I have no idea what to lube?

[Gunsmoker]

So what part of my GP100 needs lube/oil to run smoothly and prolong its life?

Also, is this gun stainless steel or stainless finish?

Does the gun protect aginst my fingerprints and natural hand oils? I never wipe the gun down after using and don't want to cause problems in the future.

 

[DWARREN123]

It's stainless steel. Need to lube any area that rubs or pivots against another part.
Having said that do not use very much and keep lube away from areas like the forcing cone and front of the cylinder where heat and flame can cook it to a hard coating.

 

[Pat Cannon]

If you didn't get a manual, you can download it from Ruger's website.

 

[wad]

Also, is this gun stainless steel or stainless finish?

Stainless steel is a type of metal, not a finish put on the firearm. I have seen stainless revolvers finished in different ways - polished, brushed and bead blasted among them. A stainless steel gun can still rust but is far more resistant to this than guns made from carbon steel. Before stainless steel, revolvers were mostly made out of carbon steel. The bluing was applied to help keep the carbon steel from rusting.


Here is something to make your head spin :
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_steel

 

[Pat Cannon]

So now I'm curious, does anybody know what type of stainless steel the GP100 (and SP101, my other gun) are made of?

 

[Black Snowman]

I remember reading a huge boasting essay by the company that created it for Ruger. It's supposedly a special alloy that's made to be very durable but still easy to machine to reduce costs and prolong tool life. I can't remember how I stumbled on to the article. Apparently it's now a much more common alloy. They developed it in parallel with the Super Redhawk because the barrel was becoming very expensive to produce. Once they developed it they switched most of the other heavily machined SS parts over to it to reduce costs.

Ah, found the article:

http://www.cartech.com/news/wr_strengthphstainless.html

Project 70+® stainless

Well, the one about the alloy. I remember that being included in a larger article about Ruger and the SRH. Oh well. I could just be remembering incorrectly. It's been known to happen.

 

[Sir Aardvark]

oops!

 

[Sir Aardvark]

Here's a quick way to get your revolver very clean and well lubricated too:

Take off the grips.

Using a can of Gunscrubber, completely hose out every opening in the gun - this includes the trigger opening, hammer opening, everywhere! - hose it out until it is dripping.

Blow it out with an air compressor until it is dry.

Completely hose it out again with a can of Breakfree.

Again, blow it out with an air compressor, getting all the excess Breakfree off.

Wipe it down with a gun cloth.

reinstall the grips.

Of course, I like to disassemble the cylinder to get into all the nooks and crannies, but it is not required.

Doing this might even give you a smoother trigger, just by getting all of that accumulated gunk out of the action. Even new guns from the factory have a bunch of crud in them.

 

[RON in PA]

If that was my gun I'd wipe it down with an oily cloth after cleaning. Even stainless steel can rust/corrode if not protected. Also as per Ruger's recommendation put a few drops of oil into the mechanism when the hammer is cocked. The oil will work its way throughout the innards.

I've gotten real lazy in my retirement and use a boresnake and Breakfree CLP for almost all of my cleaning and lubing.

 

[Sistema1927]

When it comes to lubrication, on either wheel guns or bottom feeders, remember this:


Less is more.