I am going to buy a ruger 10/22, have a few model questions.

[GregGry]

Hello and thanks for reading. I have been looking for a accurate .22lr semi auto rifle, and I have decided on the ruger 10/22 due to after market support. Since I can't seem to get exactly what I want off the shelf, I guess I am going to be stuck putting my own together. With all of the 10/22s on the market I am a bit confused. Here is why:

The 10/22s range in price from next to nothing to over 460 out the door. I see the local cabelas is selling ruger 10/22s for 240$ with a 100$ pine ridge rimfire scope. Since my intention is to really buy a 10/22 and put a heavy barrel on it, a different stock (Such as the boyds ss evolution) and a different trigger, can I start out with a base model ruger and do what I want? Or is the receiver better on the more expensive models?

 

[XavierBreath]

My best advice is to purchase a used rifle at a pawn shop. They sell for around $100-125. You are only going to retain the receiver, bolt and trigger group anyway.

These parts are all the same, even the black receivers are simply painted aluminum ones. For a while, Ruger stamped "Carbine" on the carbine receivers and "Rifle" on the Wally Word Specials, but other than that there was no difference.

I've done quite a few of these. Be careful, it's addictive, and you seldom get your money back. It's a heck of a lot of fun making a unique and accurate rifle though. Follow the links at the link I provided for more info.

 

[hksw]

Since my intention is to really buy a 10/22 and put a heavy barrel on it, a different stock (Such as the boyds ss evolution) and a different trigger, can I start out with a base model ruger and do what I want?

Yes. Buy the cheapest RB or RP or CRR you can find or even used. The receivers are all the same.

 

[helz_mcfugly]

I bought 2 ruger 10/22 recievers for $100 that had all internal part intact. I sold one to a friend of mine for $50 and he stuck it back in a factory ruger stock and barrel and it works fine. I used mine to make a krinker Plinker which is just the .22 version of the AK74. but yea you can find these things dirt cheap and just buy after market barrels and stocks that make them ubber accurate and doing a trigger job on one is very easy(even to make them fully auto is easy) not that ive done it . Pawn shops are a great place to shop for them but dont pay more the 150 for a used one, hell they go for $180 brand new a Wally World here in TX.

 

[GregGry]

You guys made my day. I was afraid that the super duper tacticool rifle models some places are pushing around here had something special as far as the receiver goes. Since that doesn't seem to be the case, I will be going out tomorrow to find myself a functional 10/22 new or used, and I am going to go to work. Honestly I was hesitant on doing it myself, but after reading everything they really aren't any more complex when compared to the firearms I have (such as a ar-15). I can't wait to have a functional personalized rifle.

EDIT: I think I am going to look at cabelas tomorrow, I can get a plain jane 10/22 with a pine ridge rimfire scope (scope seems to be around 100$) for something like 240. I need some other items as well, and if I spend 300$ I get a 75$ giftcard I can put towards other purchases. If I buy theirs, I will keep the scope and rings the rifle comes with, and sell the stock/barrel to a friend of mine so he can put refurb his. So really I will probably have under 200$ in it brand new with a rimfire scope and rings.

 

[GregGry]

Also, as far as heavy barrels go, what ones do you like? I have looked at green mountain and numerous others. It seems many people have issues with the brass ejecting properly with the match barrels, is this common?

 

[Savage Shooter]

HAHA he says rolling on the floor laughing... you know why there are so many aftermarket parts for a ruger 10/22... because they need them to hit the broad side of a barn.

Marlin 60 all the way

If however you enjoy working on your toys go for it by all means there are a lot of parts for em you can customize them out the yenyang.

 

[rangerruck]

the new ones truly suck the root... all mostly plastic parts in the action now, plastic trigger guard, terrible finish to the receiver and bbl.
go find a used one.

 

[GregGry]

I have no doubt that a marlin 60 will outshoot the ruger 10/22 out of the box. The marlins just aren't my cup of tea, I want something that will go with the "theme" of my firearm collection. Also I was blown away by how much crap you can buy for a 10/22. It will be nice to have a rifle thats unique to me, and that I can say I put together .

On a side note: I really wish walnut and other normal stocked rifles could win me over. For some reason I have always seen them as similar to woody cars. Granted wood was the only viable material for stocks for the longest time, and they do work. Then again I am going with a wood stock for the 10/22 I want to build, but it will be a laminated stock with grey and black colors. That really doesn't put it in the same class as normal wood stocks.

Also before I get picked on for not liking natural wood stocks, I am a cabinet maker (and anything else that can be made out of wood for a home) by trade, and I do have a healthy love for wood as a material, just not on my firearms.

 

[GregGry]

the new ones truly suck the root... all mostly plastic parts in the action now, plastic trigger guard, terrible finish to the receiver and bbl.
go find a used one.

Is that really the case? How can I tell apart the good used ones vs the ones with plastic? The finish issue isn't an issue for me because I will redo the finish on the receiver and I will be swaping triggers/barrels.

 

[railroader]

Here's some sales from Midway. Butler creek barrel and stock for $134. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=723143 Volquartson match hammer and auto bolt release $30.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=145851
And a volquartson extractor which you will probably need with the tight chambers on match bull barrels. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=363360
I have an Adams & Bennett barrel my self which I like. It's an 18" barrel which is lighter than the Butler creek 20". http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=305251 Mark

 

[Dookie]

Basic rule of thumb, if is says butler creek, don't buy it, same with ramline.

Out of curiosity, what type of rifle is this going to be? Make a military clone, "sniper" rifle, hunting, tactical?

It also might just be cheaper to buy a previously built rifle, you can usually get an ultimate fairly cheap with a lot of trigger and bolt work done. And that way if it has parts you don't want you can sell or trade for what you do want.

 

[XavierBreath]

I urge you to go to Rimfire Central and explore the possibilities for a month or so prior to ordering parts.

Especially if you are a cabinet maker, you may want to fabricate your own stock. Others have done it, and the results are beautiful. Learn to float the barrel, and bed the action. Learn how to polish the trigger group, and the JB Weld trick. Then learn how to pin the firing pin. The results will amaze you, even with the stock barrel.

I personally eschew Butler Creek stuff. Whistle Pig, Volquartsen and Magnum Research barrels are well worth the money.

 

[adam_oz]

I think the new plastic rugers dont have the flush clip release button. The new ones have a button that sticks out in front of the clip.

 

[GregGry]

Basic rule of thumb, if is says butler creek, don't buy it, same with ramline.

Out of curiosity, what type of rifle is this going to be? Make a military clone, "sniper" rifle, hunting, tactical?

It also might just be cheaper to buy a previously built rifle, you can usually get an ultimate fairly cheap with a lot of trigger and bolt work done. And that way if it has parts you don't want you can sell or trade for what you do want.

My goal is for a .22lr rifle thats able to shoot 1 inch groups at 100 yards (assuming a good shooter). If its better then that great.

Really the rifle has to fit me (I don't have huge hands however I find that all thumbhole stocks bind on the big joint of my thumb, except for the boyd SS stock, which fit me like a glove). I realize I could just use a normal stock, however I fell in love with a boyd stock pepper in color. To me the 150$ is worth it since wont have the time until christmas to work on building my own stock.

I urge you to go to Rimfire Central and explore the possibilities for a month or so prior to ordering parts.

Especially if you are a cabinet maker, you may want to fabricate your own stock. Others have done it, and the results are beautiful. Learn to float the barrel, and bed the action. Learn how to polish the trigger group, and the JB Weld trick. Then learn how to pin the firing pin. The results will amaze you, even with the stock barrel.

I personally eschew Butler Creek stuff. Whistle Pig, Volquartsen and Magnum Research barrels are well worth the money.

I have thought of making my own stock, and I am sure I have more then enough tools/knowledge to do just that, however I am lacking the time to do such a thing, especially since it takes me about 3 tries at making something from scratch to get it 100% right. Especially considering I would want to do a laminated stock due to looks.

I wish I had a month to research everything, right now my #1 priority is to find an ideal starting rifle. I am willing to peice it together as I learn more. I don't like buying new firearms that I don't get to use for a while. Also I want it to be up and running as fast as possible. I know I am going to make a mistake somehow/someway. Which is why I am going to try to do as much reading as possible over the next week so I can be prepared.

I am no gunsmith, however I have learned enough through owning firearms and working with lathes/as a machinist for a while, that I know I can get to where I want to be. I might spend more money then I had to, and I may make a mistake. In the end I will have a sense of acomplishment because the rifle will be a reflection of my talents and abilities.

EDIT: Really I am not looking for an absolute top of the line 2K dollar target rifle. However I am prepared to spend as much as 550 initally on the complete rifle (minus scope) to get what I want. Down the road I can always change things out. As long as the rifle feels right, is as accurate as I want, is reasonably reliable, has a smooth trigger, I am fine.

 

[Dookie]

EDIT: Really I am not looking for an absolute top of the line 2K dollar target rifle. However I am prepared to spend as much as 550 initally on the complete rifle (minus scope) to get what I want. Down the road I can always change things out. As long as the rifle feels right, is as accurate as I want, is reasonably reliable, has a smooth trigger, I am fine.

I spent less than that on mine, I waited for sales and bought stuff used.
I have a Majestic Arms alumilite barrel, fajen camo stock stock, complete Rimfire Technologies trigger and bolt along with all the goodies. I guilt it to be a small game hunting rifle, using the HM2.
At 50 yards I get consistent 5/8 groups, very rarely do they go bigger, and quite often they are smaller, but I can shoot a 5/8 ten round group all day, literally. If I wanted to go smaller I could, all I would have to do is swap out the barrel.

You can easily build a sweet shooter for the price you want, just keep looking for used parts.

There is one at a local shop for $600, Kidd trigger $300, custom stock, can't remember the brand but it cost almost $300 to buy, GM fluted barrel, $125, Reworked bolt, $80, Leupold mount $19, Burris z rings $35, all for $600, and it comes with the .002 5 shot 25 yard target.

 

[XavierBreath]

This time of year you can often purchase a deer rifle in a pawn shop with the scope you want, remove the scope and sell the rifle for what you paid.

Use the items I listed as search words at Rimfire Central. Pinning the firing pin really helps eliminate first shot flyers. Joe's trigger group mods will help a lot too.

I concur on the stock I guess. Cabinetmakers become cabinetmakers out of a desire for perfection. Don't be shy about buying an unfinished Fajen stock from Midway and taking a rasp and sandpaper to it to make it fit perfectly.

 

[Dgreno]

tag for later use

 

[CRITGIT]

I built more 1022's than I care to admit.
If you can pick up an older one for under 130.00 do it!
You'll be using the trigger group/guard with some basic mods and of course the receiver.
An Evo or Barracuda stock is a great choice.

A Green Mountain Barrel in 16 or 18" can drive tacks an goes well with the Evo and won't break most banks!
A drop in hammer and or sear, an auto mag release and an auto bolt release will get you started and then some.
Consider an unfinished stock if you're able to finish it yourself.
Beware of the feeding frenzy that permeates the air at RFC or other sites that are over run with vendors.
Here's an idea of some capable of outstanding accuracy.








Good Luck!

CRITGIT

 

[rangerruck]

knowing the diff between a new and an old receiver/ action is not hard. the new ones, the trigger guard is OBVIOUSLY plastic, as you can almost see the bubbles, and the vent holes , that formed in the plastic. Same for the finish on the reciever, it is black, but has the consistency of about 100 grit sandpaper, it is horrible.

 

[hksw]

Honestly I was hesitant on doing it myself, but after reading everything they really aren't any more complex when compared to the firearms I have (such as a ar-15).

The trigger assembly of the stock 10/22 can be a bit challenging at first, a little more complicated than the AR's due mainly to the small area to work in, particularly the disconnect/sear/spring area, but after you do it a few times, it's (like any mechanical device) no big deal.

The best way to get over the now plastic trigger group housing, IMO, is to just pull it all out and drop in a Kid.