Huge cast iron 'C' presses from 60's - 70's

[zxcvbob]

Herters, C&H, Pacific, etc. Has anybody used one? I've seen several go by on eBay and they are calling to me. Looks like they should be about as strong as a Rockchucker, but easier to use because they are open in the front.

I know I gotta be careful about what kind of shellholders presses from that era use...

 

[capbuster]

I started reloading on a used Lyman spartan C type press. It gave me years of great service loading rifle and handgun rounds.I sold it to a local policeman who wanted to get into reloading. If possible, get a C press that uses removable shell holders.

 

[zxcvbob]

I'm watching one right now on eBay made by C&H. (it will match my old C&H Magnum press and my Herter's oil-damped scale.) It takes the new style standard shellholders.

 

[Ringneck16]

I have a Herters Super Model 3. I use mine out of sentimental reasons as it belonged to a good friend of mine. I use an adapter and it is a lot cheaper than the original holdlers.

 

[gunman42782]

I have an old Bear C press and have used it for over 20 years now.

 

[Jim Watson]

It's not the strength of the frame that would bother me, it's the leverage.
RCBS introduced compound leverage and other makes paid royalties or did without as long as the patent ran. I don't think I'd want a simple lever press for anything but pistol calibers or neck sizing; but a couple of friends turned out a lot of ammo on Lyman Spartans.

 

[ReloaderFred]

I'm still using the old Hollywood press that I bought used in 1963 from a college professor. It has compound leverage and is a great old press. I still prefer to prime on it over all my other presses, and it sure beats hand priming for feel and speed.

Hope this helps.

Fred

 

[Chawbaccer]

I have two Pacific presses and a large assortment of rams. CH has replacement rams for modern shell holders. I some times set one up and use, maybe for priming or nocking out spent primers, but I much prefer the Rock Chucker for sizing.

 

[BigJakeJ1s]

Take a look at the Forster Co-Ax or the Redding UltraMag. Both are modern-day C presses available new with support from the factory (accessories, service, replacement parts, etc.)

Andy

 

[pete f]

I have a C&H press from about 1977 and its great for some things, small cases work the best although you can do large rifle cases, but the frame works best with smaller stuff. its almost as fast a progressive but you handle only one case at a time.

 

[eliphalet]

I use a old Lyman Spartan to deprime with, Lee's decapping die stays there.

 

[Slamfire]

It's not the strength of the frame that would bother me, it's the leverage. RCBS introduced compound leverage and other makes paid royalties or did without as long as the patent ran. I don't think I'd want a simple lever press for anything but pistol calibers or neck sizing; but a couple of friends turned out a lot of ammo on Lyman Spartans

You can say that again. I purchased an old Lyman Spar -T press. Essentially the same as a Spartan, but with a Turret. No compound leverage.

I tried small base sizing a 308 case. Downright impossible.

These older presses can be configured to size on the up stroke. Might be a better way to seat primers than on the down stroke.

Later presses are better. A Club bud brought out a 1920's vintage press. Once you see those things, you realize that we have been making progress.

 

[ranger335v]

Slamfire, you are right about the old Spar-T press! It was my first, new in '66, but I realized I need the extra power of compound linkage as soon as I tired a press with it. Finally bought a RC II in '81 but often think that was a mistake too, should have gotten a Coax or UltraMag (the RC tosses about half the spent primers on the floor, I hate that!).

Anyway, I have "home shop" converted the linkage on my Spar-T to make it compound myself, it works much better now. My swinging links look much like those Lee makes, helps keep everything aligned as they move.

I use a little Lee Reloader press with a universal decap die for that job.

 

[Slamfire]

Anyway, I have "home shop" converted the linkage on my Spar-T to make it compound myself, it works much better now. My swinging links look much like those Lee makes, helps keep everything aligned as they move

Interesting, could you post a picture of this?. I like my Spar T, and if I could figure out how to make it compound leverage, it would be more useful.

You know, I think they were making the Spar T press into the 80's!.

 

[ranger335v]

Slam, my digital camera has crapped out and don't plan to get another so, no I can't post a photo. Sorry.

BUT, if you examine a Lee Classic press, like the one in the Anniversary Kit, that's the model for my swinging links.

I used a Lowe's supplied steel bar, 1/4" x 1 1/2", for the links. Determined where I wanted the upper pivots to join the body and measured from there to the original lever connecting pin for the proper length of the planned swinging links. Mine was 4 3/4" between the planned hole centers, the finished links ended up about 6" long.

Cut off the lower part of the press, just below where the ram extends below its hole (used a 4 1/2" grinder and 1/16" cut-off wheel to do that job). Marked, drilled and tapped the upper pivot pin holes for 3/8" x 3/4 long grade 8 bolts through the upper press. Did both holes (clear through the press) in a single pass with a drill press so the holes would be in alignment.

Drilled 3/8" holes in two 8" long sections of the steel bar for the upper pivots (too long, but I cut off the excess lower length later), then marked them for correct length. Removed the links and clamped them together, with the upper holes in alignment, then drilled the lower pivot holes so the finished length would be exactly the same and consistant with the measurement taken before cutting off the lower press. Installed the lever to the links by using a 1/2" x 4" gd. 8 bolt for the "axel".

The new swinging links were then so wobbly that I welded a 2 1/2" long piece of the same bar stock to cross-connect the swinging links in the middle to make them a rigid unit, as does Lee.

Assembled it all and added a couple of spacers to the lower pin (bolt) to keep the lower (lever) block centered in its place. Installed a few washers as needed to align things snuggly and it was done.

Not difficult to do but it took me most of a day. Most of the time was spent trying to figger out all the things I just told you for free and then figgering out how best to do each step so things would be aligned properly when completed.

I did grind and sand the rough welds and edges smooth, then painted the new link red to match the turret. It looks pretty good too.

Oh, yeah. I used my old lathe to cut a narrow groove around the top of the ram so I could use a more modern "snap-ring spring" to hold shell holders in place. I like the spring method a LOT better than the original set-screw.

 

[Slamfire]

Thank you for the time you spend writing this. I will consider the project.

 

[ranger335v]

OH YEAH, I forgot a critical item! You HAVE to make a longer ram, the original is too short to reach from the shell holder to the lever block! BUT, it's easy, just weld the existing ram to the short swinging link that's already pinned to it and you are done. Just make sure it's as straight as possible to insure that it will rise and fall in a straight line with the original path.

Have fun!

 

[Paul "Fitz" Jones]

Hi, I was the distributor for the C-H Co. in the 1970's and sold several of the champion presses that weighed almost a TON I am funning you but it still was heavy. I sold the Auto Champ and $ position H press the most. And had some good sales of the heavy duty "O" press. I still have a brand new one and they will load anything but 50 caliber GI. From C-H I have new case trimmers, dozens of standard shell holders, Caliber changes for all presses 3 or 4 position "H" or Auto Champs. Powder bushings, reloading die sets, decapping shafts etc. I have hundreds of old customers still contacting me. Have a good rock chucker and visited friends in the 50's that lived down "C" street from them when they were in a WW2 quonset hut. Anyone needing heavy duty C-H tools or parts are welcome to contact me.

 

[Tony Gable]

Cas tiron presses

I have a casr iron press. The only markings on it are Model 6 Patent pending.
It was my dads. He got it back in the 60's. Weighs a ton. I use it all of the time. I bought an adapter for it to accept the RCBS shell holders. When he passed away I inherited all of his reloading stuff. The 30/06 dies were Ruhr dies. I think he got those from somebody as they had been modified. I don't us them. Can anyone tell me who made this press? I'm curious. No brand name on it at all.

Thanks,
Tony

 

[THe Dove]

Any pictures of these thangees????

The Dove

 

[TooTaxed]

I have used a Herter's cast iron "C" press for 50-years...have full-length resized huge amounts of large rifle cases, and even swaged bullets at one time...no problems whatsoever. Have also used a smaller cast iron RCBS Jr 2 "O" press for about 25 years...bought it second-hand when I moved and had the Herter press in storage in another state. Both presses are interchangable with shellholders and all standard dies. Set them up side by side and used them with different dies as a "Poor Man's Progressive. Both are simple linkage...for heavy tasks I just lean my weight on the handle. I suppose compound linkages are a good idea...but not worth the cost for me to upgrade, as my simple presses do all I need for them to do.

Those presses do not wear out...they perform as well as when they were new.