) after tapping the hole left by the pin you drilled out with a #6 tap drill. (#36 for 6-32) After assembling the arbor replace and wedge the barrel to hold the arbor straight while the locktite sets.

Eventually, if you continue to shoot it with a loose arbor, it will get looser as the "wiggle" will deform the threads.

 

[arcticap]

Does the ASM have a brass or steel frame?
If it has a brass frame, is it worthwhile to attempt to fix it?

 

[BCRider]

Another option to the JB Weld thread filler that won't require dissassembly is to thouroughly clean the threads using brake cleaner or some other excellent degreaser and using compressed air to blow it out the other side and dry the threads. Once you absolutely and definetly know they are dry assemble the front end with the frame, trigger and hammer removed so you can see the back end of the threading. Around the edge put a little water thin CA glue that you can get from many hobby shops. The thin CA will wick into the threads a fair way before it stops and kicks off to form as good a thread lock as the JBWeld. With the rear portion of the thread done dissassemble the front and wick some done int the base of the threading for that end to lock the arbor even more in place.

 

[madcratebuilder]

Locktite will work on the threads. Replace the pin with a set screw (#6) after tapping the hole left by the pin you drilled out with a #6 tap drill. (#36 for 6-32) After assembling the arbor replace and wedge the barrel to hold the arbor straight while the locktite sets.

Eventually, if you continue to shoot it with a loose arbor, it will get looser as the "wiggle" will deform the threads.

IMHO this is the best fix for the average equipped owner. loc-tite stud and bearing mount works well and adding the threaded set screw helps too.

 

[junkman_01]

More very good suggestions, thank you all.

Does the ASM have a brass or steel frame?
If it has a brass frame, is it worthwhile to attempt to fix it?

I should have mentioned that my ASM has a steel frame, and I believe it is worth fixing.

 

[junkman_01]

rcflint wrote; Locktite will work on the threads. Replace the pin with a set screw (#6) after tapping the hole left by the pin you drilled out with a #6 tap drill. (#36 for 6-32) After assembling the arbor replace and wedge the barrel to hold the arbor straight while the locktite sets.

Eventually, if you continue to shoot it with a loose arbor, it will get looser as the "wiggle" will deform the threads.

You guys are the greatest (and smart too!)

I evaluated the situation this morning and decided to use rcflints method quoted above. I deviated slightly and used a 8-32 set screw. My ASM 1860 Colt Army is now fixed and tighter than it ever was. Thank you all.

 

[missuramoss]

Ive got a question about this, as I also have the same problem. Question is, if I go to drill the pin out, do I keep the drill bit going at a straight line, parrallel to the barrel, or does the pin have a slight degree of angle to it? Thanks

 

[junkman_01]

My pin was parallel to the barrel and arbor. I used several drills, and slowly enlarged the hole until I could pull out the last remnants of the pin with a dental pick. The pin intersects the arbor threads at a right angle thereby forming a groove in the threads on the arbor. You need to replace the arbor in the frame to cut the threads for the set screw.

 

[scrat]

you need to post pics

 

[junkman_01]

I should have, but it is now all back together and there is really nothing you can see!

Here is the ASM 1860 Colt Army I just repaired, all put back together....

 

[Hellgate]

Isn't this internet stuff just too cool for words? It's like going out to the gun club and talking to the old timers that have BTDT and love to see some newbies be spared the hard lessons they once learned. Good job everybody!!

 

[Fingers McGee]

Around the edge put a little water thin CA glue that you can get from many hobby shops. The thin CA will wick into the threads a fair way before it stops and kicks off to form as good a thread lock as the JBWeld.

OK, what is CA glue?

Fingers

 

[denster]

CA glue is super glue.

 

[junkman_01]

To me, glue and guns is just not kosher!

 

[Ratdog68]

To me, glue and guns is just not kosher!

Huh? Laminated stocks use epoxy between the layers... scope mounts and such get anchored with Gun-tite.

 

[junkman_01]

My point is this: An arbor should be purely mechanical in it's attachment, not chemical. Do any of your BP reproduction firearms have laminated stocks? Mine do not!

 

[Ratdog68]

As far as I can tell... the ONLY epoxy on any of my repro black powder rigs is on my T/C Cherokee .45 which I had to do a crack repair on after it's maiden shooting. Broke my heart.

Don't have one... but, Traditions' laminate stocked Hawkens would suit my tastes just fine (in addition to, not to replace my conventionally made ones).

 

[junkman_01]

Don't have one... but, Traditions' laminate stocked Hawkens would suit my tastes just fine (in addition to, not to replace my conventionally made ones).

Just a fine point here. The Traditions Hawken with a laminated stock you mentioned would not be considered a 'REPRODUCTION', but rather a 'REPLICA'. To each his own.

 

[junkman_01]

Finally got to the range with the ASM 1860 Army that I repaired in this thread. It shot very well......6 shots, one handed, 7 yards. 25 gr. Goex 3f,#11 caps and .451 RB cast by me. I will admit that this was the best target of the day.