I'm looking at a set-up of 6" Barrel SS Finish and Full Shroud...
actually what's a good Barrel length for the GP100 and how much should i expect to pay?
actually what's a good Barrel length for the GP100 and how much should i expect to pay?
how's the RUGER GP100's?
- Thread starter nin1974
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I think the 4" full underlug balances the best.
As far as price goes, they vary wildly it seems. At a brick and mortar gunshop, expect $400-450 for NIB and $300-$450 used (yes, I've seen used for the same price as new). Gunshows "can" be slightly less. Don't be afraid of a good, used specimen. They are very durable and not likely to be worn out by 1 or 2 owners if not abused. Buying one used can save you a good $100+ over new and still provide a gun that you will be giving to your grandkids.
I bought mine NIB at a gunshow about 4.5 years ago for $350.
Chris
As far as price goes, they vary wildly it seems. At a brick and mortar gunshop, expect $400-450 for NIB and $300-$450 used (yes, I've seen used for the same price as new). Gunshows "can" be slightly less. Don't be afraid of a good, used specimen. They are very durable and not likely to be worn out by 1 or 2 owners if not abused. Buying one used can save you a good $100+ over new and still provide a gun that you will be giving to your grandkids.
I bought mine NIB at a gunshow about 4.5 years ago for $350.
Chris
It's a personal thing. I prefer shorter barrels for carry purposes and I can shoot a 4" barrel as easy as a 6". Handle both and see what you like. Also see if the shop owner will let you try on a holster and gun to get a feel for the differences in carry, if you plan to carry it...
Chris
Personally, I prefer the balance of the SHORT SHROUDED 6-incher the best. It gives you more sight radius than the 4-incher, plus has very good balance.
First, there's been tons of comments on these, so I recommend firing up the search engine.
Short form: great gun, tough as nails, easy to work on, good accuracy, trigger needs minor help sometimes (in a cheap, DIY fashion) or just dry-fire the snot out of it (which won't hurt it any). GP100s are often used as 357Mag ammo development mules by Cor-Bon and others - for HOT loads.
The closest equivelent is the S&W L-frames (586/686). Of the two, in my opinion the GP100 is the better gun. The out-of-the-box trigger won't be quite as nice, but the GP was meant to be field-stripped almost without tools and help is just a bit of internal buffing and spring kit ($17) away.
(When you take the grips off with a single screw, you're done with the screwdriver. Buried under one grip panel is a takedown tool for everything else. There's no frame screws to booger up. A lot of people picking between GP and L-Frame get hung up on the usually minor trigger difference, and stop there to go S&W. This is a mistake, in my opinion.)
For personal defense the 4" is fine. It's not half bad for target work either, although there's going to be some small advantages to the 6"ers. Some people like heavier barrels, some lighter...get what you want for the shroud type.
The big advantage to the 6" tubes is for critter work - you can get certain super-hot hunting loads moving at enough velocity to make the minimum power level for legal deer hunting in most states (158grain @ 1,500fps or that sort of horsepower level). This also lets you send 180 or 200grain solids with enough "heat" for boar hunting or *black* bear defense...basically, a 6" barrel GP100 can kill just about anything in the lower 48, unless there's still a few Griz around here
. It's a bit on the light side for the biggest boar or black bear, but still doable.
The balance on the 6" short-shroud guns are amazing - they handle like a 4"er. If that's your thing, definately give one a "feel test".
Short form: great gun, tough as nails, easy to work on, good accuracy, trigger needs minor help sometimes (in a cheap, DIY fashion) or just dry-fire the snot out of it (which won't hurt it any). GP100s are often used as 357Mag ammo development mules by Cor-Bon and others - for HOT loads.
The closest equivelent is the S&W L-frames (586/686). Of the two, in my opinion the GP100 is the better gun. The out-of-the-box trigger won't be quite as nice, but the GP was meant to be field-stripped almost without tools and help is just a bit of internal buffing and spring kit ($17) away.
(When you take the grips off with a single screw, you're done with the screwdriver. Buried under one grip panel is a takedown tool for everything else. There's no frame screws to booger up. A lot of people picking between GP and L-Frame get hung up on the usually minor trigger difference, and stop there to go S&W. This is a mistake, in my opinion.)
For personal defense the 4" is fine. It's not half bad for target work either, although there's going to be some small advantages to the 6"ers. Some people like heavier barrels, some lighter...get what you want for the shroud type.
The big advantage to the 6" tubes is for critter work - you can get certain super-hot hunting loads moving at enough velocity to make the minimum power level for legal deer hunting in most states (158grain @ 1,500fps or that sort of horsepower level). This also lets you send 180 or 200grain solids with enough "heat" for boar hunting or *black* bear defense...basically, a 6" barrel GP100 can kill just about anything in the lower 48, unless there's still a few Griz around here
. It's a bit on the light side for the biggest boar or black bear, but still doable.The balance on the 6" short-shroud guns are amazing - they handle like a 4"er. If that's your thing, definately give one a "feel test".
For strictly target shooting and hunting applications, go with the 6 inch.
For general purpose duty, defense, carry, go with the 4 inch.
My 6 inch GP-100 is the very last 357 Magnum I would ever part with, that should tell you a little about the GP-100.
For general purpose duty, defense, carry, go with the 4 inch.
My 6 inch GP-100 is the very last 357 Magnum I would ever part with, that should tell you a little about the GP-100.
I own quite a few .357 revolvers but consider my GP 100 to be my main "go-to" .357. I have the 4" full lug. When I bought it, my intention was to use it as a carry gun for hunting and any kind of back county activity. I didn't want to risk any scratches or dings in my S&Ws. So, I chose the 4" for ease of carry. The same gun in a 6" looks very sweet to me. If I didn't already own a pile of .357s, I would definitely buy one. However, the barrel length is up to you. We can give you our opinions, but they may not apply to your situation. If you are primarily going to use the gun on the range and as a plinker, I would definitely go with the 6". If you intend to carry it a lot, the 4" might be the way to go; especially if you are considering carrying it concealed. The main problem I have with longer barreled guns is when trying to sit down with the gun holstered. In the truck, the barrel pokes into the seat and tries to pull your belt up to your arm pit. The 6" will give you a little more velocity and a longer sight radius, obviously giving you a little more horsepower and better practical accuracy.
You won't go wrong with the GP100; it is a terrific gun. I might even be so bold as to say that it is state of the art in revolvers and is a significant development over revolvers of old.
You won't go wrong with the GP100; it is a terrific gun. I might even be so bold as to say that it is state of the art in revolvers and is a significant development over revolvers of old.
Of all the revolvers I've owned there's two that I might have tossed in the casket with me; a S&W M19-3, blue, 4", and SS 4" GP-100. I just got the Ruger, traded an unissued "B" barrel M39 Finn even for it. One of my best deals ever. They're great guns.
I want to add my praise to the 6 inch short shroud. Absolutely an awesome revolver. It does balance wonderfully and, although I own a 6 inch with the full shroud, I like the short shroud much better for most all around use.
Ruger has just dumped the 6" short shroud- my favorite but apparently few others agree.
The 4" is very close to the 6" in shootability and velocity with a number of loads. Close enough anyway to make the current generation of jacket bullets expand as expected.
The 4" is very close to the 6" in shootability and velocity with a number of loads. Close enough anyway to make the current generation of jacket bullets expand as expected.
Used to own a 4" GP100 - very good accuracy. Grip fit me very well. Trigger was not in the same class as the Smiths I have owned and a spring kit does not do squat to eliminate creep. The take down is more of a pain in the rear to me. I still have my Smiths but no longer own the GP100.
But if I were in the market today for another 357 I would get another 4" full shroud GP100 - the great accuracy and the feel and balance are first rate. Really cannot go wrong with a good GP100.
But if I were in the market today for another 357 I would get another 4" full shroud GP100 - the great accuracy and the feel and balance are first rate. Really cannot go wrong with a good GP100.
That is TERRIBLE news.
:banghead: That is my favorite model. I have a GP 100 with a 6" short shrouded barrel, and IMO it balances just as well as my 4" GP 100 with the full shroud. I so much wanted to get another GP 100 with 6" short shroud barrel.
Shane,
There is a gun shop in Scottsdale, Arizona that has a NIB 6" stainless short shroud GP100 as well as a blued one. The name of the shop is Bear Arms and they are good people to deal with. Mike
There is a gun shop in Scottsdale, Arizona that has a NIB 6" stainless short shroud GP100 as well as a blued one. The name of the shop is Bear Arms and they are good people to deal with. Mike
<scratches head>
Lesse...6" full shroud, plus a belt grinder...get rid of the "safety novel" on the dang barrel while you're at it....
Lesse...6" full shroud, plus a belt grinder...get rid of the "safety novel" on the dang barrel while you're at it...
.I've had a GP-100 with the 6" barrel, short shroud, since 1987. It is still my "go to" gun. I can shoot this weapon more accurately than I can any other. It feels more natural in my hand even than my beloved Colt's GM.
Sisco
I saw that on Davidson's site too. Would there be an advantage to the 5"? I wonder how this would affect it's long term value?
I'm looking for a good .357 and the GP-100 is close to the top of my list but my #1 choice would be a new 6" Python. Of the Python I'd settle for a 4" and would take either blue or stainless. So far I haven't had any luck finding one.
I saw that on Davidson's site too. Would there be an advantage to the 5"? I wonder how this would affect it's long term value?
I'm looking for a good .357 and the GP-100 is close to the top of my list but my #1 choice would be a new 6" Python. Of the Python I'd settle for a 4" and would take either blue or stainless. So far I haven't had any luck finding one.
I have a SS 4" GP-100 (bought 2002) and an early 90's blue 4" Python. on any given day the GP outshoots the Python using the same ammo.
Bob
Bob
My take on the 5" barrel is this: we discussed the pros and cons of 4" and 6" barrels. The 4" is easier to carry, the 6" gives more velocity and longer sight radius. Can't decide between the two ? How about if we split the difference and make a 5". Shorter than the 6", yet more velocity and longer sighting radius than the 4".
There are a lot of fans of the 5" barrel in a revolver, including some rather famous handgunners of the past.
This is the same argument for the 3" snubby as opposed to a 2" or 4".
There are a lot of fans of the 5" barrel in a revolver, including some rather famous handgunners of the past.
This is the same argument for the 3" snubby as opposed to a 2" or 4".
mec - where did you get the information that Ruger has dropped the 6" short shroud GP? It is still listed on their website, although I know that websites are often out of date. I wanted to get another one someday but didn't want to have to try to find one this soon.
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