I have been sighting in a 7 rem mag for a buddy. Tikka with a vortex viper 4x16 on it. I can get a decent group for the first 2-3 shots, but then the gun gets hot to the touch so I stop, let it cool so its warm but I could hold onto the barrel all day, but then itll throw the next 3-6 shots into space. Im talking 6-10 inches high. Is something messed up with the scope or whats the deal , do I have to shoot this thing like every half hour 3 shots at a time ?
How warm is too warm? Barrel
- Thread starter isu22andy
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Are the action screws TIGHT?
How is the barrel bedded? Any contact between the barrel and forearm? Wood or glass stock?
Scope properly installed? Meaning... All screws are tight, scope not moving in the rings?
I've had a few rifles from the factory that did the same thing...almost always a bedding issue....barrel touching the forend, someplace. Or the action not properly bedded into the stock. Once it was simply a bad barrel.
How is the barrel bedded? Any contact between the barrel and forearm? Wood or glass stock?
Scope properly installed? Meaning... All screws are tight, scope not moving in the rings?
I've had a few rifles from the factory that did the same thing...almost always a bedding issue....barrel touching the forend, someplace. Or the action not properly bedded into the stock. Once it was simply a bad barrel.
Captcurt
Member
Gotta go with FN on this one. It has all of the symptoms of bad bedding. Once I find a load that suits me in a hunting rifle I worry more about where the first shot from a cold barrel impacts. On a target gun I want all them to be where they should be. I worked up a load for a 300 RUM for a friend. The first three or four shots were on the money. After that they were everywhere. Didn't matter too much. After the owner got pounded a few times he traded it for 25-06.
Zoer
Member
try using a torque wrench and set the screws into the stock at the same measured amount of pound feet pressure ,,, then shoot a group ,, add or subtract and pressure shoot another group and you most likely will be able to see the group pattern change
illinoisburt
Member
Not just the action screws. I have personally witnessed over ten cases of loose base screws from the factory. In every case the shooters were chasing shots exactly like you described. On none of them could you feel any wobble until the scope was out of the rings. Then they could slightly move, but that is all it takes. Best practice with a new rifle is strip, clean, and carefully reassemble. It makes a world of difference.
denton
Member
A torque screwdriver and blue LocTite are your friends.
Make sure the stock is not rubbing the barrel.
Remove the whole base and rings assembly. Check each base screw to ensure that it is not bottoming out. Apply blue LocTite to the threads and torque each base screw to spec. Mount the rings, apply LocTite and torque the mounting screws to spec. Mount the scope, apply LocTite to the threads, and torque them to spec.
Aluminum rings are always suspect. Had a friend who was about to ditch an expensive 308 he had. The problem was that the cross screws had been torqued tight enough that the "heads" had pulled loose from the holes they were in.
Make sure the stock is not rubbing the barrel.
Remove the whole base and rings assembly. Check each base screw to ensure that it is not bottoming out. Apply blue LocTite to the threads and torque each base screw to spec. Mount the rings, apply LocTite and torque the mounting screws to spec. Mount the scope, apply LocTite to the threads, and torque them to spec.
Aluminum rings are always suspect. Had a friend who was about to ditch an expensive 308 he had. The problem was that the cross screws had been torqued tight enough that the "heads" had pulled loose from the holes they were in.
The factory supplied rings on those CAN be pretty good. But the screws that they used to use (I assume they are the same) were very soft and all but impossible to get tight. Lots of guys simply buy aftermarket mounts. That works too, but I paid about $3 to buy 6 replacement screws from a hardware store and found that it made a huge difference. On a rifle that light, with that much recoil good mounts are critical. Also, one of the bases has a pin that fits in a hole in the top of the receiver. I no longer have a Tikka to look at and can't remember for sure, but believe it is the rear. If that isn't installed correctly you'll have problems.
It is pretty hard to mess up getting the action in the stock on those. Either it is right, or it won't go together.
It is pretty hard to mess up getting the action in the stock on those. Either it is right, or it won't go together.
The bottom screw was loose about a turn... fired 2 shots and they were within an inch of eachother, the other 3 were scattered about . This was at 243 yards off a lead sled type rest. Still feel like they should be closer but maybe not . All other screws were tight ... Its a leupold dual dovetail mount and rings.. Disregard bottom target
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243winxb
Member
Under 4" ok. Under 3" normal. 2" or smaller, good luck.
Shoot it at 100 yds.
My wife has a Tikka in 243win. On hot days it does the same thing. First 3 shots are good, next 4-6 not so much. The group will open up pretty dramatically, if not allowed cool almost completely. It takes at least 25mins for the rifle to settle back. This was at about 85-90°. I think it has something to do with barrel profile. We shot it during the winter at about 45° and the group's started opening up at around shot #6. Stopped, let it cool and it was back to good after about 15mins.
ontarget
Member
You must also remember that this is a hunting rifle. It must hold point of aim/point of impact for 1 or 2 shots. It is not a combat rifle that may see a hundred rounds in 10 minutes.
First shot cold barrel consistency is what is important for a hunting rifle, not multiple awesome groups in a single session.
First shot cold barrel consistency is what is important for a hunting rifle, not multiple awesome groups in a single session.
witchhunter
Member
You can use a wet towel laid on the length of the barrel to cool it. Been doing it for 30 years with my custom barreled squirrel rifles. Should cool em right down.
deadin
Member
I once had a European "Stalking" rifle. Very lightweight skinny barrel with a fairly substantial rib. You could get about three consecutive shots out of it before the barrel warped the POI right off of the paper..... Let it cool down and it came right back.
Anybody watched the following??
Anybody watched the following??
coloradokevin
Member
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That's not typical of a Tikka... make sure your scope is tight (properly tight, not just gorilla-muscled on there).
Ignition Override
Member
Can't answer the OP's question.
One solution to the concern is to take the rifle into the car, hold in front of the air conditioner vents for 3-5 min.: "Max. Cool" in the Subaru.
Silly? Who cares, it beats waiting 10-20 min. to cool down in ambient 90 * F. . Use conventional thinking, or do what works.
One solution to the concern is to take the rifle into the car, hold in front of the air conditioner vents for 3-5 min.: "Max. Cool" in the Subaru.
Silly? Who cares, it beats waiting 10-20 min. to cool down in ambient 90 * F. . Use conventional thinking, or do what works.
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CoalTrain49
Member
Can you see heat waves through the scope? That's too warm.
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